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Old 12-13-2012, 07:58 PM   #50056
Mossy-Back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
One thing to consider is that the battery box provides some support to the back of the subframe. Not saying it's essential, but it's something to consider.
That's true. I'm sure I could fabricate a bracket that would keep the support there if I removed the box. I have also thought about putting a lighter-weight box there for tools, extra parts, etc.
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:01 PM   #50057
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
One thing to consider is that the battery box provides some support to the back of the subframe. Not saying it's essential, but it's something to consider.
I'm sure that's correct. However, you can bolt a 1/4-inch steel strap to replace the battery box frame. The straight steel strap will strengthen the subframe even better than the battery box frame, and the subframe will sustain much less punishment after the 10 plus pounds of the battery box and its contents have been removed.



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Old 12-13-2012, 10:02 PM   #50058
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I know some of you are interested in the 2013 Honda CRF250L. Motorcycle.com just posted a comparison between the Honda CRF250L and the Kawaski KLX250S. Here's the video summary of the comparsion.



Here's a link to the associated article at Motorcycle.com.

http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs...ampaign=weekly

My brief summary of their conclusions is the CRF250L wins. Motorcycle.com says the Honda suspension performs well enough compared to the Kawasaki. Therefore, the lower price of the Honda CRF250L, combined with its high tech, fuel injected engine, makes it the winner over the Kawasaki KLX250S.

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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:04 PM   #50059
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingwombat View Post
One thing to consider is that the battery box provides some support to the back of the subframe. Not saying it's essential, but it's something to consider.
that didn't do much to help me.

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Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:58 PM   #50060
Ben99r1
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broken sub frame

Beechum1. Did you ever fix your sub frame? I have found a few stress cracks on my sub frame. I figure they have developed after a crash a few years ago.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:11 PM   #50061
beechum1
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Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
Beechum1. Did you ever fix your sub frame? I have found a few stress cracks on my sub frame. I figure they have developed after a crash a few years ago.
I did. I didn't take pics, but I used 5/8" steel dowel to insert into the frame where it was cracked; on both sides. I drilled ~1/4" holes perpendicular through the frame so that after I inserted the dowel, I could weld the holes of the frame, to the dowels inside the frame. I need to get 3 sets of the gussets cut so I can get them welded up before I do it again somewhere else. I'm going to gussets the F out of the frame all around too. Don't need this happening to me.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:17 PM   #50062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I did. I didn't take pics, but I used 5/8" steel dowel to insert into the frame where it was cracked; on both sides. I drilled ~1/4" holes perpendicular through the frame so that after I inserted the dowel, I could weld the holes of the frame, to the dowels inside the frame. I need to get 3 sets of the gussets cut so I can get them welded up before I do it again somewhere else. I'm going to gussets the F out of the frame all around too. Don't need this happening to me.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=501

Thats not normally a really a big issue for a XR unless aliens morph it into a KLR...


MentalGuru screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 11:38 PM
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:23 PM   #50063
beechum1
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Broken shit means a long hike. I almost had to when my subframe broke. luckily the one of the seat bolts didn't rip through the seat pan, and one of the bolts ont he subframe was resting/digging into the exhaust so that it couldn't fall down lower, and the battery box bracket was holding it from falling completely off....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:37 PM   #50064
MentalGuru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
Broken shit means a long hike. I almost had to when my subframe broke. luckily the one of the seat bolts didn't rip through the seat pan, and one of the bolts ont he subframe was resting/digging into the exhaust so that it couldn't fall down lower, and the battery box bracket was holding it from falling completely off....
Just pay close attention to the direction you run a weld and that your gussets don't centralize force to a newly created weak spot.

I'm sure it was something I would only want to deal with once too.

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Old 12-13-2012, 11:40 PM   #50065
beechum1
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it was the 5th fucking woop. I was feeling good that day too. i was so pissed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:45 AM   #50066
mcma111
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Beech,

Are you going to have some gussets made up? I'd like a set.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:53 AM   #50067
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
it was the 5th fucking woop. I was feeling good that day too. i was so pissed.
Quit riding it like it was a renta-car
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Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:06 AM   #50068
RED CAT
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XRL Cooling!

Rad is money well spent but for cheap, simply instal a low front fender. This allows a much bigger air flow to the head, the hottest part.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:24 AM   #50069
absoluteclint
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post

If anyone is interested, here's a link to the installation thread for my Spud Oil Cooler, which costs less than $100 to fabricate.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781962

Spud
Thanks for documenting and sharing your oil cooler build... Very economical and appears effective as well. I really, really like the clean (almost factory) look of Mark Sutton's cooler. What a work of art! If I can scrape together enough cash I think I'll go that route.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652313
http://suttoncycleworks.com/oilCooler.html

I'm going to monitor the temp this Winter using the cheap Harbor Freight/oil reservoir method and as it get's warmer in the Spring really pay attention to engine temps. During this time I'm also going to (hopefully) take care of some other costly modifications...

My prioritized list goes something like this: new tires, skid plate, suspension adjustment (may not cost anything), oversized tank (probably Clarke 4.7), oil cooler/TTO gauge, and battery relocation (when the need presents itself).

I'm currently anticipating a few Christmas items coming my way : SD Manrack with hog legs, Manrack case saver, heated grips, and Tusk Handguards. Once I get these I'll also be able to install that $30 (steal of a deal... thanks 3Girlsdad) Easton bar that's been starring at me for a couple weeks now!
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:13 AM   #50070
fritzcoinc
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I see we are talking about oil tempratures, again. Here is some preliminary information I would like to share.My bike used alot of oil. I have a routine I go through and check it in the same manner often. The bike is well maintianed and both screens have been cleaned several times. The engine was steadly using more oil. So the research phase begain, that means a cold Lone Star beer and a read of the service manual. Under trouble shooting nothing seem to be amiss till the last item " poor oil pump performance". I have seen this before on my Harley which also has a dry sump system. So, I repalced the oil pump. Low and behold the initial checks showed no oil usage and antother benefit of increasing the oil flow in the engine was decreased oil temprature. Something like a 20 DF reduction.

Tearing down the old pump and performing dimensional inspection per the servicwe manual I found two of the four schavenger pump section lobes near high limit for wear and both were nicked and scratched badly as was the outer ring. The pressure side was not scratched or nicked but three of the four lobes were at mid tolerance indicating some significent wear. My bike has some 33K miles on it.I am the second owner and bought it with 2500 miles on the clock. I have changed oil regularly at around 2500 to 3000 miles.

Apearently the pump was in such bad shape it could not get enough oil out of the engine and this excess oil was getting blasted past the rings and consumed by the combustion process at a steady rate. Also the oil was not moving to the frame where it is cooled. On the pressure side the pump was moving less oil and this usually means higher engine temps. Both contribute to increased oil temp and comsumption.

So my point is this. Adding an oil cooler may be a band aid on a more serious problem. That of a worn oil pump.
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fritzcoinc screwed with this post 12-14-2012 at 07:20 AM
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