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Old 12-14-2012, 02:47 PM   #6256
dalehazelton
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Location: Hudson Valley
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Sorry, didn't read your post well. I'd drain off that extra 150 mils. Also make sure you have no gas in the oil, if you do you should add a real shutoff switch to keep your gas tank from draining down due to the poorly designed vacuum carb setup. I added a 3 or 4 dollar Briggs and Stratton plastic fuel shutoff. Other people change the tank petcock. My system works for me if you remember to use it.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:20 AM   #6257
AleXtz
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Location: Volcanos of Mex. City
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yep it is 32,000 miles on the bike, i think this stud is in real good shape starts fine, electric circuits working well, it just needs to change the clutch plates, boy they are expensive and i drained today the last 150mL lets see if it makes a difference in the oil leaking.

I also noticed some oil in the air filter.

thanks dalehazelton! So changing the fuel petcock solved for you that gasoline smell problem? when i did the carb cleaning couldnt make the gas stop, it was a real pain in the butt
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AleXtz screwed with this post 12-15-2012 at 06:31 AM
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:04 PM   #6258
brailman133
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Any suggestions from anyone on how to vent my tank after removing all smog stuff? Can't keep gas flowing.. Bike is a CA model so the gas cap is sealed and locking... Is it possible to put on a little filter on tube coming out of tank that would feed to smog box?to keep gas flowing.. this is the plug I put on tank I need this to be the vent... Any Ideas?


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Old 12-18-2012, 04:06 AM   #6259
Joelness
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Finding a vented cap seems like a simple option, though I know they are expensive new, perhaps a used one can be found. Good luck.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:26 AM   #6260
Yorkshire Pie Eater
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Location: Huddersfield,England
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Question Air mixture screw

Good evening everyone.Newbie seeking advice.I have a 1996 DR200 with a cold weather starting problem.After reading previous posts,i am going to insert a larger pilot jet into the little rascal.My query concerns the air mixture screw at the front of the carb.Does anyone know how many turns from fully screwed in this item needs.All the manual tells me is to screw it out the same number of times it takes to screw it in,which presupposes it was in correct adjustment to start with.Which it might not be.Any advice welcome.Cheers,Mick.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:32 AM   #6261
brailman133
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Not sure if a regular dr gas cap will fit on the CA model tank...... Does anyone know?


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Old 12-18-2012, 09:58 AM   #6262
straight cut
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[QUOTE=AleXtz;20238677]Here... the screw where oil is comming out is just under the spark plug cable, see if you can take a look


Im sure thats an oil feed to the top end [cam /rockers] of the engine you need to drain the oil and fill it back up with the right amount and fit a new sealing /fiber washer under the bolt head and re tourque down again
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:26 PM   #6263
sethpatricus
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Question Possible starter problem?

Hello I am new to the forum and of course have a question about my '05 dr200 with about 6000 miles on it. I bought it this past January from a local fireman in town for $1900 with 1500 miles on it. I rode it from then until about 4 weeks ago when it started hitting the teens daily in the mornings, I had done regular maintenance to it including oil change, cleaning the air filter and lubing the chain regularly.

Recently I decided to change which oil (from mobil 10w-40 to valvoline 10w-40) I used while performing an oil and filter change and about a week afterwards I noticed that if there was any significant change in rpm when downshifting that there would be a groaning/rattling noise coming from the left side of the engine. It also happens if i take off too quickly from a dead stop and don't have the engine up to a high enough rpm. The odd thing is it becomes less frequent as the bike warms up.

So I am not quite sure if that would be a starter going out, a poor quality oil causing the noise or possibly a slipping clutch. any advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:30 PM   #6264
AleXtz
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thanks a lot straight cut, the screw that you pointed out seems to be more difficult than it appears, will need to remove the whole top in order to take it out

i'll keep informed of the progress, thanks again
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:57 PM   #6265
tony the tiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yorkshire Pie Eater View Post
Good evening everyone.Newbie seeking advice.I have a 1996 DR200 with a cold weather starting problem.After reading previous posts,i am going to insert a larger pilot jet into the little rascal.My query concerns the air mixture screw at the front of the carb.Does anyone know how many turns from fully screwed in this item needs.All the manual tells me is to screw it out the same number of times it takes to screw it in,which presupposes it was in correct adjustment to start with.Which it might not be.Any advice welcome.Cheers,Mick.
Cheers Mick.
I'm thinking it's ~1 1/4 to 2 turns out... I did a quick search of this thread click here and see up to 3 turns from some folks. I've got the manual out in the garage - but don't think I'll head out that way just now.
Hope that helps some.
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:13 AM   #6266
Dorito
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Location: Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dorito View Post
Anyone aware of frame changes from 2003 to 2008? I bought a set of Happy Trail pannier racks, and they don't seem to mounting correctly. While both the bike and the racks are used, neither appear abused enough that far out of skew.


Happy Trail DR200 Pannier Rack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay View Post
There have been no frame changes. Happy Trails racks aren't always perfectly aligned, and it is typical that a little bending is required in order to fit the racks.
Well, "some bending" was an understatement! Time to sandblast and repaint.






For those that like a little welding project, this might be a better route:

Quote:
started out by buying hoops (the “main” oval shaped piece with 4 corner slots) direct from Berg Briggs at backroadsmoto. Berg is the guy who builds all the Wolfman racks, so he’s a good source.
http://bolty.net/2011/05/20/if-they-...-get-creative/
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:05 AM   #6267
JerryH
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Location: Chandler, AZ
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Does anyone know what the load capacity of the DR200 is? I am 6' 220, so I know I'm a little big for it, but I mostly want to use it as a motorized mountain bike. Local only, no highway riding.

On the gas tank, all you have to do is just disconnect the vent hose that went from the tank to the canister, and leave it open on the canister end. It does not need a filter. The gas cap may have some kind of one way valve in it. If you still have venting problems, see if the gas cap can be taken apart. If it can, take it apart and remove anything you find in there. It's usually a rubber/plastic diaphragm, round with a hole in the middle.
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:38 AM   #6268
brailman133
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Thanks Jerry I ended up putting back on the vent hose out of tank and zip tieing it to frame works great


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Old 12-24-2012, 08:20 AM   #6269
Yorkshire Pie Eater
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Laugh Air Screw

Many thanks Tony.2+1,4 turns out seems to have done the trick.Mick
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:56 AM   #6270
JerryH
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It is already on this thread a few times, but Kientech makes a pilot screw for the DR200 that can be turned by hand, without a screwdriver. I have one on my XT225. Makes it easy to adjust with the engine running so you can get it just right without having to count turns, etc.
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