The 'No Pissin and Moanin' DR650 Thread

[Bronco638]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

loosen the little screws holding the boots ... adjust as needed. While doing that ... pull them UP off the fork seal and clean in there ... and check for leaks.

I've done that, they are not twisted but just compressed a little. The DR was completely apart to have the frame powder coated. When I got the bike, it had Dirt Skinz on it and I swapped them for some o.e. gaiters. They just don't seem to sit right, regardless of what I do. I may switch back to the Dirt Skinz since the Superbrace has a nice channel to secure them (the other brace did not).

The seals are good (no leaks) and it's very clean in there (The DR didn't see much action this past riding season).

As I get into the nitty-gritty, I'll let you know what I discover! Thanks for the feedback.

[toddiscdn]

Originally Posted by ADVBedouin

Yo Grifter, good to see you on here still...I've not vsitied this thread until today. Question for you...has anyone made a composite engine gaurd (like KTM, Acerbis, Hyde, etc) for the DR650 yet??

I wish, I had a HYDE on my DRZ and woulda loved one for my DR, I emailed them but they didnt seem to have any interest, kinda blew me off actually....too bad really nice skid plates.

[Bronco638]

One thing I haven't yet asked regarding fork dis-assembly; do I need the special tool as referenced in the shop manual? I think it's for loosening and tightening the fork damper rod bolt. It's illustrated on page 5-47 and referenced on pages 5-50 & 5-51.

There's a Suzuki dealer close enough, to me, that I could run over there to have them remove/install the damper rod bolt. Perhaps it's cheaper to just buy the tools.....

[ER70S-2]

That special tool izn't all that special, lookit the link.

Remember to turn the allen head bolt on the bottom of the fork, the damper tool is for keeping the damper rod from turning, not for turning the damper rod.

Thanks to DisTech:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=91

[planemanx15]

Anybody have the left passenger foot peg they would like to part with? I was cleaning my chain today and it just broke off. Shoot me a PM

[eakins]

Originally Posted by ER70S-2

That special tool izn't all that special, lookit the link.

Remember to turn the allen head bolt on the bottom of the fork, the damper tool is for keeping the damper rod from turning, not for turning the damper rod.

Thanks to DisTech:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=91

that's a nice homemade tool!

a trick i see shops doing is leave the fork cap on (this creates some tension on the fork rod so it's less likely to move) and hit the lower bolt with an air gun. this spins out the bolt faster than the inner rod can spin and the bolt comes out w/ oil too. to re assy, the just use the air gun to put it back in.
of course they've done it enough to have the right touch, but the 1 guy I talked to said it would very hard to strip out the rod unless you just sat there and keep hitting the bolt constantly. He just stops putting it in when it feels tight and he's been doing it for over 30yrs.

procycle has the holding tool for $30 if people don't want to build there own
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#accessories

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by eakins

that's a nice homemade tool!

a trick i see shops doing is leave the fork cap on (this creates some tension on the fork rod so it's less likely to move) and hit the lower bolt with an air gun. this spins out the bolt faster than the inner rod can spin and the bolt comes out w/ oil too. to re assy, the just use the air gun to put it back in.
of course they've done it enough to have the right touch, but the 1 guy I talked to said it would very hard to strip out the rod unless you just sat there and keep hitting the bolt constantly. He just stops putting it in when it feels tight and he's been doing it for over 30yrs.

procycle has the holding tool for $30 if people don't want to build there own
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#accessories

You can also make a damper rod holding tool out of PVC pipe. Just notch it to hold.
Also ... No air tools? (like me) Put allen wrench in place at fork bottom, whack it with a hammer whilst holding damper rod. Breaks loose easy, comes right out. I've even done exactly this without using a holding tool but with top cap in place. Depends how tight it is.

[trailrider383]

You all are making it more complicated than need be. Take a piece of 1" od square tubing that is long enough to reach the top of the damper rod. It fits perfect.

[planemanx15]

Originally Posted by trailrider383

You all are making it more complicated than need be. Take a piece of 1" od square tubing that is long enough to reach the top of the damper rod. It fits perfect.

Exactly what I did, 3 foot in length in a vise to hold it.. Was returned to lowes after use lol

[Bronco638]

Lots of great ideas. I may even have some 1" square tubing in the basement or garage. Thanks!!

[THB]

After a long illness, I finally was able to get out and ride a bit. Put about 150 miles in.

Florence Kelvin Hwy....


Cozy??





Show off....


Need to come back here at sunset...


We need a motorized version....


Mirage...


Hope and change...


Play???


Would love to have walked down this street 50 years ago...

[Adv Grifter]

Thanks for sharing!
Any nice DR friendly Two Track trails heading out into that Desert?
To me, it all looks just like the Mojave ... but without the military, the mines, the trash and the millions of red necks in motor homes.

[THB]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Thanks for sharing!
Any nice DR friendly Two Track trails heading out into that Desert?
To me, it all looks just like the Mojave ... but without the military, the mines, the trash and the millions of red necks in motor homes.

Absolutely, but once up in the hills, it can get nasty. I leave that to the WR. I don't care for bent rims at 70 mph on the highway home.

[ungeheuer]

Originally Posted by el capitan

ahhh ... NOT. You keep all your suspension travel, but the shorter dogbones send your leverage earlier into the progressive range, resulting in a shock that stiffens progressively (and earlier in the travel than with the longer stock dogbones), the more you compress it. In fact you might USE less of your travel for this reason, but it is still there..

Originally Posted by el capitan

@ ungeheuer: Your shock´s travel x ratio of linkage = rear wheel travel. You alter the linkage-leverage, not the shock´s travel or rear wheel travel.

Hmmm... I've been staring at my rear suspension, thinking... and rethinking.

And I do believe you may be right.. and I was.. *cough* ...perhaps ... um..... wrong.

Which makes me wonder.... where's the trade-off??

Why isn't this simple and inexpensive modification the default method of raising the rear end?

[Tech23]

Originally Posted by THB

After a long illness, I finally was able to get out and ride a bit. Put about 150 miles in.

Florence Kelvin Hwy....


Cozy??





Show off....


Need to come back here at sunset...


We need a motorized version....


Mirage...


Hope and change...


Play???


Would love to have walked down this street 50 years ago...

That's near me. Too bad I can't ride off road anymore, looks like good riding. You ever ride back to Tortilla Flat in Apache Junction? Rt 88 is why I decided to convert my DR to a Supermoto. Love that road.

Tech23