Drz400 Thread

[mxbundy]

Originally Posted by jackpiner57

Great day for a ride. The sun was shining and the roads were fairly dry.

What's the story on those bags?

Bundy

[markk53]

Originally Posted by EOD3MC

Does this help?



A friend gave me a pair of them awhile ago. The other is a post type rack for the front wheel (I guess)...
I've normally only use it with the smaller bikes..it's steady but not overly sturdy.

a similar excellent quality one piece stand with similar L pads can be had at Harbor Freight for about $36. I use one on my Zephyr 550 and with the same setting is right for my KLX650. Low buck quality, sometimes a rarity at HF, but in this case it is there.

[Wlfman]

Originally Posted by Wlfman

You dont have to modify them. They make them this way.
http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...and-65620.html

Originally Posted by markk53

a similar excellent quality one piece stand with similar L pads can be had at Harbor Freight for about $36. I use one on my Zephyr 550 and with the same setting is right for my KLX650. Low buck quality, sometimes a rarity at HF, but in this case it is there.

They're $25

[motolab]

Originally Posted by wingam00

I not 100% sure but think I remember reading where someone had their stock petcock leaked through the vacuum line from the stock petcock which filled the cylinder with fuel. The leaking petcock's fuel did go through the carb but through the vacuum line to the cylinder.

So an in-line shut off would not help in this example. I believe that this is rare buts has happen before.

That's pretty unlikely, as there are typically two layers to the diaphragm in a vacuum operated petcock, with the outer edges sandwiched between a spacer. The spacer typically has a drain hole in it, so that if the layer nearest the fuel gets a hole in it, the fuel will exit there. If the layer nearest the intake port gets a hole in it, there will be a vacuum leak, which will cause the engine to either idle high or die (depending on engine temp and the severity of the leak) until the engine dies from fuel starvation as the bowl empties (if the leak in this layer of the diaphragm is severe enough, the petcock will close/not open). The only way for fuel to fill the engine from a diaphragm failure is if both layers fail simultaneously and the drain hole in the spacer is plugged, or if both layers fail simultaneously and so spectacularly that the volume of fuel that leaks past the diaphragms is far greater than can exit the drain hole.

Regards,

Derek

[wingam00]

Originally Posted by motolab

That's pretty unlikely, as there are typically two layers to the diaphragm in a vacuum operated petcock, with the outer edges sandwiched between a spacer. The spacer typically has a drain hole in it, so that if the layer nearest the fuel gets a hole in it, the fuel will exit there. If the layer nearest the intake port gets a hole in it, there will be a vacuum leak, which will cause the engine to either idle high or die (depending on engine temp and the severity of the leak) until the engine dies from fuel starvation as the bowl empties (if the leak in this layer of the diaphragm is severe enough, the petcock will close/not open). The only way for fuel to fill the engine from a diaphragm failure is if both layers fail simultaneously and the drain hole in the spacer is plugged, or if both layers fail simultaneously and so spectacularly that the volume of fuel that leaks past the diaphragms is far greater than can exit the drain hole.

Regards,

Derek

Good explanation Derek but I did have the note that it was "rare".

[XRman]

Originally Posted by 955616846

Hi Westy,

The engine with the new trans went back into the bike last weekend... It has had some dyno time over the weekend to dial in safe mixtures and a couple of hundred clicks on the road before going back to the dyno for final tuning and power runs... plus a couple more hours on the road. I am happy with it so far, but it remains to be seen how I get along with it in soft conditions.

The rationale behind the Nova for me was getting a sane 5th for highway cruising while still retaining the crawling ability of an acceptably low first and I am kind of surprised at your 15/44 gearing with this transmission and especially with a stock engine...

The gearing choices that I have made are 15/47 and 15/49 and the latter is currently fitted. Even with the 15/49 it is still pulling (in a common frame of reference for others) a slightly taller fifth than a stock transmission with 16/44 which is about as tall as I'd ever suggest going with a stock engine... that is about the point where, IMO, the bike starts to become over geared.

Hi Guys,

My ACT gear set arrived last week. Good service from the company.

After the Christmas break th egears are going in, so then I will comment about how it goes.

I am using 15/44 sprockets with the standard transmission 5th is about where I want it for my riding but 1st is too high for tight stuff. Dirk from ACT suggested I try 14/47 with the new gears, so I will try that and see how it feels, but I will try 14/44 first because I hate changing sprockets!

[955616846]

Originally Posted by XRman

Hi Guys,

My ACT gear set arrived last week. Good service from the company.

After the Christmas break th egears are going in, so then I will comment about how it goes.

I am using 15/44 sprockets with the standard transmission 5th is about where I want it for my riding but 1st is too high for tight stuff. Dirk from ACT suggested I try 14/47 with the new gears, so I will try that and see how it feels, but I will try 14/44 first because I hate changing sprockets!

It is good to see someone else putting their money where their mouth is.

I reckon that you'll definitely want 14/47 or maybe even lower. The ACT has a very tall fifth - roughly one tooth on the counter shaft sprocket when compared to the Nova. On paper at least, the ACT gear set seems to be specifically designed to squeeze every last bit out of the engines torque curve (assuming an E or similar build) with 14/47 gears...

[MJS]

Originally Posted by motolab

That's pretty unlikely, as there are typically two layers to the diaphragm in a vacuum operated petcock, with the outer edges sandwiched between a spacer. The spacer typically has a drain hole in it, so that if the layer nearest the fuel gets a hole in it, the fuel will exit there. If the layer nearest the intake port gets a hole in it, there will be a vacuum leak, which will cause the engine to either idle high or die (depending on engine temp and the severity of the leak) until the engine dies from fuel starvation as the bowl empties (if the leak in this layer of the diaphragm is severe enough, the petcock will close/not open). The only way for fuel to fill the engine from a diaphragm failure is if both layers fail simultaneously and the drain hole in the spacer is plugged, or if both layers fail simultaneously and so spectacularly that the volume of fuel that leaks past the diaphragms is far greater than can exit the drain hole.

Regards,

Derek

Had the vacuum diaphragm go bad in my DRZ and fill the engine with fuel. It is only a single diaphragm and any leakage goes directly into the intake manifold through the vacuum port downstream of the carb. Gravity will take it straight into the cylinder.

[Leoffensive]

Hello guys. I just pulled trigger on a new 2012. Pick it up on Monday.



It's my first bike ever

[jordan p]

Originally Posted by Leoffensive

Hello guys. I just pulled trigger on a new 2012. Pick it up on Monday.



It's my first bike ever

Congrats! I picked my 12 up a few weeks ago...my 2nd DRZ400..should never had sold the first one!

[Leoffensive]

Originally Posted by jordan p

Congrats! I picked my 12 up a few weeks ago...my 2nd DRZ400..should never had sold the first one!

thanks.

Ya im a little tipsy.

kinda celebrating.

[buls4evr]

Originally Posted by MJS

Had the vacuum diaphragm go bad in my DRZ and fill the engine with fuel. It is only a single diaphragm and any leakage goes directly into the intake manifold through the vacuum port downstream of the carb. Gravity will take it straight into the cylinder.

Yes this... And it is not so rare once the bike gets old with ethanol fuel. We also had this happen in an old Suzuki Bandit which belonged to a friend with the same system.Manual petcock is the only really safe system IMO.Basically that big gas tank tries to unload its fuel to the lowest point it can....your crankcase and garage floor.

[AtlasExp]

I am looking for a list of tools for DRZ400s 05. Any info or links? Thanks in advance to my friends DRZiers!

[focallength]

Originally Posted by AtlasExp

I am looking for a list of tools for DRZ400s 05. Any info or links? Thanks in advance to my friends DRZiers!

8, 10, 12 and 14mm sockets and whrenches, pliers, allen wrenches,(thandle, you only need a couple) adjustable wrench. A 24mm iirc socket for the cs nut.

If you want to completly tear apart the bike, youll only need a couple of more sockets, one for the swing arm nut, a breaker bar, a torque wrench, thats about it.

I typically use only 1 or 2 different sockets (10 and 12mm, a 14 for the oils drain bolt, a 8mm here and there. And one size allen wrenc ( i dont recall the size) anything else i use for one specific bolt, so i sually have to fish around the bottom of the tool box for the big socket or the allen wrench.

If you do your own tire changes, get 2 long tire spoons.

Trail bag.

12,14 mm wrench
8,10,12, 14 mm sockets
Small drive
Sm. Flat and phillipsmscrew driver (which you dont need if you swap out the 2-3 phillips screws, only used for the clamps

Metal putty, some zip ties, some electrical tape an extra fuse, two tire irons, a length of chain and a chain breaker
Spare master link clips, needle nose pliers.
Adjustable wrench (sm make sure it goes to 24mm, this is for the front and rear wheel bolts)
Youl pretty much use the same 2-3 sockets over and over, so buy a good drive, a good 8,10,12 and 14mm socket. Everything else will be used ocassionally.

Im sure theres 1 or 2 things i missed, but theyre specialty items, used once in a blue moon.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by MJS

Had the vacuum diaphragm go bad in my DRZ and fill the engine with fuel. It is only a single diaphragm and any leakage goes directly into the intake manifold through the vacuum port downstream of the carb. Gravity will take it straight into the cylinder.

I've never seen a single layer petcock diaphragm. Have a look at http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/922.../#entry9626847. Are you sure the diaphragm's plunger o-ring or the multi-hole rubber selector gasket did not go bad in combination with a leaky float valve?

Regards,

Derek