Removing Front Shock 2010 GSA?

viz · 12-16-2012, 01:26 AM

This one is driving me nuts...

I am reasonably good as a spannerhead but I cannot get the front shock out of my (non ESA) 2010 GSA - I am replacing them with Wilburs. Rear went in fine, no probs. I cannot get the front shock low enough to pull it out - I have tried compressing the spring and can nearly get it there, but the compressors I am using are for cars springs etc and only work up to a point. I have even dropped the front forks to see if the fork bottoms will drop some more, but to no avail.

Bottom is undone, and the base of the shock is sitting in the bottom of the telelever, as far down as it can go. I have about 5 mm of the upper shaft thread still sitting inside the steering head mount. It is almost like the shaft is too long, but it musta got in there when it was built! Alternator cover is off, front crash bar brace is still on - and I am starting to think that is where the shocky has to come out...

Any hints?

TIA

viz

IJM · 12-16-2012, 02:13 AM

Not sure if it's the same on the 2010, but on my 2004 there was a brake line support on the right hand side that I loosened - located near the rad - top right. From there the line went down to the forks and looked like it would have stopped the forks from fully extending.

Also make sure you have the front tire off the ground so that forks can fully extend.

jdub · 12-16-2012, 06:06 AM

Viz - Definitely a challenging event on my '07 GSA as well, and installing/removing my Elka front shock adds to the adventure as the top stud is even a couple of millimeters longer than on the stock shock.

I didn't have to resort to using a spring compressor, fiddle with the fork legs or loosen any lines, but I did pull the alternator cover and the upper horizontal crash bar for all possible clearance. As IJM mentioned, ensuring that the forks are fully extended (A-arm as low as possible) with the bike on the centerstand and a floor jack under the engine so the rear tire is touching the ground, with someone steadying the bike I'm able to wrestle (no other word for it) the shock body downward enough to get the stud clear of the hole and then the shock will come free of the bike. Of course, going back in is almost as fun....

Good luck!

viz · 12-16-2012, 01:04 PM

I let youz all now how it goes - a nights sleep has certainly helped to put a fresh perspective on it. Methinks the secret is the crashbar...

viz

The Other JC · 12-16-2012, 01:54 PM

I must say this is not an area I remember having issues with.

As has been mentioned, make sure the front shocks are fully extended, and the bottom of the shock is dropped, the shock then comes out top first pulling towards you. Maybe a little bit of fiddling to maneuver past the other crap in there. I do not think you will get it out bottom first - I could be wrong!

Same for install, bottom in first, to pivot the top into place. Do up the bottom bolt and gently put weight onto the front to get the top of the shock back through the top hole.

My Hyperpro went back in a lot easier due to the bottom end not being as fat as the original.

Good luck.

Z50Pilot · 12-16-2012, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdub

viz - ..., but i did pull the alternator cover and the upper horizontal crash bar for all possible clearance. ... Of course, going back in is almost as fun....

good luck!

+1

Schu · 12-16-2012, 03:09 PM

My 2011 had a strap attached to the top. Hard to see. Harder to get released.

viz · 12-17-2012, 01:18 AM

Success!

Move (not remove) the front crash-bar brace a bit and the shock has room to come down. Four screws two bolts all done.

I was pushing too hard (and why wouldn't you with shiny new christmas presents to install...), too fatigued after a busy week. Couldn't see the sheep for all the wool

Thanks for the hints

viz

IJM · 12-17-2012, 02:23 AM

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

dirtsurfer · 12-17-2012, 02:30 AM

Dig that tyre out while you're pottering around

Reaver · 12-17-2012, 02:51 AM

My two cents.......

Front or rear:

On ESA models select the lowest positon first (one up,no bags) and the other no frills shocks remove all preload before attempting removal. Gives you that extra bit.......

Osmin C · 12-17-2012, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaver

My two cents.......

Front or rear:

On ESA models select the lowest positon first (one up,no bags) and the other no frills shocks remove all preload before attempting removal. Gives you that extra bit.......

This is clever and simple yet I bet that most people are not thinking to do this. Great tip!

Reaver · 12-17-2012, 02:12 PM

Great! Glad to help. Been there, struggled with that.

Does this mean I'm forgiven for trolling? My GS's belong in the Parallel Universe.

viz · 12-17-2012, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtsurfer

Dig that tyre out while you're pottering around

Come and get it any time Max - although if that does not work I think I am up that way New Year... You must be wearing the old one out by now?

voz

12-16-2012, 01:26 AM	#1
viz ^OP I Ride Ms Piggy Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Sydney, Oz Oddometer: 1,801	Removing Front Shock 2010 GSA? This one is driving me nuts... I am reasonably good as a spannerhead but I cannot get the front shock out of my (non ESA) 2010 GSA - I am replacing them with Wilburs. Rear went in fine, no probs. I cannot get the front shock low enough to pull it out - I have tried compressing the spring and can nearly get it there, but the compressors I am using are for cars springs etc and only work up to a point. I have even dropped the front forks to see if the fork bottoms will drop some more, but to no avail. Bottom is undone, and the base of the shock is sitting in the bottom of the telelever, as far down as it can go. I have about 5 mm of the upper shaft thread still sitting inside the steering head mount. It is almost like the shaft is too long, but it musta got in there when it was built! Alternator cover is off, front crash bar brace is still on - and I am starting to think that is where the shocky has to come out... Any hints? TIA viz __________________ Pig In The City - 2010 BMW R1200 GSA Adventure Webmaster BMW Touring Club of NSW

12-16-2012, 02:13 AM	#2
IJM Hinderant Backbenderz Joined: Nov 2006 Location: The city above T.O Oddometer: 191	Not sure if it's the same on the 2010, but on my 2004 there was a brake line support on the right hand side that I loosened - located near the rad - top right. From there the line went down to the forks and looked like it would have stopped the forks from fully extending. Also make sure you have the front tire off the ground so that forks can fully extend. __________________ Horizontally opposed, Vertically challenged

12-16-2012, 06:06 AM	#3
jdub Dawg bytes reel gud Joined: Jan 2004 Location: S. Central PA Oddometer: 1,403	Viz - Definitely a challenging event on my '07 GSA as well, and installing/removing my Elka front shock adds to the adventure as the top stud is even a couple of millimeters longer than on the stock shock. I didn't have to resort to using a spring compressor, fiddle with the fork legs or loosen any lines, but I did pull the alternator cover and the upper horizontal crash bar for all possible clearance. As IJM mentioned, ensuring that the forks are fully extended (A-arm as low as possible) with the bike on the centerstand and a floor jack under the engine so the rear tire is touching the ground, with someone steadying the bike I'm able to wrestle (no other word for it) the shock body downward enough to get the stud clear of the hole and then the shock will come free of the bike. Of course, going back in is almost as fun.... Good luck! __________________ '07 R1200GS Adv. & '00 DRZ400S Step-by-Step R1200GSA Gearbox Removal and Clutch Spline Lube Process Another 100,000 Mile R1200GS Adv.

12-16-2012, 01:04 PM	#4
viz ^OP I Ride Ms Piggy Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Sydney, Oz Oddometer: 1,801	I let youz all now how it goes - a nights sleep has certainly helped to put a fresh perspective on it. Methinks the secret is the crashbar... viz __________________ Pig In The City - 2010 BMW R1200 GSA Adventure Webmaster BMW Touring Club of NSW

12-16-2012, 01:54 PM	#5
The Other JC 4 year lurker.. Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Melbourne, Australia Oddometer: 160	My 2c I must say this is not an area I remember having issues with. As has been mentioned, make sure the front shocks are fully extended, and the bottom of the shock is dropped, the shock then comes out top first pulling towards you. Maybe a little bit of fiddling to maneuver past the other crap in there. I do not think you will get it out bottom first - I could be wrong! Same for install, bottom in first, to pivot the top into place. Do up the bottom bolt and gently put weight onto the front to get the top of the shock back through the top hole. My Hyperpro went back in a lot easier due to the bottom end not being as fat as the original. Good luck. __________________ BMW 2007 R1200GS Adventure R1200GS Adv oil leak - replace gearbox input seal, install Siebenrock disc R1200GS Adv - Remove petrol tank, install Hyperpro shocks

12-16-2012, 03:09 PM	#7
Schu Adventurer Joined: Dec 2010 Location: Nor Cal Oddometer: 31	My 2011 had a strap attached to the top. Hard to see. Harder to get released.

12-17-2012, 01:18 AM	#8
viz ^OP I Ride Ms Piggy Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Sydney, Oz Oddometer: 1,801	Success! Move (not remove) the front crash-bar brace a bit and the shock has room to come down. Four screws two bolts all done. I was pushing too hard (and why wouldn't you with shiny new christmas presents to install...), too fatigued after a busy week. Couldn't see the sheep for all the wool Thanks for the hints viz __________________ Pig In The City - 2010 BMW R1200 GSA Adventure Webmaster BMW Touring Club of NSW

12-17-2012, 02:23 AM	#9
IJM Hinderant Backbenderz Joined: Nov 2006 Location: The city above T.O Oddometer: 191	Good on ya Glad to hear you got it sorted out. __________________ Horizontally opposed, Vertically challenged

12-17-2012, 02:30 AM	#10
dirtsurfer Challenged Adventurer Joined: May 2006 Location: between the bings Oddometer: 1,385	Dig that tyre out while you're pottering around __________________ ex X phile Avoid the Gavel, travel by gravel

12-17-2012, 02:51 AM	#11
Reaver Amusing Myself Again Joined: Aug 2008 Location: In Transition, Ontario Oddometer: 611	My two cents....... Front or rear: On ESA models select the lowest positon first (one up,no bags) and the other no frills shocks remove all preload before attempting removal. Gives you that extra bit....... __________________ Life is a rollercoaster........and I'm not strapped in!

12-17-2012, 02:12 PM	#13
Reaver Amusing Myself Again Joined: Aug 2008 Location: In Transition, Ontario Oddometer: 611	Great! Glad to help. Been there, struggled with that. Does this mean I'm forgiven for trolling? My GS's belong in the Parallel Universe. __________________ Life is a rollercoaster........and I'm not strapped in! Reaver screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 06:12 AM

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