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Old 09-16-2012, 09:57 AM   #76
Fab418 OP
Pig ridin'
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Saguenay, Quebec, Canada
Oddometer: 174
Skid plate in place:

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Old 12-21-2012, 07:54 AM   #77
Bobby Ginger
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Very impressive, lots of heart put into this one.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:41 AM   #78
kellymac530
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Fabrice,
If I have not told you already....you are an inspiration.
I will NOT blame you if my build goes south at some point, but I will give you props for inspiring it and giving me many, if not most of my starting points.

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Old 12-21-2012, 09:29 AM   #79
Fab418 OP
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Location: Saguenay, Quebec, Canada
Oddometer: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
Fabrice,
If I have not told you already....you are an inspiration.
I will NOT blame you if my build goes south at some point, but I will give you props for inspiring it and giving me many, if not most of my starting points.

Thank you kellymac, At the time I started this conversion the info on the subject was hard to find so I'm glad if this thread can help a few to get started on their own build. As I told you in pm, I will continue posting here about how the parts inspection will turn out and report as the bike gets more km's on it (so far 4000km since the swap) as I intend to ride it a lot more next year.

Feel free to share a link to your build anytime.
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:34 AM   #80
kellymac530
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I just wanted to post in this thread so I can find it easier....great job.

I do have one question, I see you used the bearing mount for the telelever arm by cutting off the bearing end. I then see you ran up some 1" pipe and welded it to the rear frame stats. I am missing something I guess, but the rear stays are steel and the bearing ends for the Telelever are aluminum...did something change in there? Or is there a steel insert inside of the aluminum end that you used to weld the 1" steel support tubes to?
Or wilder yet are the upright tubes aluminum and you have developed some cool way to weld steel to aluminum?

If anyone is still watching, I am thinking of welding in an aluminum CR neck much the same as Fabrice did, but I am thinking of taking the Telelever arm and modifying it some, swinging upward and welding it to the bottom of my CR neck and then bracing it to the front frame on the bottom.

Obviously this will take some playing with, but I think that will help transfer some of the rearward force that some of you were concerned with right back to the original point that the Telelever would have recevied the braking or forward impact force {meaning hitting a bump and pushing backwards on the steering neck}.

This should also help with side forces as it widens the base mounting point of the bottom of the neck.

Engineers or serious fabbers, what do you think?
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:57 PM   #81
MrPulldown
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More pictures of the painter please.
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:09 PM   #82
advNZer?
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where/what are the new headlights from?
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #83
DRjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
More pictures of the painter please.
What he said
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:05 AM   #84
Fab418 OP
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Saguenay, Quebec, Canada
Oddometer: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by advNZer? View Post
where/what are the new headlights from?
Ebay, CBR 400. With xenon kit which I don't recommend. I would rather go with standard high output bulbs. Xenon messes up the RID and the light pattern is not great with the CBR400 housing.
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http://www.fabricetremblay.ca
My HPF: 21 inch-mx forks R11GS conversion
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:06 AM   #85
Fab418 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
More pictures of the painter please.
Unfortunately she's camera shy.
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TCAT traveler: If ever in need near Saguenay, Quebec; have tools, will help. PM me.
http://www.fabricetremblay.ca
My HPF: 21 inch-mx forks R11GS conversion
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:09 AM   #86
Fab418 OP
Pig ridin'
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Saguenay, Quebec, Canada
Oddometer: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
I do have one question, I see you used the bearing mount for the telelever arm by cutting off the bearing end. I then see you ran up some 1" pipe and welded it to the rear frame stats. I am missing something I guess, but the rear stays are steel and the bearing ends for the Telelever are aluminum...did something change in there? Or is there a steel insert inside of the aluminum end that you used to weld the 1" steel support tubes to?
Or wilder yet are the upright tubes aluminum and you have developed some cool way to weld steel to aluminum?
94 GS has a steel telelever. Simple as that. But I wish I'd weld steel to alu.
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Fabrice
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http://www.fabricetremblay.ca
My HPF: 21 inch-mx forks R11GS conversion
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:36 PM   #87
kellymac530
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Got it.
It sure looked like you were cutting an alumnium A-arm in the pic on the band saw. My bad though.

Still lovin the build.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:44 PM   #88
sportbiker929
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Location: 94561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
More pictures of the painter please.
said in my best trading places jail cell voice " YEAH"
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:23 PM   #89
Ricardo Kuhn
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No offense but personally I be scare shitless of riding that bike, that "Mast" is a aluminum casting, not even close to be strong enough to hold such a load on his own, not even mentioning the way the new steer tube is attach to it (as nice of a weld you as it is) is just to weak of a junction.


I just hope you don't get really hurt when the fork comes apart..
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:09 PM   #90
Fab418 OP
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Saguenay, Quebec, Canada
Oddometer: 174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardo Kuhn View Post
that "Mast" is a aluminum casting,
Ok. First, all aluminum is cast. You cannot not cast aluminum. It's how it's put into solid state . Billet is made from cast alloy. Different treatments are available to strengthen it. Cast alloy IS weldable.

Now a quick update on how things are holding up after 6000km of uncompromised ridding.

1-No weld shows any visible sign of failure (cracks or deformation).

2-There's enough criss-crossed welds to provide a gradual faillure if it ever happens.

3-The small 10mm bolt that sits below the bunch of electrical connectors and on the top rear end of the front frame is straight as it ever was. Remember that this bolt is the one that is the most likely item to possibly fail IMO.

Sure, there is always a risk in doing a thing like this but I knew this already and made calulations and got help from other people along the way.

Bottom line: Me and the bike are still in one piece and having a boatload of fun along the way. Please post when you have facts to share not when you're desperate because people stopped looking at your "the end is near" sign and you feel you'd come here to get a new audience. PLEASE.
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TCAT traveler: If ever in need near Saguenay, Quebec; have tools, will help. PM me.
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My HPF: 21 inch-mx forks R11GS conversion
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