Heated Jacket? 65 or 90 Watt?

[StuartV]

Originally Posted by jgas

I'll have layers and a heavy riding jacket over the vest to keep the heat in. Often I overheat rather than get too cold whenever I hit the slow trails.

One of the benefits of good heated gear is that you don't have to wear all those extra layers. That pays off in 2 ways. One, you're more comfortable riding when you don't feel like the Michelin man. And two, you turn the liner up to Hi when you're toodling along "getting there". Then, when you hit the singletrack and, normally, you would take off layers to keep from getting hot, you just turn the heated liner down or off. No need to remove layers and no need to overheat when you get to the slow, tight stuff.

It seems that many riders approach cold weather riding by layering up and then, when that's still not enough, they add the heated gear. I think that approach is backwards. I put on my summer riding gear. If it's too cold for that, then the next thing I add is my heated liner(s). If it's still too cold, with the heated gear at max, THEN I think about adding long johns and/or fleece or whatever.

I hate feeling like a stuffed sausage casing when I'm riding.

[blsi]

I have the 65W jacket liner and gloves running off the same controller - which isn't the best setup. The gloves run really hot when I crank up the controller enough to make the jacket warm enough. Next time I'll go for the 90w jacket liner.

I recently added a pants liner and socks and another single controller. I also now have a built in controller on the 'strom.

So any ideas on what is the best way to set things up when using all four items? (keeping an eye on the voltmeter of course...)

[dman]

Originally Posted by StuartV

It seems that many riders approach cold weather riding by layering up and then, when that's still not enough, they add the heated gear. I think that approach is backwards. I put on my summer riding gear. If it's too cold for that, then the next thing I add is my heated liner(s). If it's still too cold, with the heated gear at max, THEN I think about adding long johns and/or fleece or whatever.

That's pretty much what I do but I see by your profile that you're also in Northern California. Most places we can get to warmer climes pretty quickly and it's not that cold. anyway. I'd hate to be stuck somewhere REALLY cold with a heated gear failure and no backup. I keep a direct battery connection available to bypass my controller if it fails.

-dman

[KansasKawboy]

Originally Posted by rycomm

I recently got a Firstgear heated jacket. I've been putting this off thinking I could get by with more layers. I gave in but I've been second guessing my decision after doing some post purchase research.
I got the 90 watt jacket, thinking it would pull less current if I turned it down. I'm sure it would be fine on the V-Strom at just about anything over idle. It would probably be too much for the DRZ or TU. Should I have gotten the 65 watt version. It is still new, and I can exchange it straight out from my local dealer.
I also got the single zone controller. Everything I've read since I bought it says the dual zone is much better. I don't have any heated gloves or pants, and haven't planned on adding any. But, heated gear may be the best investment I never knew I needed. This too is still in the package, and can be exchanged for the dual zone for the difference in price ($30, I think).
It's starting to look a lot like winter here, and should do the exchange soon so I can get some use out of the new gear.

Thanks,
Ryan

Ryan I have the dual controler because I have a jacket, pants, gloves, and socks. I control the top half with one side and the bottom half with the other.

You can run the jacket on your TU, I run all of my stuff on mine.
I have this power point on the handle bars.


and bought this handy plug in volt meter at wally world


I mount the volt meter on my tank bag


the voltage drops when the gear cycles on but I can ride in stop and go traffic and it still does alright. I always shut the heated gear off about a mile from my stop so the battery is fully charged.

[StuartV]

Originally Posted by dman

I'd hate to be stuck somewhere REALLY cold with a heated gear failure and no backup. I keep a direct battery connection available to bypass my controller if it fails.

-dman

My philosophy is, if my heated gear fails, I'll find the nearest Walmart or equivalent and buy some sweats, etc, to get me home. If I'm going to be riding where I'll be too far from civilization (and I use that term loosely when I'm using it to mean "someplace with a Walmart") to risk having no heat, then I'll pack along the long johns and fleece, just in case.

[TrashCan]

I have the CycleGear heated jacket and gloves.

The jacket only has to run on bottom 2 of 5 settings to be toasty.
The gloves are a little bulky, but they may break in some.

Best investment I've made in riding gear.


http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/landingpages/hotwired.cfm

[rycomm]

I finally got around to doing my little watt load test on my jacket and 'troller. First I have the transportable 1 zone heatroller and the FG 90W jacket. I removed the ring terminals and soldered on a set of "stackable" banana jacks. I can put them in line and run my GPS and jacket. That probably voided some warranty, but works for me and my multi bike portability. I hooked it up to a watt meter and a 30A power supply @ 13.8v.
I first turned on the controller and the meter read 91W and 6.8A. After a couple of minutes it dropped to 88W and 6.5A. After it was warmed up, I turned the knob down to half. Then it could be seen cycling on and off in about 1 second intervals. I didn't know if it would draw half the current all the time, or full current in short cycles, which is what it does.

I then took it out to the 'Strom, and tried it out. It plugged in and worked as expected. Unfortunately, it was late, and I had no place to go, so I still haven't had a chance to try it on an actual ride. Maybe tomorrow, if things go right.

Ryan

[rjsurfer]

[QUOTE=rycomm;20355085]I finally got around to doing my little watt load test on my jacket and 'troller. First I have the transportable 1 zone heatroller and the FG 90W jacket. I removed the ring terminals and soldered on a set of "stackable" banana jacks. I can put them in line and run my GPS and jacket. That probably voided some warranty, but works for me and my multi bike portability. I hooked it up to a watt meter and a 30A power supply @ 13.8v.
I first turned on the controller and the meter read 91W and 6.8A. After a couple of minutes it dropped to 88W and 6.5A. After it was warmed up, I turned the knob down to half. Then it could be seen cycling on and off in about 1 second intervals. I didn't know if it would draw half the current all the time, or full current in short cycles, which is what it does.

I then took it out to the 'Strom, and tried it out. It plugged in and worked as expected. Unfortunately, it was late, and I had no place to go, so I still haven't had a chance to try it on an actual ride. Maybe tomorrow, if things go right.

Ryan[/QUO TE]

You really have to do that test while riding, I notice a big increase in wattage (voltmeter drops) when the wind is blowing hard and when I get on the highway.

But the modern PWM controllers do a good job of keeping the current draw to a minimum. My 200 watt Stator does OK in supplying enough juice for my jacket and gloves.

Ron W.

[bob393]

I have a 90w jacket on the same circuit as my gloves, the socks and pants are on the other circuit. If I turn the controler up enough for my hands to be warm than the jacket is way to hot for me. Pants and socks together are fine. It was sugested that I get a second controler but I'm not ready for that yet. I think I should have gotten the 65w jacket. Just my 2 cents.