Socket Head Cap Screw Problem

[Hackpirate]

Just some thoughts, if you haven't got it out yet or dropped the engine.

Can you remove enough plastic, tank, or whatever to get a 2' or so 1/2' drive extension to the bolt? Get the next size up allen wrench, maybe in inch drive, and dremel grind it to fit the buggered bolt for a tight fit. Cut off a short section of the allen wrench, about 1 inch or shorter and put a 3/8 drive socket of the same size of this allen wrench. Put a 1/2 to 3/8 drive socket adapter on this and the long 1/2 drive extension.

Tap the end of the extension to get the allen tool into the bolt and then use a 1/2 drive impact on it. An electric impact will be better, not as harsh as an air impact. Maybe even use a 1/2 drive impact knuckle to get an angle. Could do this with long 3/8 extension but 1/2 will transmit more impact.

I don't like grinding my 3/8 drive allen wrenches, too spendy, but I always have extra "L" allen wrenches to cut up for this.

Good luck...

[Laconic]

Originally Posted by anotherguy

Well I'll be damned. A John Bircher sighting.

There's more than one of us here.

[Peanuts]

How far out of spec are the valve clearances? My guess is not a lot.

You could ride the bike another 20000 miles.

Next time try it immediately after a ride where the motor is really hot, in fact take off as many parts you can, then restart and run it until the fan comes on, then quickly remove the other parts and get in there with your new torx tip and large hammer.

[D.T.]

Still not out??

Does the bolt call for locktite? Suzuki uses some orange stuff of death. The above suggestion could work, try to get it out after a ride.

[Hootowl]

Still not out.
I've been side lined with domestic duties lately plus I need to get a garage heater. Its gotten cold.
My next move probably is going to be to drop the front of the engine which will rotate the rear cylinder into a vertical or near vertical position which will make it much easier to get to the problem bolt.
I'll report back when that bolt is out.
Thank goodness its winter and riding is not a possibility. I'd be mad as hell and grouchy otherwise.

Richard

[fritzcoinc]

Also if there is still enough head left you can try a 6" Rigid pipe wrench in there. This little jewel has saved me a time or two.

Also if the engine is stone cold it is a perfect time to put the torch to the bolt head. Being cold you will have a had time getting anything else too hot.Use a propane plumbers torch with a small brazing tip. HomeDepot or lows will have em.

[ttpete]

Originally Posted by Laconic

There's more than one of us here.

Yup........

An' the tea party's a buncha pantywaists.............

[Zuber]

Hey Hootey, I just did a valve adjust on a 990 Adv. I tried my 6" needle nose vice grips and they fit on all the screw heads in the rear cylinder. I think a 6" regular vice grips would work better though. Any size would fit if you removed the shock (not a huge job with a 12mm allen). You only need to turn it 1/100 of a turn to snap it loose. Get a new pair with sharp teeth, not hill billy teeff. Tighten them down with all your massive strength and go for it. If that don't work, have someone tap the screw head with a punch while you reef on it.

Can you hear the KTM cheer leaders? Go, go, gooooo, gooooooo!

Don't make me drive over there.

[Dave in Wi]

^You might be able to get a Dremel in there and create some flats on the outside of the Allen head too. But if you can get a needle nose vice grips on it, that just might do it!

[Hootowl]

Photo's and details coming soon.

[D.T.]

Was beer involved or a jackhammer?

[Dave in Wi]

Good news I hope.

[fritzcoinc]

Originally Posted by Hootowl

Photo's and details coming soon.

I wonder who had the winning method?
And what does the winner get?

I'll take one of these:



Real gal, my phone camera, here in Houston. Do ya think she "turned it on" for me?

[Hootowl]

First, I have to thank Bert for all the time he spent with me and the tools he provided, including a propane heater. Even though he's been a GS owner forever his ideas and hands were very helpful.

I ordered a few sizes of an extractor from McMaster Carr that were designed for tight places but they didn't get the job done


The decision was made to lower the front of the engine which would rotate the rear cylinder into a position that gave us more room to us a variety of tools to extract the bolt.
The center stand through bolt was used as the pivot.




With more room to maneuver tools we tried the easy out that I had made up earlier. No workie


Bert and I talked about getting a set of left hand drill bits, but then the idea of using a Torx bit resurfaced.
So, now with room to get a good, straight shot at the bolt head, we got a T-40 bit, a brass drift, moderately heavy ball peen hammer and I wacked the drift while Bert held the Torx.
Now the bit was securely embedded in the bolt head.
I got my impact driver and set it up to connect to the Torx. When we were ready to hit the impact driver I said to Bert "better twist it to make sure it's set for removing and not tightening"
Just twisting the impact driver had the bolt spinning free.



Now I can get back to doing a valve adjust and the other winter time maintenance and other projects I want to do before riding starts again.
We've got about 8 inches of snow on the ground now so I have time.

I'll end this with a photo from my neighborhood. The last ride of 2012.
I big, big thanks to all of you for your help and ideas.

[Cogswell]

Originally Posted by Hootowl

Now I can get back to doing a valve adjust and the other winter time maintenance and other projects I want to do before riding starts again.
We've got about 8 inches of snow on the ground now so I have time.

I'll end this with a photo from my neighborhood. The last ride of 2012.
I big, big thanks to all of you for your help and ideas.

Good to see you got it out, those hand held impact drivers still work well and I use mine regularly.


Love the bottom picture so much I'm going to borrow a copy, where was it taken ?

Mike