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Old 10-11-2012, 10:19 PM   #16
Wirespokes
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Penetrating oil - the acetone/atf mix is supposed to be the best - and let it sit for several days. Heat the cylinder with a propane torch. Heating/cooling cycles with penetrating oil making its way in there is what will do it.

Do not try to use force! Only a light rocking back and forth. Force will break the piston. Remove that wrench and fasten down the cylinder again so it won't move (It bothers me seeing tools abused like that).

I've freed up stuck cylinders and found they were still serviceable. Putting a lot of force on the piston could very well break a ring land or bend the rod. Don't go there!

It won't move till the rust has been penetrated and somewhat dissolved. So apply a large dose of patience and realize this won't come free in the next hour - more like next week.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:53 AM   #17
lucky6600 OP
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While the engine was socking with ATF, I have no stopping searching for parts like gas tank and possible replacement engine.


When I was in a conversation with bunch friends couple weeks ago, someone mentioned he has a "maybe" BMW in his shade and has not been touched for a very long time.
It was the trade in with a car he was selling to a guy many years ago. He also stated it has many extra parts comes with it. Therefore, I went down to take a look last Thursday night.
We checked out the "bike" and the parts with two flash light in a cold dark shade. It has a very solid gas tank and I knew I wanted it.
After I got home, I wrote him a very nice long email saying how worthless that bike and parts are and I would love to offer him this amount of $$$ for cleaning up his shade.
O ... Boy ... he just can't wait to get rid off that thing.

here we go ... he moved the bike and parts outside for me to pick up while nobody was at home. (this shows how much he cares about the "bike")





It appears to be a 72 R60/5 with a number matching engine and frame, and a free moving engine and transmission.... what the chance is that ....






and the pile of "parts" appear to be a 72 R75/5 without a frame ..







After putting two R60/5 side by side, the new picked up one looks just weird .... and this was discovered.










so, what I got here are ... from the very right hand side ... A 71 R60/5 with a good frame but a seized left engine which used to be my part bike, but it's the project now. In the middle is a 72 R60/5 with a banana frame, but a free moving engine. At the most left hand side is a 72 R75/5 with everything but a main frame.







It looks like I have more than enough parts to put up ONE runner. However, what kind of comibation I should do?


1) just replaced the left cylider with the good one by cutting down the connecting rod.

2) engine swap with the good R60 engine on to the good frame

3) swap the R75 engine on the good frame and conver it into a R75 "offically"

4) ....others?

lucky6600 screwed with this post 12-05-2012 at 09:36 AM
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:28 AM   #18
oldroadie
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I'd put the good R60 motor in the good frame. Same cables, carbs, etc makes it easy.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:35 PM   #19
isdt BMW
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R-60

I have a pair of good R-60 cylinders,no pistons $80 for the pair plus postage if you want them. std. bore
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:11 AM   #20
lucky6600 OP
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Time has passed by and some works have done for this so called "FRANKENSTEIN" R60/5 project.

I have decided to bring back ONE R60/5 back to life as "stock" as possible using all the parts that I have with the LOWest cost.

First, I have to take off the seized engine with "tools".






After two hours of hammering ...









It doesn't look so bad after all





Now, going to the part bike ...

ya... so NOT surprised







For all the work, this is what I needed





Both had no left ball ....





Now, with all the new base, head, valve gasket and new pushrod seals, the engine is move free.





What I learned was ... 71 and 72 have different push rods, even with same length

72' on the left and 71' on the right


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Old 12-23-2012, 08:17 AM   #21
lucky6600 OP
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I figured since it has pretty much nothing on it, I might take off the tramission and lube the spline as well.




It didn't look that bad at all, so I had it cleaned and put it back.
Along with clutch arms and bearing were cleaned, and lubed









Yes.... the oil pan had NO gasket and this is what it looked like








And, half hour later






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Old 12-23-2012, 08:34 AM   #22
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The wire harness on the project bike were totally messed up, so I had to swap with the part bike.




So, take a guess which one is the "better" one?




That wasn't really as hard as I thought







I had to do it twice because those turn signal legs. Those legs service as ground for the turn signal and the new paint prevent it from grounding.





Thought swap the fork gaiter should be an easy job, but only found out the bottom screw at the right leg was messed up so I decided to rebuilt the forks and swap with "better" parts.








Cleaned the front wheels, brakes, bearings .... and whatever up front.
running with new cables and stuff. The front part of the bike looks like a real bike now




And, I was lucky enough to find that pair of aluminum turn signals from a friend, $60 a pair shipped to my doorstep. I was told there are not available any more?? is that true?









The part bike looks pretty "clean" now

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Old 12-23-2012, 08:41 AM   #23
lucky6600 OP
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What I found while I was looking at the two sub-frames that I have now was and one is bended which has pins for seat hinges, but the straight one has NO pins for seat hinges.

what do I do now uh??

















here is the question for you guys


What would you do if you were me?




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Old 12-23-2012, 08:48 AM   #24
crazydrummerdude
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Awesome project, now with so many extra parts! Very cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwblake View Post
you're asking junkies if you should go for another fix.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
I don't know if this will work but might be worth a try.
Soak the piston with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF for several days.
Fab a cross brace of stout steel that will go across the bore between the two studs that are part of the cylinder.
Drill and tap a center hole for a large fine pitch threaded bolt in the center of the brace.
Bolt the cross brace to the cylinder at the studs.
Place a piece of stout aluminum between the center bolt and the piston top. Tighten the center bolt to drive the piston out of the bore.
Let us know if that works
Worked for me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
The wrench was not in the original design of the tool I put together..
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:27 AM   #25
JonnyCash
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I have a straight /5 frame that is free for the taking should you want it. I can't offer the subframe to you, since I turned it into a paddock stand for my RD350. Let me know. I'm in Mid-coast Maine, don't know if you ever get up this way.
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:22 PM   #26
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky6600 View Post
What I found while I was looking at the two sub-frames that I have now was and one is bended which has pins for seat hinges, but the straight one has NO pins for seat hinges. What do I do Now?
Forget the hinges and make a lift off seat. To do this add another bolt to the seat pan and another hole opposite the existing lock pin. Makes it much easier to access the tool tray if you decide to go with panniers... See more here (note: he says this is for a /6 seat, but you can add a plate to the /5 subframe to make it work, or mount the bolt to the subframe and put a hole in your seat pan,,,) http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/seatmod/index.htm

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Old 12-23-2012, 12:30 PM   #27
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
I can't offer the subframe to you, since I turned it into a paddock stand for my RD350.
Very cool idea!
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:26 PM   #28
Big Bamboo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
I have a straight /5 frame that is free for the taking should you want it.
There's a guy on the IBMWR.org marketplace looking for a /5 frame with title under R-Airhead Twins Parts Wanted: http://marketplace.ibmwr.org/ads/rapw
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:49 PM   #29
JonnyCash
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^ I don't have a title for it. In Maine, you don't need a title for a vehicle that is older than 20 yrs. There are some other states that work like this, too. Thanks for the referral though.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:25 PM   #30
disston
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$60 for a pair of Aluminum turn signals is a very good friend indeed. They go for much more than that.

You're doing a good job.

Since the original frame is trash. Take the data plate off the head stock before you throw it away. Souvenir.
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