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[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by mcma111

RZRob,

Spring #6 can become a problem when it loses it's tension. My son's bike would not start when cold and I found that the engine would rotate around to TDC with a pressurized cylinder and not be able to get past TDC due to the decom not opening the right exhaust valve. I finally replaced that little spring and the engine would start normally again. I have a buddy's bike that is doing the exact same thing and we will be replacing the spring this coming week.

Thank you for posting the valuable information. That spring makes the decompression cam rotate counterclockwise at engine speeds less than 800 rpm, engaging the right exhaust valve. When the engine is running (with speeds greater than 800 rpm) that spring is compressed by centrifugal force, and the decompression cam rotates clockwise, disengaging from the right exhaust valve. That decompression spring costs less than $2. Therefore, I now plan to replace that spring with a new one every time I remove the camshaft for any reason.



Spud

[Cumbacheech]

Merry Christmas Everyone!!

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by snofrog

I am considering an XRL for its off road bias . Being air cooled, is it ever an issue with heat and riding slowly or idling ? thanks , Mark

Originally Posted by EsconDeasy

Mine seems to run cooler at lower speeds.......perhaps my jetting is biased towards richer mixtures at lower throttle openings. Loads on the engine result in the highest temps for me. I am running dave's mods with the leanest recommended jets: 52/158 if I recall.
I have gone into the garage after a spring ride to hear the gas boiling in the gas tank (IMS 4.0)

I personally don't think additional finning or oil coolers are necessary on this bike as long as you take reasonable precautions to keep the bike cool. before I bought mine, the PO ran it 65 mph up Black Canyon hill on I17 year round and didn't frag the engine....that was with stock jetting

Letting the engine idle, or riding slowly won't cause problems as long as engine rpms aren't high. However, riding at high rpms for extended periods of time can definitely cause problems, especially if you have removed the stock air scoops from the fuel tank.

If you ride prudently, and you don't remove the stock air scoops, you shouldn't have any problems. However, if you consistently ride the bike hard, you can definitely encounter problems. If you ride hard consistently and also remove the stock air scoops, your chances of overheating the engine increase significantly. Honda put the stock air scoops on the bike for a reason; they are very effective in lowering engine temperatures.

If you install an aftermarket fuel tank, the stock air scoops must be removed. If you remove the air scoops for any reason, and also ride the bike hard, it's prudent to consider installing an oil cooler or big-fin cylinder to compensate for the increased engine temperatures. If you install an oil dipstick thermometer on a bike with the stock fuel tank, you can document the difference in oil temperatures when the air scoops are removed, and re-installed.

Spud

[techforlife]

Originally Posted by therealbigman

Merry Christmas Yall , .

Hmmmmmmmmmmm drinkin already eh..........

K.......... i`m in





B

[beechum1]

Merry Christmas Everyone!!

A little video from a few months ago when Heywood and I went to "La Presa Rodriguez" here in TJ.

[Haywood]

Merry Christmas!

Thanks for the video!

[Break_Syncro]

Merry Christmas to you all!

Ride safe!

[Brown Falcon]

Merry Christmas everyone! I hope you have a wonderful and blessed day!

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by snofrog

I am considering an XRL for its off road bias . Being air cooled, is it ever an issue with heat and riding slowly or idling ? thanks , Mark

Yes it can be an issue. When you are working it hard in slow tight stuff, it's a good idea to stop and rest once in a while (I am usually ready for a break and use the bike as an excuse)

[purpledrake]

Originally Posted by MentalGuru

Anytime.

This is engine fogger. Spray into carb while cranking the engine.

With a steel gas tank I would fill and add stabilzer. Drain a plastic one.


Geese should work great. Swans are even better... They are mean...

Thanks again, MentalGuru. I didn't know about this. I will get some ASAP.

PD

[purpledrake]

Originally Posted by mcma111

RZRob,

Spring #6 can become a problem when it loses it's tension. My son's bike would not start when cold and I found that the engine would rotate around to TDC with a pressurized cylinder and not be able to get past TDC due to the decom not opening the right exhaust valve. I finally replaced that little spring and the engine would start normally again. I have a buddy's bike that is doing the exact same thing and we will be replacing the spring this coming week.

Boy I wish that I lived close to you. I could really grow into the buddy role.

[Lonestar2112]

Merry Christmas all.

[RZRob]

Okay, been there before. Spring 6 was new I think maybe...I'd replace it again, but pressing that gear off/on again sounds like a real bitch.

RZ Rob

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by RZRob

Okay, been there before. Spring 6 was new I think maybe...I'd replace it again, but pressing that gear off/on again sounds like a real bitch.

RZ Rob

You only need to move the cam chain sprocket over about 1/4" to access the spring.

[super samurai]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

I don't think my oil temperature has exceeded 290 degrees Fahrenheit since I installed my Spud Oil Cooler. My XR650L will only approach that oil temperature when I am ascending very long, steep mountain trails, or riding WOT down the freeway for 35 miles, or more. However, it's not hard to exceed 275 degrees while climbing 2,500-4,000 vertical feet in the Rocky Mountains. If you can keep oil temperatures below 275 degrees, that's great. However, I think 300 degrees is a very practical, maximum temperature which will still prevent heat degradation of the engine oil.

If you remove the stock air scoops, and ride the bike hard, an oil cooler is a very wise investment. The oil cooler not only reduces oil temperatures while riding; it also cools the oil much more rapidly after you stop the engine. My oil cooler not only radiates heat from the cooler itself and its external oil lines; as the external oil cools it also reduces the oil temperature in the reservoir to which it is connected. At any given time, a large amount of the engine oil resides in the oil reservoir and downtube. Therefore, an oil cooler will greatly reduce operating oil temperatures after you restart the bike, and the much cooler, external oil is returned to the engine.

If anyone is interested, here's a link to the installation thread for my Spud Oil Cooler, which costs less than $100 to fabricate.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781962

Spud

so i am ordering the same cooler you have tonight spud. i am gonna run some bent stainless lines only cuz i have it.
could you post up a close up pic of your final fender mod. got lost in your write up as to how much you trimmed and final slots. also do you think it would matter if the lines from the cooler were pointed up?