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Old 12-22-2012, 07:10 PM   #5011
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Piles going in:

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Old 12-22-2012, 07:27 PM   #5012
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Judging by the diameter of those screws, that is going to be a lot bigger building than my dads lake side garage addition.

How big is it going to be ?
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:52 PM   #5013
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And where aboot in Alberta? I grew up South of Lethbridge...
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:55 PM   #5014
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I see a 780 area code on the truck so Edmonton and North?
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:25 PM   #5015
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16" - 20" piles for the foundation, 36" piles for the crane rail columns; located just outside of Edmonton, 60' x 160' x 21' and unfortunately the cost is going to be more than a garage addition as well though.

More of a light industrial building but I am sure that the 5 ton hoists will work as a bike lift...







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Old 12-23-2012, 04:51 PM   #5016
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I need a file with all of the good ideas found here. The next man cave is going to be perfect...well better.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:43 AM   #5017
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jasonmt,
That's going to be a nice!
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:19 AM   #5018
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my holiday project

So here it is!



My girlfriend and I finally found an affordable rental in Santa Fe that has a garage, no small feat! The house is a 50's signature faux adobe, thus no insulation and sketchy wiring. On the plus side the ceiling is so high i couldn't get it into the frame of the crappy cell phone camera. Those shelves you see behind the garage door are hanging down a good 3' and wrap all the way around the space, endless storage!

Since this is a rental I'm keeping costs to a minimum, I'm giving myself a budget of $200 to make it a more enjoyable workspace. I think I have a free roll of fiberglass insulation which should take care of one wall, that just leaves me one other exterior wall to insulate. I'm thinking of hanging thin ply over that.

Last night I started by ripping out that nasty old peg board on the back wall, the 'workbench' is coming out today after I pick up a crowbar on my way home from work. I'll insulate that wall then put in a proper workbench, hopefully I can find a formica counter top to use
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:45 PM   #5019
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I'll insulate that wall then put in a proper workbench, hopefully I can find a formica counter top to use
Home improvement and countertop stores usually have bargain bins of misfit countertops.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:18 AM   #5020
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Ya, I'll have to go that route, I checked my local Habitat ReStore and they didn't have any. I had formica on my last work bench and it was amazingly tough and then easy to clean after you're done.

Christmas Eve I decided I had been extra good this year so I got myself a crowbar AND this fun toy..



Christmas was spent in the freezing garage building new sawhorses and then tearing out the old workbench.



I'm halfway through insulating that back wall then I'll move on to the other wall. One question though: that yellow cord hanging down in the top image actually plugs into the workbench socket and feeds the security light in front of the garage. Someone did a have ass job and just used an extension cord for that light instead of running wire. Now if I tear that out and run proper wire tapped into that outlet will I be in violation of any codes?
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:36 AM   #5021
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I'm halfway through insulating that back wall then I'll move on to the other wall. One question though: that yellow cord hanging down in the top image actually plugs into the workbench socket and feeds the security light in front of the garage. Someone did a have ass job and just used an extension cord for that light instead of running wire. Now if I tear that out and run proper wire tapped into that outlet will I be in violation of any codes?
Codes vary by location. However, if you use a junction box, the wires are properly secured, and said box isn't concealed, you should be OK. If that box is accessible through the attic or you're running the wiring off an existing outlet box, you should be good. Just be sure things are properly secured. Obviously, it'd be closer to code than the existing work.

I just noticed the existing work, on that back wall, is definitely not up to code.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:38 AM   #5022
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Ya
I'm halfway through insulating that back wall then I'll move on to the other wall. One question though: that yellow cord hanging down in the top image actually plugs into the workbench socket and feeds the security light in front of the garage. Someone did a have ass job and just used an extension cord for that light instead of running wire. Now if I tear that out and run proper wire tapped into that outlet will I be in violation of any codes?

I'm not an electrician, but did just spend some time reading electrical code for fixing a bunch of outlets. First, make sure you know what else (if anything) is on that circuit and make sure the breaker is sized correctly for the wire gauge that is used. Then if you want to tie into that circuit, do it by pigtailing the wires -- ie the feeder wire has wire nut connections on the hot, neutral and ground that split off -- one for the existing outlet, and another line for your new line. This way, the wire nut connection is bearing the load, not the existing outlet, and if you remove or have problems with the existing outlet, it won't affect your new line circuit.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:10 AM   #5023
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Thanks guys, I was thinking the same things. Just do it right

What looks (noticeably) bad about the wiring on the back wall? I'm pretty sure that's original work, not that that's a good thing... I'm not about to redo all the wiring on a rental!
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:33 AM   #5024
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First, make sure you know what else (if anything) is on that circuit and make sure the breaker is sized correctly for the wire gauge that is used.
Excellent advice.

We bought an estate house, directly from the estate. Our city doesn't require home inspections. Furthermore, we have no code inspector. The previous homeowner had someone add circuits to the existing circuits. He changed all the breakers to 30A, even though none of the wiring could ever support that much amperage. See below.

Quote:
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Then if you want to tie into that circuit, do it by pigtailing the wires -- ie the feeder wire has wire nut connections on the hot, neutral and ground that split off -- one for the existing outlet, and another line for your new line. This way, the wire nut connection is bearing the load, not the existing outlet, and if you remove or have problems with the existing outlet, it won't affect your new line circuit.
Pigtailing is the correct way.

In my house, I found 6 circuits pigtailed together, in one of the light fixture boxes. As mentioned, the guy had a 30A fuse on this circuit. He electrical taped this mess together, as no wire nut could ever fit. This tape was crispy hard. I could see smoke trails out of this junction box. Scary shit!!!!

I had the inbound service updated, with a new meter box and proper weatherhead. I hired an electrician to do the work, as this work coincided with work that my utility provider was doing. A couple years later, I got to looking at the electrician's work and realized he didn't install a ground rod. This is required. Rather than call him back, I just did it myself. I've had issues, with two other electricians, as well. Now, I do all my own work.

"go::ahead", There are electrical books at your local home improvement store. They may not be exact to your local codes, but, they'll get you headed in the right direction and give you a better idea how it all works.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:47 AM   #5025
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What looks (noticeably) bad about the wiring on the back wall? I'm pretty sure that's original work, not that that's a good thing... I'm not about to redo all the wiring on a rental!
I wouldn't redo a rental, either. It might pay to get friendly with your landlord and have them consider hiring an electrician to help you and to protect the property and your life. If your city requires inspections of properties for sale, that property would have to be brought up to code.

Obvious stuff: There are no wire protectors on the wire running through the studs. The wires running to that switchbox(?), in the corner, aren't through the corner studs and unprotected. That particular circuit is clearly added into an existing circuit, by the way the left wall is cut into. If you're sheeting that back wall, the switchbox(?) must face out, as there can't be any type of box concealed by sheating. Also, you need to verify that circuit (how it's mated to the existing circuit, appropriate gauge wire/breaker, protection, etc). None of the wiring is secured to the studs with staples, as required in any code. Some codes have switch/outlet height restrictions.
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