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Old 12-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #24751
1 lunger
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Originally Posted by poppy View Post
Thats pretty good footage 1 Lunger . Was pretty impressed with the lack of wind noise and the clarity in which you could hear you and the bike. Were abouts is the mic positioned and how long can they film for.
2 hrs continuous in 1080p HD and I forget how long in 720p, maybe 4 hrs. the mic is right next to the lens and its got back round noise buffering. I think these are a great deal! Cheaper than a GoPro and a nice goggle ($60-80 value) too
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:14 PM   #24752
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here's some more video http://youtu.be/AjYzalCO9zo

1 lunger screwed with this post 12-24-2012 at 08:31 AM
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:22 AM   #24753
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Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
here's some more video http://youtu.be/AjYzalCO9zo
Nice. A group of us were out there a while back. We met some hikers too and they seemed cool. Share the trails people. It can be done. We also met mountain biker Jim. I think he had me confused with you (you know, a Husky rider) because I had never met him before. Ed G knows him.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:01 PM   #24754
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Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
Some have already figured it out, most haven't. So here's how to eliminate that stupid-assed second key for the gas cap, and still have everything factory.

................................

thanks for this post. one key is plenty.

i would prefer something like this but there seems nothing around.
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:51 PM   #24755
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Yeah that guy seems to have disappeared, emails go unanswered.

Besides, he was charging around $100 for that...To get an extra 6-8 ounces? Not worth it to me.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:12 PM   #24756
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Noticed a few talking about heavy clutch pull etc on the 610. Was scanning through ebay here in Aus and came across these things. I dont have one or know anything about them. Maybe worth a try, cheaper to experiment with than buying a rekluse, might work, might not. Not sure why they have them marked for honda, the clutch pull on the honda is like squeazing butter compared to the 610.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300827239...84.m1423.l2649

Looking forward to seeing some footage lunger.

here is a pic
Harley had these back in the 50's. They reduce pull effort but increase pull length. Not to mention additional weight.

If you think the clutch pull is excessive on your Husky, something is wrong.
I say that because the clutch on my 2000 model has a super easy clutch pull, best ever!
Y'all must have a rotten cable, lever in need of cleaning and lube or bad shaft bearing.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:28 PM   #24757
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Clutches from 2000 to 2007 have changed.

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Old 12-26-2012, 10:50 PM   #24758
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Yeah, and? My 07 clutch is buttery smooth and has just the right amount of resistance. I've seen a lot of people wanting to go to a hydro clutch, never understood why, those things are horrible, spongy and no feel to them.

But maybe that's just because I've only ever had one bike with a hydro clutch (which I changed to a cable LOL)
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:31 AM   #24759
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Yeah that guy seems to have disappeared, emails go unanswered.

Besides, he was charging around $100 for that...To get an extra 6-8 ounces? Not worth it to me.
not worth it for the extra capacity but worth it to me for convenience and an extra bit of bling!
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:12 AM   #24760
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StolenFant • Yesterday 08:28 PM
Clutches from 2000 to 2007 have changed.

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Yes they sure have. The 07 clutch has 07 springs, 07 plates, 07 cable, and an 07 lever. The 2000 model has the same items but they were made in 2000.
Try a good cleanning, lubracation, and adjustment before condeming.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
Yeah, and? My 07 clutch is buttery smooth and has just the right amount of resistance. I've seen a lot of people wanting to go to a hydro clutch, never understood why, those things are horrible, spongy and no feel to them.

But maybe that's just because I've only ever had one bike with a hydro clutch (which I changed to a cable LOL)
Isn't it funny how some folk just want to change for the sake of change?
They always rip on and want to change the easy stuff like side stands and seats. Instead of servicing the steerhead bearings they add a steering dampner.
A hyd. clutch is great! Hey, less moving parts. But of course the master and slave cylinders take alot of wear as a result of use. The clutch is used much mpore than brakes. The seals and cylinder bores wear. My K1200 has a hyd. clutch and at 64K miles it is still working smoothly.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #24761
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Getting the cable aligned properly at both ends so it doesn't rub against the end of the housing making a corner when it's under tension, and cleaning and lubricating the lever and cable makes a huge difference. Mine is buttery smooth, and I'm not worried about wearing it out. The effort is on par with, or lower than, the KTM hydro clutches on new bikes at the dealer.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:09 AM   #24762
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Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Getting the cable aligned properly at both ends so it doesn't rub against the end of the housing making a corner when it's under tension, and cleaning and lubricating the lever and cable makes a huge difference. Mine is buttery smooth, and I'm not worried about wearing it out. The effort is on par with, or lower than, the KTM hydro clutches on new bikes at the dealer.

I lube mine all the time and the pull is fine - how do you align the cable and keep it so?
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:43 PM   #24763
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Harley had these back in the 50's. They reduce pull effort but increase pull length. Not to mention additional weight.

If you think the clutch pull is excessive on your Husky, something is wrong.
I say that because the clutch on my 2000 model has a super easy clutch pull, best ever!
Y'all must have a rotten cable, lever in need of cleaning and lube or bad shaft bearing.
That thing must work like a block and tackle. I too have no trouble with clutch pull on the 610. My OEM cable broke at 2k, but the motion pro +2" I replaced it with has been great for 5k+ and I also haven't had any trouble finding -N- ever! I think it's important the cables routed proper (a zip tie) near the lever to keep the cable from bowing helps.

Edit: with the pad and risers I don't have it zip tied anymore. It lines up very nice by itself now. I think like most of us, I too run the cable up through the top bar clamp. I did spend some time fiddling with the bottom cable mount when I installed it, marketing sure it wasn't rubbing on the cable housing. FWIW, don't spend the money on one of those fancy cable lube things. They make as much of a mess as spraying the lube in with a straw. this stuff works good! I use it for almost everything.

1 lunger screwed with this post 12-27-2012 at 02:01 PM
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:27 PM   #24764
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This is how the cable should mbe routed.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #24765
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This is how the cable should mbe routed.
Does the cable run inside the radiator next to the frame or to the outside?

I bought my bike used and its on the outside of the radiator,,,

Thanks!
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