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Old 12-27-2012, 05:12 AM   #24631
fritzcoinc
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Location: Cypress, Tx
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StolenFant Yesterday 08:28 PM
Clutches from 2000 to 2007 have changed.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Yes they sure have. The 07 clutch has 07 springs, 07 plates, 07 cable, and an 07 lever. The 2000 model has the same items but they were made in 2000.
Try a good cleanning, lubracation, and adjustment before condeming.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
Yeah, and? My 07 clutch is buttery smooth and has just the right amount of resistance. I've seen a lot of people wanting to go to a hydro clutch, never understood why, those things are horrible, spongy and no feel to them.

But maybe that's just because I've only ever had one bike with a hydro clutch (which I changed to a cable LOL)
Isn't it funny how some folk just want to change for the sake of change?
They always rip on and want to change the easy stuff like side stands and seats. Instead of servicing the steerhead bearings they add a steering dampner.
A hyd. clutch is great! Hey, less moving parts. But of course the master and slave cylinders take alot of wear as a result of use. The clutch is used much mpore than brakes. The seals and cylinder bores wear. My K1200 has a hyd. clutch and at 64K miles it is still working smoothly.
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86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #24632
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Getting the cable aligned properly at both ends so it doesn't rub against the end of the housing making a corner when it's under tension, and cleaning and lubricating the lever and cable makes a huge difference. Mine is buttery smooth, and I'm not worried about wearing it out. The effort is on par with, or lower than, the hydro clutches on new bikes at the dealer.
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Taranis screwed with this post 06-09-2013 at 03:20 PM
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:09 AM   #24633
Flashman1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Getting the cable aligned properly at both ends so it doesn't rub against the end of the housing making a corner when it's under tension, and cleaning and lubricating the lever and cable makes a huge difference. Mine is buttery smooth, and I'm not worried about wearing it out. The effort is on par with, or lower than, the KTM hydro clutches on new bikes at the dealer.

I lube mine all the time and the pull is fine - how do you align the cable and keep it so?
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:43 PM   #24634
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Harley had these back in the 50's. They reduce pull effort but increase pull length. Not to mention additional weight.

If you think the clutch pull is excessive on your Husky, something is wrong.
I say that because the clutch on my 2000 model has a super easy clutch pull, best ever!
Y'all must have a rotten cable, lever in need of cleaning and lube or bad shaft bearing.
That thing must work like a block and tackle. I too have no trouble with clutch pull on the 610. My OEM cable broke at 2k, but the motion pro +2" I replaced it with has been great for 5k+ and I also haven't had any trouble finding -N- ever! I think it's important the cables routed proper (a zip tie) near the lever to keep the cable from bowing helps.

Edit: with the pad and risers I don't have it zip tied anymore. It lines up very nice by itself now. I think like most of us, I too run the cable up through the top bar clamp. I did spend some time fiddling with the bottom cable mount when I installed it, marketing sure it wasn't rubbing on the cable housing. FWIW, don't spend the money on one of those fancy cable lube things. They make as much of a mess as spraying the lube in with a straw. this stuff works good! I use it for almost everything.

1 lunger screwed with this post 12-27-2012 at 02:01 PM
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:27 PM   #24635
fritzcoinc
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This is how the cable should mbe routed.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #24636
shootis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
This is how the cable should mbe routed.
Does the cable run inside the radiator next to the frame or to the outside?

I bought my bike used and its on the outside of the radiator,,,

Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:48 PM   #24637
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It should run inside by the frame and up over the rad if I remember correctly. I zip tie it to the rad fan housing to keep it off the head and then up, but DON'T pinch it between the the rad and frame. I got mine back from the shop once like that and had to take everything off down to the right rad to reroute it.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:56 PM   #24638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
This is how the cable should mbe routed.
That's a clean bike!! I'm mean that in a good sense. It's cold here so I'm not washing mine and it looks like the "red headed step kid in the corner".
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:42 PM   #24639
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
That's a clean bike!! I'm mean that in a good sense. It's cold here so I'm not washing mine and it looks like the "red headed step kid in the corner".

Thank You! But it's not always clean!


You can also see in this photo that the cable route is behind the right radiator. But not between rad. and frame.

The bike cleans up well:
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:11 AM   #24640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
I lube mine all the time and the pull is fine - how do you align the cable and keep it so?
Handlebar lever end

Lower end
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:10 AM   #24641
tlking6
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Got in a little 4 day trip to Baja with my son after Christmas. The 610 is a worthy dual sport mount for Baja that I wouldnt trade for anything.



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Old 01-01-2013, 02:33 PM   #24642
Flashman1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Lower end is easy - but the upper needs a machine shop??
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:27 PM   #24643
duanew1
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New Owner issues

Hello guys. I am joining the group. I just traded one of my street bikes for a 2006 TE610 with and extra set of sumo wheels, dirtbag setup, spare parts and almost an entire spare engine. Of course I have inherited the subframe issues.

The exhaust mount seems to have been broken and repaired with a homemade metal bracket. The battery mount seems to have had metal added with screws to strengthen it. I will have to look at it closer later. The brake light did not work when I got it. I found a lot of dirt in the space behind the light. I cleaned the connections and put a thick layer of dielectric grease on them and got it working again. There is a chance I might change the whole light out in the future. The left mirror mount is broken. It should be an easy fix. One of the mounting points of the front left header cover is broken. I guess that I will have to have that welded. Is the exhaust pipe stainless?

The main problem that I have found is that the subframe is broken on the left side on the extension that sticks out past the seat in the rear and holds the rear fender and rack. I guess that my only option is to take it apart and have it welded. Is that the best course of action? What should I have to tell the welder for the aluminum for the subframe?

Thank you for any directions and ideas.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:17 AM   #24644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Lower end is easy - but the upper needs a machine shop??
It's a super-easy part to knock out if someone has access to a lathe. I did, so I did.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:41 AM   #24645
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duanew1 View Post
Hello guys. I am joining the group. I just traded one of my street bikes for a 2006 TE610 with and extra set of sumo wheels, dirtbag setup, spare parts and almost an entire spare engine. Of course I have inherited the subframe issues.

The exhaust mount seems to have been broken and repaired with a homemade metal bracket. The battery mount seems to have had metal added with screws to strengthen it. I will have to look at it closer later. The brake light did not work when I got it. I found a lot of dirt in the space behind the light. I cleaned the connections and put a thick layer of dielectric grease on them and got it working again. There is a chance I might change the whole light out in the future. The left mirror mount is broken. It should be an easy fix. One of the mounting points of the front left header cover is broken. I guess that I will have to have that welded. Is the exhaust pipe stainless?

The main problem that I have found is that the subframe is broken on the left side on the extension that sticks out past the seat in the rear and holds the rear fender and rack. I guess that my only option is to take it apart and have it welded. Is that the best course of action? What should I have to tell the welder for the aluminum for the subframe?

Thank you for any directions and ideas.

I'm selling one!
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