Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[1 lunger]

It should run inside by the frame and up over the rad if I remember correctly. I zip tie it to the rad fan housing to keep it off the head and then up, but DON'T pinch it between the the rad and frame. I got mine back from the shop once like that and had to take everything off down to the right rad to reroute it.

[1 lunger]

Originally Posted by fritzcoinc

This is how the cable should mbe routed.

That's a clean bike!! I'm mean that in a good sense. It's cold here so I'm not washing mine and it looks like the "red headed step kid in the corner".

[fritzcoinc]

Originally Posted by 1 lunger

That's a clean bike!! I'm mean that in a good sense. It's cold here so I'm not washing mine and it looks like the "red headed step kid in the corner".

Thank You! But it's not always clean!


You can also see in this photo that the cable route is behind the right radiator. But not between rad. and frame.

The bike cleans up well:

[Taranis]

Originally Posted by Flashman1

I lube mine all the time and the pull is fine - how do you align the cable and keep it so?

Handlebar lever end

Lower end

[tlking6]

Got in a little 4 day trip to Baja with my son after Christmas. The 610 is a worthy dual sport mount for Baja that I wouldnt trade for anything.

[Flashman1]

Originally Posted by Taranis

Handlebar lever end

Lower end

Lower end is easy - but the upper needs a machine shop??

[duanew1]

Hello guys. I am joining the group. I just traded one of my street bikes for a 2006 TE610 with and extra set of sumo wheels, dirtbag setup, spare parts and almost an entire spare engine. Of course I have inherited the subframe issues.

The exhaust mount seems to have been broken and repaired with a homemade metal bracket. The battery mount seems to have had metal added with screws to strengthen it. I will have to look at it closer later. The brake light did not work when I got it. I found a lot of dirt in the space behind the light. I cleaned the connections and put a thick layer of dielectric grease on them and got it working again. There is a chance I might change the whole light out in the future. The left mirror mount is broken. It should be an easy fix. One of the mounting points of the front left header cover is broken. I guess that I will have to have that welded. Is the exhaust pipe stainless?

The main problem that I have found is that the subframe is broken on the left side on the extension that sticks out past the seat in the rear and holds the rear fender and rack. I guess that my only option is to take it apart and have it welded. Is that the best course of action? What should I have to tell the welder for the aluminum for the subframe?

Thank you for any directions and ideas.

[Taranis]

Originally Posted by Flashman1

Lower end is easy - but the upper needs a machine shop??

It's a super-easy part to knock out if someone has access to a lathe. I did, so I did.

[1 lunger]

Originally Posted by duanew1

Hello guys. I am joining the group. I just traded one of my street bikes for a 2006 TE610 with and extra set of sumo wheels, dirtbag setup, spare parts and almost an entire spare engine. Of course I have inherited the subframe issues.

The exhaust mount seems to have been broken and repaired with a homemade metal bracket. The battery mount seems to have had metal added with screws to strengthen it. I will have to look at it closer later. The brake light did not work when I got it. I found a lot of dirt in the space behind the light. I cleaned the connections and put a thick layer of dielectric grease on them and got it working again. There is a chance I might change the whole light out in the future. The left mirror mount is broken. It should be an easy fix. One of the mounting points of the front left header cover is broken. I guess that I will have to have that welded. Is the exhaust pipe stainless?

The main problem that I have found is that the subframe is broken on the left side on the extension that sticks out past the seat in the rear and holds the rear fender and rack. I guess that my only option is to take it apart and have it welded. Is that the best course of action? What should I have to tell the welder for the aluminum for the subframe?

Thank you for any directions and ideas.

I'm selling one!

[BiG DoM]

Subframe failures with many enduro type bikes are common - this is a weight saving area and often they are only designed to hold the fender and maybe lights and plate. Many then fit a rack or extra gas tank and they FAIL. This is very common on the 610's and 630. When you have it repaired you must have it gusseted for extra strength. There is a very good thread on it on the Cafe Husky website (albeit for the 630) uit applies to 610 as well. This will also allow you to use a rack if you wish. If you simply weld the break the chances are good it will break again next to the existing break.

[BiG DoM]

Oh and check your battery cage while about it - also known to crack.

[duanew1]

Originally Posted by BiG DoM

Subframe failures with many enduro type bikes are common - this is a weight saving area and often they are only designed to hold the fender and maybe lights and plate. Many then fit a rack or extra gas tank and they FAIL. This is very common on the 610's and 630. When you have it repaired you must have it gusseted for extra strength. There is a very good thread on it on the Cafe Husky website (albeit for the 630) uit applies to 610 as well. This will also allow you to use a rack if you wish. If you simply weld the break the chances are good it will break again next to the existing break.

Originally Posted by BiG DoM

Oh and check your battery cage while about it - also known to crack.

Thanks. Someone PM'ed me a link to the MotoIQ website where they did some repairs.

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ed-design.aspx

I am pretty much going to do something similar to what is on the above page. Below is where I am now. I hope the repair isn't too expensive.

[1 lunger]

That should be an easy enough fix.

[motopreserve]

I just did the Moto IQ described fix for the clutch cable - making a collar for the ferrule. Great, easy fix. That couple with some cleaning and fresh dri-slide, and the clutch pull action is night and day.

Very helpful tips.

[duanew1]

Originally Posted by 1 lunger

That should be an easy enough fix.

Yea that one place wouldn't be that bad to weld up, but i am planning on getting the area strengthened with some gussets. That is going to increase the price of repair by a large margin. It will be much better though when it is done.