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Old 12-28-2012, 08:39 AM   #76
FJ_Kevin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
Thank you, I will never be able to restore a bike, as I don't have the time, inclination, or facilities to do so, I would much rather be riding a tatty bike, than not riding a restored one, buy hey, that's just me. Do you like how I fitted red HT wires to match the pinstripe on the tank I have done fitting new parts now, maybe a whitewall tyre on the front sometime, right now I just want to get it changing gear sweetly and I will be happy.


I have to agree that your bike looks great as is. And yes the red wires do give some additional 1970's flair. Even though I run mind with the wixom bags, I think the loops look best naked and with the original dual saddle. Guzzi really got it right on the styling. Regarding the shifting, mine does OK but I do have slop in the linkage. This is something I hope to work out over the winter.

Great thread btw, I always learn a lot from these projects and the comments from the guzzi experts out there (not me!).
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:06 AM   #77
nick949eldo
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Guzzi Gears

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Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
If I have the clutch cable adjusted correctly, could my gear selection problems be down to the gear change linkage?
Kev,
Great looking bike! Now it just needs to get a bit dirty. On my Loops (72 Eldo and 74 California), the gear change process goes like this:

Pull in the clutch and gently but firmly press the gear lever in to first. There will probably be a bit of a clunk and perhaps a slight drag on the bars. Let the clutch out and get moving. Speed up a bit, pull in clutch, let the revs drop while you think about your girlfriend's anatomy, push firmly down on the lever until you hear that nice scrunchy sound of it going in to gear, let the clutch out then let the gear lever return to centre. Repeat. Downshifts are similar: clutch in, rev a bit, firm deliberate pressure, scrunch, clutch out. The boxes on both bikes are dead slow, but the gears are reliably there. Its part of the charm of the bikes. Think 1950's Panther- not 1970's Honda and everything will seem fine.

If the bike isn't keen to go into gear at a standstill and you have adjusted the lever/cable properly, you are probably looking at the need for new clutch plates / clutch hub in the future - but it will probably get you to Croatia and back as is.

Changing the clutch is a pain, but can be done with the engine in the frame on Loops.

As far as I am concerned, Loops are the best of all worlds. You have the look and feel of a vintage bike yet they are capable of crossing continents effortlessly and reliably. while giving decent mpg and performance. Just ride within the limits of the brakes...........

Happy New Year

Nick
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:11 PM   #78
Bloodweiser
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Yes sloppy linkage can make gear changes crappier.
Tighten that junk up as best you can.

Check out the rear of the trans - did you adjust there too?
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:10 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by Bloodweiser View Post
Check out the rear of the trans - did you adjust there too?
Have any of you actually managed to do this adjustment on the bike? if so, maybe you can tell me how I can get a 19mm spanner in there over the drive shaft,, but there is not enough room to loosen the lock nut off, and if I ever get that far, how then do you get a screwdriver in there to adjust it?
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:44 AM   #80
nick949eldo
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Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
Have any of you actually managed to do this adjustment on the bike? if so, maybe you can tell me how I can get a 19mm spanner in there over the drive shaft,, but there is not enough room to loosen the lock nut off, and if I ever get that far, how then do you get a screwdriver in there to adjust it?
It is tricky, but yes, but it can be done. I ended up making a slotted tool to go over the end of the adjuster. Don't forget, since you are operating directly on to the clutch thrust rod, tiny adjustments equate to large changes at the lever.

Nick
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:26 AM   #81
Bloodweiser
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I remember it being a real bastard anyhow.
I believe I did it twice;
once laying down in the mud
and the second time I removed the battery tray.

Take your pick,
both took about the same amount of time,
and yes it has to be in the mud.

IIRC I either used a 90degree screw driver,
or a spanner and my fingers...


Deal with your linkages at the same time
if you take your battery tray out.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:53 AM   #82
F_Sahms
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The rocker adjusting tool in the toolkit also fits the clutch arm adjuster. The nut should be smaller, like a 13mm, not a 19?
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:52 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by F_Sahms View Post
The rocker adjusting tool in the toolkit also fits the clutch arm adjuster. The nut should be smaller, like a 13mm, not a 19?
I am not talking about the clutch arm adjuster, I have already adjusted that, above that is another adjuster with a 19mm locknut, and a flat blade screwdriver slot for adjustment, that is the one I need to play with, I think.
I can't get first gear at standstill under any conditions, I have to release the clutch slightly or have the bike moving. Maybe I should just pull the rear end apart and have a look at clutch plates etc.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:48 AM   #84
nick949eldo
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Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
I am not talking about the clutch arm adjuster, I have already adjusted that, above that is another adjuster with a 19mm locknut, and a flat blade screwdriver slot for adjustment, that is the one I need to play with, I think.
I can't get first gear at standstill under any conditions, I have to release the clutch slightly or have the bike moving. Maybe I should just pull the rear end apart and have a look at clutch plates etc.
and see whether things loosen up a bit.

If you can get first gear by letting out the clutch slightly, and as long as it isn't dragging too fiercely, my response would be to ride it for a while. That sounds about normal to me. I often have often had to use the clutch a little to engage first, both before and after changing the clutch. It may just need to be used for the bike (and the rider) to settle in. Its not a Honda.

Nick
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:59 AM   #85
England-Kev OP
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Its not a Honda.
Hooray!
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:06 PM   #86
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The thing above the circled clutch arm adjuster?

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Old 12-30-2012, 01:55 PM   #87
joe cool
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F Sahms,
How is that 1000s coming along?
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:24 PM   #88
England-Kev OP
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This one, it couldn't be in a worse place to get too, and in the Clymer manual they say to cut a hole in the battery tray to adjust it!



Not ready to be that drastic just yet.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:03 PM   #89
Bloodweiser
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Well if'n you were going to take care of those sloppy linkages,
removing them should give you the room you need.

IIRC thats for the shifter return spring adjust.

Finding 1st just takes finding the knack.

Bloodweiser screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 03:10 PM
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:55 PM   #90
nick949eldo
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Originally Posted by England-Kev View Post
Hooray!
Not a Honda - but looking back over the photos I see its V700/750, not an Eldo / V850. Different gearbox - so nothing I have said will apply (except the clunkiness stuff, which is probably true for both series).

Nick
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