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Old 12-28-2012, 04:29 PM   #72271
Thumper Dan
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Australia, Northern NSW
Oddometer: 285
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
My lady got me the Oxford heated grips from Twisted Throttle for Christmas, so I thought I'd share a few quick words on them:
1 - the build quality leaves a bit to be desired. When reading through the installation instructions, they actually tell you that you will likely need to take a metal file to the inside of the grips because their rubber molding process may not leave the grips with the correct inner-diameter. This was definitely true in my case. They aren't pretty on the inside, but since the inside is now glued to my bars, I guess that doesn't matter.

2 - the wiring harness for my left grip completely fell apart as soon as I plugged them in. I wound up just soldering the wires together, and it works fine now.

3 - those two points out of the way, these grips heat up in a couple minutes, and they get damn hot. I cannot wait to try these out on the road.

4 - Right now, I just followed the instructions and wired the things straight into my battery. This does mean that any joker can come by in the parking lot, push the ON button, and kill my battery. It also means that I have to be vigilant about turning them off when I turn off the bike. Does anyone else run heated grips off that switched ignition pair that resides under our headlight shrouds? They have a 5A inline fuse, and I don't think the wattage was actually all that high.
I run the Oxford grips and find them quite good and no real dramas installing them.

I did originally run them through the "spare" wire near the headlight but with feedback from this forum, was advised to run it through a relay. I've never done a relay before so enjoyed the project of working out how to do it. Although I must say, I have a digital voltmeter on my bike and when running the heaters, it really makes no difference drawing on the battery when your underway. So, I don't think there is a terrible amount of drain on the system.

Now they've been wired up, they seem to work everytime and if you use them with products like hippo hands or even Oxford put out their own product, makes winter riding more enjoyable.
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Currently riding DR650 (2011)
Mods: Manrack, ebay 48 litre top box, grind header pipe; B&B bash plate; bigger/better tool compartment (pvc pipe) - Screens For Bikes Windscreen, TM40 Pumper Carb, Safari Tank, Seat Concepts, Oxford Heater Grips, Highway Pegs, Wolfman Expidition bags and racks, HDB handguards, Cogent Mojave rear shock, intiminators, GSX muffler/mod
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:29 PM   #72272
PPCLI-Jim
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Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'm going to be tearing my front forks apart to replace the seals and while I'm at it I'm thinking of adding a pair of intiminators. Question is should I be looking at changing the springs to? I'd like to make the forks the best they can be without replacing them all together, Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there? I probably weigh in at 200 lbs. with all my riding gear on if that makes a difference with springs etc.
yes you should from what I have been hearing / feeling with all the rest of the riders , for the smallish cost now you can then safely add weight to it by farckling up the front and ride harder on worse conditions
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:45 PM   #72273
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
Def an IMS.
I agree, IMS tank.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:51 PM   #72274
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'm going to be tearing my front forks apart to replace the seals and while I'm at it I'm thinking of adding a pair of intiminators. Question is should I be looking at changing the springs to? I'd like to make the forks the best they can be without replacing them all together, Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there? I probably weigh in at 200 lbs. with all my riding gear on if that makes a difference with springs etc.
Where and what conditions do you ride. Emulators might be a better choice, depending.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:53 PM   #72275
amk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkscism View Post
Hey guys I'm new to the forum here and new to Dual sport(ing)--can I use that as a verb? Anyways for a brief introduction I'm a nineteen year old college student in Clemson, SC. I' have never ridden street before but I raced MX for most of my childhood and teenage years. Anyways, now that my racing days are over I'm looking for the next best thing and have been looking into dual sport bikes for over a year. From what I've gathered, a DR 650 will fit my needs best. This would involve more street riding than off road with the occasional 100-200 mile trip. I've looked into buying new and used. The best asking price I've found is for a brand new 2012 model asking 5200 on the sticker. Right now (and I'm not sure for how long) Suzuki is offering 0% financing in these. With that being said, I still would consider buying used if it were, say an 04 and up model. Is it realistic that I could find a used bike that is in good enough condition and priced right to beat the $5200 0% brand new bike? Seems unlikely to me. Opinions?
Find a test ride first. Chances are you won't like it, more or less DR is old fart's bike, and it is, by its design, older than you are.
Chances are you like it, then find a used one, to buy new seems impractical. With tough environment protection acts carbed bikes will end, suzuki will either upgrade them soon or stop them altogether.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:54 PM   #72276
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I'm going to be tearing my front forks apart to replace the seals and while I'm at it I'm thinking of adding a pair of intiminators. Question is should I be looking at changing the springs to? I'd like to make the forks the best they can be without replacing them all together, Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there? I probably weigh in at 200 lbs. with all my riding gear on if that makes a difference with springs etc.
If you want them 'the best they can be' install springs and Race Tech Cartridge Emulators. If you just want to make a big improvement with a small amount of work and expense go with the Imtiminators and keep stock springs. The intiminators are designed to work best with softer springs than would otherwise be recommended with traditional valving. You can always put stiffer springs in later if you think you need them.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #72277
blk-betty
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkscism View Post
Anyways for a brief introduction I'm a nineteen year old college student in Clemson, SC..... From what I've gathered, a DR 650 will fit my needs best....The best asking price I've found is for a brand new 2012 model asking 5200 on the sticker. Right now (and I'm not sure for how long) Suzuki is offering 0% financing in these. With that being said, I still would consider buying used if it were, say an 04 and up model. Is it realistic that I could find a used bike that is in good enough condition and priced right to beat the $5200 0% brand new bike? Seems unlikely to me. Opinions?
Go Tigers, Beat LSU!

'88 Clemson Grad.

Now that the important stuff is out of the way, I went through the same decision process a little over a year ago and I think the new price at the time here in Charleston was around $5200 as well but don't know what financing was like. I found a completely stock '09 with about 5000 miles on it 2 hours away from here and paid $3800.

If time is not an issue and you have the ability to travel (couple hundred miles) you can probably find a 1-5 year old DR for $3500-4000. I then spent the difference between new and used price on a seat, windscreen, tires, handlebars, exhaust, carb jet, handguards, gas tank, luggage rack, skid plate, engine armor plates,....you get the point!



If your plans are to leave it realtively stock, why not go new. But if your like the rest of us, buy used and save some money to set it up the way you want.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #72278
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
4 - Right now, I just followed the instructions and wired the things straight into my battery. This does mean that any joker can come by in the parking lot, push the ON button, and kill my battery. It also means that I have to be vigilant about turning them off when I turn off the bike. Does anyone else run heated grips off that switched ignition pair that resides under our headlight shrouds? They have a 5A inline fuse, and I don't think the wattage was actually all that high.
I'm using the switched pair in the headlight cowl. Seems to work fine powering my heated grips. No fuse problems or any other probs in 5 years.
Thin rubber grips are the way to ... thick ones insulate too well and block heat transfer. I can feel mine down to about 20F ... below that you hardly know they are on. I'm using the Dual Star heaters. Not bad.

If you look around you may find Snow Mobile grips with higher output ... but be careful not to MELT your throttle tube ... or switch to a metal throttle tube.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:59 PM   #72279
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
I need your advice. My tank recently cracked and i had to get it welded, it cracked because it flexes too much on the rubber grommets holding it to the frame. What can i do to stop the flexing of the tabs that holt the tank down? I already got new rubber grommets.
Don't bolt them down so tightly ... allows more flex, less stress.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:02 PM   #72280
canoli
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Done!



That ought to do it. Thanks again for the help.

Canoli
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:32 PM   #72281
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Don't bolt them down so tightly ... allows more flex, less stress.
If ALL the parts are there (4 cushions, 2 collars and 2 bolts) it won't make any difference how tight the bolts are. The bolts tighten against the collars and the tank rides in the cushions. I suspect the collars are missing.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning

procycle screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 07:15 PM
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:51 PM   #72282
TRAVELGUY
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I think your going to melt you fuel line with it touching the cylinder. Since your fuel tube rotated easily turn it clockwise to three o'clock position. That will keep the fuel line away from hot things. That is what I did with my DR/Safari combo.

TrvelGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Done!



That ought to do it. Thanks again for the help.

Canoli
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:58 PM   #72283
Carl Childers
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Fork Upgrade

Thanks all for your replies, your information will help me decide. I ride about 90% off road in high desert and mountain terrain even when I take trips I keep pavement to a bare minimum.
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:12 PM   #72284
canoli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
I think your going to melt you fuel line with it touching the cylinder. Since your fuel tube rotated easily turn it clockwise to three o'clock position. That will keep the fuel line away from hot things. That is what I did with my DR/Safari combo.

TrvelGuy
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:46 PM   #72285
greener556
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I've got a 320mm EBC rotor, is there any way I can cross reference the part number and find out everything it will fit on?


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