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Old 12-30-2012, 04:38 PM   #72361
trailrider383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I was riding and the bike started to loose traction. I checked an there is a screw that went straight into the tire. I got my pump and put some air in the tire. The part with the screw in it isn't leaking any air, but the area around the tire nipple is. Any Idea what is going on?
The screw punctured the tube and the air is coming out around the hole in the rim that the valve stem pokes through.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:41 PM   #72362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I was riding and the bike started to loose traction. I checked an there is a screw that went straight into the tire. I got my pump and put some air in the tire. The part with the screw in it isn't leaking any air, but the area around the tire nipple is. Any Idea what is going on?
Screw went thru the tire and then punctured the tube. Air is leaking from the tube where the screw punctured it, but the path of least resistance to escape the tire is the gap around the nipple. The screw has made a pretty good seal in the tire.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:45 PM   #72363
doug s.
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Originally Posted by ndthl View Post
Has DRJens or anyone swapped a xf650 engine into a dr650?

I need to fix the gearbox and engine on my dr and found a xf engine, both are same model year (1997). Has anyone made this swap before?

I am in Queensland, Australia.

What would I have to modify on the engine to make it fit? Other posters here have said that I might have to swap the head as the xf has 2 carbies. Would I just be able to swap the head from my DR onto it? I am not a mechanic, pardon my n008 questions.

Wil
while i dunno for sure, i can't imagine there'd be much (if any?) mods needed as the engines are identical except for the heads. if i were contemplating this swap, i'd be more interested in finding the dual-carb set-up from the xf rather than swapping heads to get your single carb to fit. the xf heads have bigger valves, why would you want the smaller valve heads of the dr?

doug s.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:23 PM   #72364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
If I'm going to spend 5200 bucks on a bike its going to be a clean low mileage KTM....
More power to you. I would never attempt to tell anyone what (model) bike they should buy; but for what I'm going to be doing with MY DR650, you probably wouldn't want to do on any $5000 GayTeeEmm? See below:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=556240&page=6

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=669987&page=3

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=Francisco
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:16 PM   #72365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickensheets View Post
Murcan????

Ok off to get the dictionary. Again. I wish I was more read sometimes.
First you've got to spell it right. Merkin
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:16 PM   #72366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
......you probably wouldn't want to do on any $5000 GayTeeEmm?


Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
First you've got to spell it right. Merkin
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 06:23 PM
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:19 PM   #72367
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.ROB View Post
I made it through the first 1900 pages. Can't lurk any longer, purchased my first DR in Feb of 2012.
A 1990 250 sold it in April, purchased a Blue 2005 650 with 4200 miles two weeks later.
Close to stock, I shimmed the needle,desnorkled. removed the brass cover off the air fuel mixture screw,
KN air filter,renthal bars,acerbis hand guards,250 tail light. also in the process of making a skid plate.
Thanks for the helpfull information. still got some pages to read.
Scott
Welcome to the asylum.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:22 PM   #72368
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickensheets View Post
a murcan.
sat that ^^^^ many times quickly. = "american" cuz we are able to own guns.

.

Then say,.... oh-wah, tah-jer, kiam.... many times fast. If you don't get it, PM me.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:26 PM   #72369
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What the heck!

Repleced the snapped head pipe with a FMF PowerBomb. After the install and a short ride retorqued the header bolts. Admit I don't know the tq spec but thought they were damn tight.

Rode little over 100 miles today and when bike cooled checked the status of the header as someone mentioned that things may have been too tight without enough flex as a reson the OEM snapped at 6000 miles.

Well the new header was loose, no problem just tighten back up...except one of the bolts is missing.

So....what is the tq spec and why did one vibrate completely out?
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:44 PM   #72370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
What the heck!

Repleced the snapped head pipe with a FMF PowerBomb. After the install and a short ride retorqued the header bolts. Admit I don't know the tq spec but thought they were damn tight.

Rode little over 100 miles today and when bike cooled checked the status of the header as someone mentioned that things may have been too tight without enough flex as a reson the OEM snapped at 6000 miles.

Well the new header was loose, no problem just tighten back up...except one of the bolts is missing.

So....what is the tq spec and why did one vibrate completely out?
Locktight is your friend. Without locktight or a lock washer, most things will vibrate undone. Heating and cooling makes things even worse.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:39 PM   #72371
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
What the heck!

Repleced the snapped head pipe with a FMF PowerBomb. After the install and a short ride retorqued the header bolts. Admit I don't know the tq spec but thought they were damn tight.

Rode little over 100 miles today and when bike cooled checked the status of the header as someone mentioned that things may have been too tight without enough flex as a reson the OEM snapped at 6000 miles.

Well the new header was loose, no problem just tighten back up...except one of the bolts is missing.

So....what is the tq spec and why did one vibrate completely out?
I don't know the torque spec ... but if in doubt tighten it up where you had it on the install ... but this time USE LOC TITE! It will stay put.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:42 PM   #72372
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Funny - I found a def for "Murcan" and slang uses 'mercan (American) but PC's Merkin looks a lot more entertaining. I didn't see one listed on their site, thank goodness....
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:32 PM   #72373
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Question Loc Tite ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I don't know the torque spec ... but if in doubt tighten it up where you had it on the install ... but this time USE LOC TITE! It will stay put.
Loc Tite on the header bolts?
I use anti-seize so I can get them out.

How many use Loc Tite in this application?
And do you use blue or red Loc Tite on the extremely hot exhaust header bolts?

I do use Loc Tite just about everywhere else.


blk-betty - did you put in a new gasket with the new pipe?


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Old 12-30-2012, 09:43 PM   #72374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Loc Tite on the header bolts?
I use anti-seize so I can get them out.

How many use Loc Tite in this application?
And do you use blue or red Loc Tite on the extremely hot exhaust header bolts?

I do use Loc Tite just about everywhere else.


blk-betty - did you put in a new gasket with the new pipe?


I've used both, but tend to go with Blue Loctite. Don't need it every time as it'll clag up a bit with the residue in there and do the job. Something, Loctite, or antiseize, reduces or eliminates the corrosion and bonding, so both work, but low strength Loctite is good.

Its also possible that the header didn't quite snug up, and after a heating cooling cycle, did, and there was then no tension on the bolts. A new gasket can exacerbate this behaviour.

Heat also weakens Loctite, so if you are trying to pull something apart, especially small screws, some heat can assist by not only expanding things, but weakening the Loctite.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:28 PM   #72375
canoli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Thanks for posting, I was looking at the Safari over the IMS, but the truth is, I'll never go that for and thus need the extra range. I appreciate your scientific research.
Scientific

No worries. If I was back in the states I would totally go with the IMS. Adds just the right amount of range and looks right on the bike.


Cheers,

Canoli
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