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Old 12-31-2012, 03:08 PM   #32161
Bgunn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
Catching a lot of PMs.......patience Grasshoppers....

The ravens are starting to circle.....


Happy New Year...... and may "team orange" treat you well in 2013 !!
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:23 PM   #32162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerraUnFirma View Post
Without searching through the entire thread for comments, what's recommended in terms of a shop manual?

I see Haynes has one...how is it? I know on some models they can be hit and miss. Can always spring for the Yamaha manual, but it's 3x the price. Mostly looking for torque values, wiring diagrams, etc...hopefully not going to have to worry about a major rebuild of anything.
HAYNES does NOT have a WRR manual. The one they have is for 1998-2008 YZs and WR-Fs.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:11 AM   #32163
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Happy 2013!

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Old 01-01-2013, 12:40 AM   #32164
Joe Watson
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Well, it's the last time the WR will look like this. It is going back to pretty much stock everything, ready to sell.

Smiley face
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:13 AM   #32165
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Nice vid indy, what tire setup are you running?
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:19 AM   #32166
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Nice vid indy, what tire setup are you running?
Thanks Shep! I'm running Dunlop MX51's right now. I put them on back in November in preparation to run an enduro. They're not D/S tires and are off road only. They roost like crazy. I'm usually covered in mud/snow by the time I'm done riding.
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2007 ST1300, 2008 KLR650, 2008 WR290R Supermoto, 1995 Ninja 250R
My goal in life is to be as good as a person as my dog already thinks I am.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:43 AM   #32167
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Indy that was a fun vid.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:54 AM   #32168
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Indy that was a fun vid.
Thanks, I actually put some effort into making this one...lol ;)
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My goal in life is to be as good as a person as my dog already thinks I am.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:50 AM   #32169
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Originally Posted by Joe Watson View Post
Well, it's the last time the WR will look like this. It is going back to pretty much stock everything, ready to sell.

Nice setup, I wish you did not live half way around the world...
I would be a buyer of some of the stuff..
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:20 AM   #32170
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HDB top clamp and ignition key

I'm in the process of installing the HDB guards and top clamp and noticed that it is going to be tough to get the key in/out. In fact, with the top clamp on, I can't get the key in at all.

Here are some pictures of the key with the point to the front and to the back and a view from the top.







I was reading on basher's site that he used his dremel to remove the point and make it rounded which is a really cool idea. But I'm concerned that it is not going to help since I can't get the key in at all right now.

Thanks
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:29 AM   #32171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I'm in the process of installing the HDB guards and top clamp and noticed that it is going to be tough to get the key in/out. In fact, with the top clamp on, I can't get the key in at all.

Here are some pictures of the key with the point to the front and to the back and a view from the top.

I was reading on basher's site that he used his dremel to remove the point and make it rounded which is a really cool idea. But I'm concerned that it is not going to help since I can't get the key in at all right now.

Thanks
I live in Ohio but our local ACE hardware store has Yamaha blank keys and will cut you a extra key. The key they sell does not have the black plastic on it. The last one I had cut was $2.50. You could get a couple made and do all the Dremel trimming you wanted on it.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:05 AM   #32172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW-K View Post
Might I ask why you're going away from the Yammie?
The short answer is two blown top ends in one year.....cause/effect unclear......Reving the snot out of a small bore is a blast, but at what cost? After two top ends I no longer have faith in the integrity of the bottom end.....it just doesn't make economic sense to rebuild this bike again. I *may* opt to shop for a lightly ridden "stock" WR250R and jump over accessories/part out remainder from both bikes but I'm more inclined to move on now that KTM has fuel injected 350/450/500......we'll see....I really had a blast with the WR...
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:15 AM   #32173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawdaddy View Post
...I'm more inclined to move on now that KTM has fuel injected 350/450/500....
You sound like me...I love my WRR, but will probably end up riding orange someday soon.
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don't do that...but if you do FILM IT!
2014 KTM 350 XCF-W ISDE
2007 ST1300, 2008 KLR650, 2008 WR290R Supermoto, 1995 Ninja 250R
My goal in life is to be as good as a person as my dog already thinks I am.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:56 AM   #32174
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ba_ View Post
I'm in the process of installing the HDB guards and top clamp and noticed that it is going to be tough to get the key in/out. In fact, with the top clamp on, I can't get the key in at all.

Here are some pictures of the key with the point to the front and to the back and a view from the top.
I was reading on basher's site that he used his dremel to remove the point and make it rounded which is a really cool idea. But I'm concerned that it is not going to help since I can't get the key in at all right now.

Thanks
I wish I could help ba_ ; I have the same HDB top clamp, but mine is on top of a Scotts submount so it gives a inch of clearance for the key. If you are using stock handlebar mounts you could get a 1inch spacer to raise them enough to give key clearance.
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2013 TEX XC,2011 WR250R,2004 KAWA Concours,1994 BMW K1100RS
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:13 AM   #32175
ba_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
I wish I could help ba_ ; I have the same HDB top clamp, but mine is on top of a Scotts submount so it gives a inch of clearance for the key. If you are using stock handlebar mounts you could get a 1inch spacer to raise them enough to give key clearance.
Thanks for the idea. I'm using the GYTR lower clamps for 1 1/8" bars. I'm not sure why I bought these instead of buying lowers from Paul...
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