A simple, logical way to find the correct TDC for valve adjustments is to remove all the necessary parts...seat, tank, adjuster covers, spark plug, left side access plugs, etc. On the manual decomp models, make the necessary adjustments to insure the decomp won't interfere with adjustments. Rotate the crank shaft in the direction the motor runs and watch the intake valves (closest to the carb). When the adjuster screw pushes the intake valve down (open) and it returns back up (closed) the next TDC mark that shows up in the access window is the correct position. "Turn the crankshaft untill the engraved line on the magneto rotor is aligned with the center of the hole on the magneto cover" Works on all 4 stroke motors. On most motors, you can put a "tool" down the spark plug hole and watch the up and down motion to be sure you're in the right spot, but that's really not necessary. If you do this, be sure to use something that won't damage anything or break off in there.
Don't know anything about the build but I can tell just by looking that it's not right. That thing is a piece of crap and whatever you paid for it, you were hosed. It will likely prove dangerous, unreliable and boring. Tell you what... I'll take it off your hands right now for half what you paid. You can cut your losses and I'll see if I can save the old dog.
I happen to have a main wiring loom for little doctor. Taken from almost new bike when it was modufied to be more offroad capable at nineties. Pm if interested.
My bike started popping and backfiring while on a 2 hr ride a few weeks ago... As the trip progressed, the backfiring got worse. It started out only being under acceleration and nothing noticeable, then it started bogging down and barely made it to my destination. I cleaned the air filter, reoiled it and that didn't work. I then checked the plug, gapped correctly and the correct color. I doubt its the carb, I just rebuilt that. Possible the coil? Has anyone used the aftermarket coils available on fleebay?
I'm not sure if these are what you would consider 50/50, but the Michelin T63's have been working well for me commuting, doing slab to the trails, and riding dirt roads of many different qualities. Decent tread life so far. BikeBandit has them for around $70/ea ($74 for 130/80-18), but I don't know if that's the best price.
Did you replace the O rings when you rebuilt the carb - had similar symptoms a couple of years ago on a trail ride and it turned out to be the O ring that holds the float cage in place had broken up, making the mixture really rich.
My air/fuel screw came out one time and caused simular symptoms(popping and backfiring) at less than 4500rpm's It's the screw on the bottom front of the carb; I replaced it with the extended screw from keintech, has a spring and oring I think
Did anyone else see these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/290826731620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Agree - but that's what I found......or at least, replacing the O rings restored the bike to normal running. I suppose one check would be to pull the choke when the problem is happening and if it gets better then lean is the problem (probably an air leak then).
Before you go tearing into your carb inspect your exhaust, if its loose it can be letting air into the exhaust and that gives the hot gases fresh air to ignite. This usually happens when you let off the gas with higher rpms. If its not the exhaust its most likely the carb
Interesting. I don't recall ever seeing these in the spare parts catalogs. An aftermarket piece from Germany, perhaps??? Looks like a well put together kit, although I don't really see any truly useful need for them on the DR350. Regards, Gregory Bender
I agree Greg , bit of bling really .Hell I have dropped my DR so many times at speed and in some really awful places and never damaged the engine .
Another noob DR350 Question. Yesterday I replaced the rear tire. Does it matter which side of the bike the axle nut is on. I looked it over and it looks no different except the locknut is now on the left of the bike instead of the right.
No harm not foul. Personally I fund it much easier to get the wheel on when the axle is holding the caliper mount in place.
for anyone interested I'm parting with my Pivotpegz that I've had on my 99SE. They work great for dualsport riding and are super wide. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20379304#post20379304
Thanks.. Your right those 2 spacers and the caliper mount can be a PITA. I used a MC jack and just kept lowering it until everything lined up.
