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Old 01-02-2013, 01:17 PM   #31
tvpierce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HapHazard View Post
...and thank YOU for not commenting on my embarrassing mess.
I don't know about the mess... but it looks like Mel Gibson's apartment in Conspiracy Theory.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:04 PM   #32
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I would just use some R19-R30 insulating batts with paper facing and staple the facing to the bottoms of the Joists. If your bays are too wide for 24" batts then you can use thin galvanized wire strung accross the joists about every 16-24" using roofing nailson each joist and wrap the wire around each nail. That creates a wire tray basically for your insulation to lay on.

In walls you can do the same technique to hold the insulation back into the stub bays.
This technique works great if you want to use thicker insulation that your studs or joists are....R13 is 3-1/2" thick and R30 is 10"....you could put R30 in a 2x4 joist or stud bay using the wire to retain it without over compressing it.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by tvpierce View Post
I don't know about the mess... but it looks like Mel Gibson's apartment in Conspiracy Theory.
Or Andy Warhol's Silver Factory:



But it is a lot brighter with the same amount of electric light, and that's good.
Warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer, brighter all year 'round? Keep yer boring shit-rock!

(Hmm.. If I make some room, I could get a couch in there)
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:06 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HapHazard View Post
Or Andy Warhol's Silver Factory:



But it is a lot brighter with the same amount of electric light, and that's good.
Warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer, brighter all year 'round? Keep yer boring shit-rock!

(Hmm.. If I make some room, I could get a couch in there)
Are you hiding these guys in there somewhere?

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Old 01-02-2013, 06:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
I would just use some R19-R30 insulating batts with paper facing and staple the facing to the bottoms of the Joists. If your bays are too wide for 24" batts then you can use thin galvanized wire strung accross the joists about every 16-24" using roofing nailson each joist and wrap the wire around each nail. That creates a wire tray basically for your insulation to lay on.

In walls you can do the same technique to hold the insulation back into the stub bays.
This technique works great if you want to use thicker insulation that your studs or joists are....R13 is 3-1/2" thick and R30 is 10"....you could put R30 in a 2x4 joist or stud bay using the wire to retain it without over compressing it.
Sounds itchy. I'm liking the bright shiny bubble stuff idea so far. Sounds like an easy project.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:41 PM   #36
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Insulation

Consider 2" of styrofoam on the roof joists. It will allow the hot summer air to go up in the chase you have created. Easy stuff to use, cut it with a carpenters saw, use caulk/roof nails with washers to install it. No mold or vector problem like fiber glass. If you want to go with fiber glass go with foil faced, it will reflect light/heat. Doesn't have the flame spread problem like paper faced fiber glass does. If you are working with scissor or regular trusses, etc You might want to consider putting chicken wire across the joists with a staple gun. Start stapling a couple courses of 24" chicken wire with the bonded edges. Then you can start a roll of insulation or bats between the joists, gives it a nice clean look.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:53 PM   #37
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What about this stuff? Insulfoam R-Tech 1V. 2" thick 4x8 panels are about $20 at Home Depot. So I could do the ceiling for about $900.

http://www.insulfoam.com/images/stor...6081_RT_IV.pdf

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Old 01-09-2013, 11:29 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTCHIEF View Post
. If you are working with scissor or regular trusses, etc You might want to consider putting chicken wire across the joists with a staple gun. Start stapling a couple courses of 24" chicken wire with the bonded edges. Then you can start a roll of insulation or bats between the joists, gives it a nice clean look.
you got a pic of this somewhere? i understand the concept - just wanted to see how this looks in real life...
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:49 PM   #39
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I got the Monitor 30 vented kero heater going today in "The Silver Factory", after < 2 hours the thermostat turned off the burner:



Top temp is inside the TekFoil insulated 20x24 portion of the garage. Bottom temp is the other 20x30 portion of garage.

I was working on the bike in shirtsleeves - and snowmobile boots (the floor is cold on the feet).

This stuff works!

Mel Gibson, Andy Warhol, Dr Evil & Mini Me would all be comfy, too.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:20 AM   #40
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Plain YES!
Even if you put in drop ceiling or anything else, highest R-value for the roof.
Saves money big time.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:53 AM   #41
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Did you decide on how to insulate your roof?
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:55 AM   #42
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Did you decide on how to insulate your roof?
I think I'm going to use the panels I talked about in my last post.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:59 PM   #43
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I think I'm going to use the panels I talked about in my last post.
What's the r factor on the panels?

I was thinking the closed cell spray foam for my 30'x40' but the cheapest I could find was $2900 for 2"

Came across a video of guy installing closed cell panels and using the great stuff spray cans on the edges to seal it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:18 PM   #44
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What's the r factor on the panels?

I was thinking the closed cell spray foam for my 30'x40' but the cheapest I could find was $2900 for 2"

Came across a video of guy installing closed cell panels and using the great stuff spray cans on the edges to seal it.

The r value is in this link: http://www.insulfoam.com/images/stor...6081_RT_IV.pdf
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:31 AM   #45
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Which thickness were you considering? Looks like about R5 per inch. Any thoughts on installation?

sanjoh screwed with this post 01-17-2013 at 09:37 AM
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