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Old 01-02-2013, 10:51 AM   #72436
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
DO NOT do what Emm said and crank the engine with the spark plug hanging on by only a few threads! Not only is the piston going to push air out..it sucks air in. Also, a DR cranks with about 100-130 PSI of cranking compression and only having 2-3 threads on a plug and cranking can lead to damaged threads.
Relax - I'm not saying he should start the engine - this is an emergency measure where you have to stop sand getting into the hole. A couple of quick starter pushes are not going to damage anything. I've done it many times.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:59 AM   #72437
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I used to use tire irons like these and pinched alot of tubes.


Then I bought a set of these and it's been easy since.








Keeping the tire down in the rim is paramount. It also helps to put some air in the tube. just enough to make it round and that helps it stay outta the way of the irons. be sure to use soapy water as a lubricant.
I have the red handle tire irons ... great! Very easy on tubes!
I put air in my tube once the get the TUBE in the tire .... this to straighten it out and make sure there are no "folds" in the tube.

BUT ... after that ... I pull the valve stem OUT and 100% deflate it. Too much air in the tube will make mounting the tire much tougher.
Don't ask me how I know this!!

Some guys use wood or plastic wedges to force and HOLD tire bead/side wall down into wheel well. The Zip Tie method does a similar thing ... but compresses BOTH sides of the tire ... allowing the tire beads to drop in. Makes spooning on the tire easier.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:15 PM   #72438
planemanx15
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Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:25 PM   #72439
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
5. When you're out getting your tire lube and bead buddy also pick up another ten dollar item: a tire valve 'snake' (I forget the real name). It.s a little piece of wire attached to a threaded bit that will thread into the valve of the tube. This little item will save you bruised and battered hands and a lot of cussing getting the valve stem in through the hole in the wheel.

It takes some practice. You'll get it and learn your own tricks on the way.

...............shu
Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

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Old 01-02-2013, 02:32 PM   #72440
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #72441
redfishguide
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For me the easiest way is to put the tube in the tire with a little bit of air then position the tire with the valve stem near the rim hole. Pull the stem away from the tire and push through the hole get a couple of turns with the nut then continue to mount the tire. Actually quite easy when you have done it a time or two. No more buised fingers and no need for gimicky accessories.

Jack



Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:48 PM   #72442
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.
If your just changing out tires and not the tube, there is no need to remove that stem from the rim. Your creating more work for yourself. Simply remove the tube with the stem still installed after you remove the top bead from the rim, and tuck it under the brake disc. The go ahead and remove the rest of the tire.
Keep the tube tucked under the disc and take your new tire and push it over the tube in the stem area and spoon the tire back on.
No stem removal needed.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:33 PM   #72443
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Question Crank Breather Hose

OK, for a break from our regularly scheduled tire changing discussion, it is time for a mental exercise.

I am using a pod filter and don't want to run the breather hose around to the far end and drill a hole for it.

My thought is of running the stock hose location up through the frame for high point and then running the hose down near the swingarm pivot and adding either a small catch tank or another small filter (like the carb breather) on the end of it. I don't know how much oil actually makes it out of the crank case, up to the top fitting, and then down the second hose.

Your recommendations?




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Old 01-02-2013, 04:14 PM   #72444
TrophyHunter
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To keep the CLEAN look of that thing, I'd just run it up - L fitting - catch area dropped down on a T fitting after a short hose - other side of T - breather filter.

Nicely done,
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:18 PM   #72445
JTB488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
I have the Procycle HID kit, ran it all summer with ZERO problems. And yes it is plug and play, just need to run a wire to the battery and to a ground.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:27 PM   #72446
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
i can't speak for the procycle kit, but my ddm tuning kit was pretty-much plug-n-play, and it hasn't failed in a year. have you contacted them about it? from the research i did before buying, the ddm kits are supposed to be wery reliable... if you have had two failures in 3 months, maybe you have some other wiring harness issue?

doug s.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:02 PM   #72447
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Cool2 Breather

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
To keep the CLEAN look of that thing, I'd just run it up - L fitting - catch area dropped down on a T fitting after a short hose - other side of T - breather filter.

Nicely done,
Thanks, I do want to keep it as clean and uncluttered as possible.

I am on final assembly and paint now.
Waiting for my new oil cooler to be shipped, the one that I got the "shipping notice and tracking number" for on Friday, that tracking shows hasn't been even delivered to UPS yet....

I guess that is the new business model for customer service, Charge you and print out the tracking label, and then ship it... later.

I only have the oil cooler and oil lines to do on the mechanical part, and paint the seat and tank, and the DR Street Tracker will be finished.

Then I will do a build thread full of pictures for everyone's amusement.

It has been a fun build and a great learning experience.
Now I get to learn how to paint.
I bought an HVLP gun, how hard can it be?
That's what I thought when I decided to make my own fiberglass gas tank...
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:40 PM   #72448
Feelers
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Thanks, I do want to keep it as clean and uncluttered as possible.

I am on final assembly and paint now.
Waiting for my new oil cooler to be shipped, the one that I got the "shipping notice and tracking number" for on Friday, that tracking shows hasn't been even delivered to UPS yet....

I guess that is the new business model for customer service, Charge you and print out the tracking label, and then ship it... later.

I only have the oil cooler and oil lines to do on the mechanical part, and paint the seat and tank, and the DR Street Tracker will be finished.

Then I will do a build thread full of pictures for everyone's amusement.

It has been a fun build and a great learning experience.
Now I get to learn how to paint.
I bought an HVLP gun, how hard can it be?
That's what I thought when I decided to make my own fiberglass gas tank...
Not to be the redneck around here, but I have done excellent painting work with just spray paint.
I used to HATE HATE HATE painting because I am a perfectionist so I went to all the trouble for a great prepping job and stuff, but then the paint would get scratched or marred or stained with gas pretty quickly. So much for all my hard work. However, I found some aerosol 2-part "2k" clear coat that is awesome! Tough, gas resistant, etc! It's a bit pricey, but I will use it for every bike related paint job I ever do in the future! Oh, it's made by Spraymax!
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:51 PM   #72449
planemanx15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
i can't speak for the procycle kit, but my ddm tuning kit was pretty-much plug-n-play, and it hasn't failed in a year. have you contacted them about it? from the research i did before buying, the ddm kits are supposed to be wery reliable... if you have had two failures in 3 months, maybe you have some other wiring harness issue?

doug s.
Thats what I'm starting to think, but ive never had a problem with a regular bulb. I can't return the DDM kit because I ended up haking a lot of it away to make it fit and to get the wires back to the battery... I basicaly made a mess, but everything seemed to be working. I want to try the procycle kit, but dont want to waste $80 if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere in my bike.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:59 PM   #72450
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Thats what I'm starting to think, but ive never had a problem with a regular bulb. I can't return the DDM kit because I ended up haking a lot of it away to make it fit and to get the wires back to the battery... I basicaly made a mess, but everything seemed to be working. I want to try the procycle kit, but dont want to waste $80 if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere in my bike.
I've responded to you before on this (I think?) so, sorry if 205.
My DDM single bulb kits are now both over two years old. (two different bikes) The single bulb set up require NO running of wires. Its truly Plug & Play. You simply plug into H-4 plug and plug ballast and igniter together ... so easy. Its quite bright ... so I found no need for HI and LO beam. My high beam is OFF which is handy for starting or when running a lot of accessories in daylight.

My other bike has two headlights ... so the low beam side is the HID, hi beam side is stock. I intend to replace it with another DDM Tuning HID in near future.

The Single bulb units I think are up to $25 ... not a bad deal. I think a spare HID bulb is $12. Good luck.
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