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Old 01-02-2013, 07:27 PM   #72421
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
i can't speak for the procycle kit, but my ddm tuning kit was pretty-much plug-n-play, and it hasn't failed in a year. have you contacted them about it? from the research i did before buying, the ddm kits are supposed to be wery reliable... if you have had two failures in 3 months, maybe you have some other wiring harness issue?

doug s.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:02 PM   #72422
JagLite
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
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Cool2 Breather

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
To keep the CLEAN look of that thing, I'd just run it up - L fitting - catch area dropped down on a T fitting after a short hose - other side of T - breather filter.

Nicely done,
Thanks, I do want to keep it as clean and uncluttered as possible.

I am on final assembly and paint now.
Waiting for my new oil cooler to be shipped, the one that I got the "shipping notice and tracking number" for on Friday, that tracking shows hasn't been even delivered to UPS yet....

I guess that is the new business model for customer service, Charge you and print out the tracking label, and then ship it... later.

I only have the oil cooler and oil lines to do on the mechanical part, and paint the seat and tank, and the DR Street Tracker will be finished.

Then I will do a build thread full of pictures for everyone's amusement.

It has been a fun build and a great learning experience.
Now I get to learn how to paint.
I bought an HVLP gun, how hard can it be?
That's what I thought when I decided to make my own fiberglass gas tank...
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:40 PM   #72423
Feelers
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Thanks, I do want to keep it as clean and uncluttered as possible.

I am on final assembly and paint now.
Waiting for my new oil cooler to be shipped, the one that I got the "shipping notice and tracking number" for on Friday, that tracking shows hasn't been even delivered to UPS yet....

I guess that is the new business model for customer service, Charge you and print out the tracking label, and then ship it... later.

I only have the oil cooler and oil lines to do on the mechanical part, and paint the seat and tank, and the DR Street Tracker will be finished.

Then I will do a build thread full of pictures for everyone's amusement.

It has been a fun build and a great learning experience.
Now I get to learn how to paint.
I bought an HVLP gun, how hard can it be?
That's what I thought when I decided to make my own fiberglass gas tank...
Not to be the redneck around here, but I have done excellent painting work with just spray paint.
I used to HATE HATE HATE painting because I am a perfectionist so I went to all the trouble for a great prepping job and stuff, but then the paint would get scratched or marred or stained with gas pretty quickly. So much for all my hard work. However, I found some aerosol 2-part "2k" clear coat that is awesome! Tough, gas resistant, etc! It's a bit pricey, but I will use it for every bike related paint job I ever do in the future! Oh, it's made by Spraymax!
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:51 PM   #72424
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
i can't speak for the procycle kit, but my ddm tuning kit was pretty-much plug-n-play, and it hasn't failed in a year. have you contacted them about it? from the research i did before buying, the ddm kits are supposed to be wery reliable... if you have had two failures in 3 months, maybe you have some other wiring harness issue?

doug s.
Thats what I'm starting to think, but ive never had a problem with a regular bulb. I can't return the DDM kit because I ended up haking a lot of it away to make it fit and to get the wires back to the battery... I basicaly made a mess, but everything seemed to be working. I want to try the procycle kit, but dont want to waste $80 if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere in my bike.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:59 PM   #72425
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Thats what I'm starting to think, but ive never had a problem with a regular bulb. I can't return the DDM kit because I ended up haking a lot of it away to make it fit and to get the wires back to the battery... I basicaly made a mess, but everything seemed to be working. I want to try the procycle kit, but dont want to waste $80 if there is an electrical gremlin somewhere in my bike.
I've responded to you before on this (I think?) so, sorry if 205.
My DDM single bulb kits are now both over two years old. (two different bikes) The single bulb set up require NO running of wires. Its truly Plug & Play. You simply plug into H-4 plug and plug ballast and igniter together ... so easy. Its quite bright ... so I found no need for HI and LO beam. My high beam is OFF which is handy for starting or when running a lot of accessories in daylight.

My other bike has two headlights ... so the low beam side is the HID, hi beam side is stock. I intend to replace it with another DDM Tuning HID in near future.

The Single bulb units I think are up to $25 ... not a bad deal. I think a spare HID bulb is $12. Good luck.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:39 AM   #72426
gippyphil
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
Oddometer: 50
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
There are rubber cones (parts 12 &13 in the attached diagram)that are probably deformed. They will go back to their original shape as soon as you unclamp the bars.
You were spot on Rusty - as soon as I top the top clamp off, it popped right back



And the bars were definitely bent!



And the new ones were a mild pain in ass to put on (not a lot of slack in all those cables) and the knurling on the left made it hard work to get the mirror/clutch bracket back on, but I got there in the end (still have to tighten up all the controls).



I just have to put the new grips on (Renthal dual compound, half waffle), but I have a few n00b questions:
  1. Is there any special trick with applying the grip glue, or do you just smear it on and push the grips home?
  2. Is there any special trick with putting the Bark Busters back on the left grip, or do you just cut a hole in the end of the grip?
  3. Based on the pic below, does the 'waffle' on the right hand side point to the front of the bike, or the back, or somewhere else?



Thanks for all your assistance - this is a great community!
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:04 AM   #72427
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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A good idea is to get a different perch for the clutch, a 2 piece one that clamps over the bar and can be replaced any time without taking off the grip and switch block and elimates any bar knurling issues too.

I have had most success fitting grips by using brake cleaner as a lube to slide the new grips on. I then use maybe 7 wraps of stainless tie wire to secure them. The brake cleaner sort of dissolves a bit of the grip and creates a light bond to the bar.

The waffle goes where you finger tips are. The grips normally have an up arrow or similar as a guide.



You can see the tie wire in the pic above.

I use a Dremel to remove the end of the grip to mount the Barkbusters. A stone or cutter works fine. A wad punch will also work, but the end has to come out.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:18 AM   #72428
gippyphil
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
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Thanks Berg, took me a minute to realise that was a DR650 in the picture - I really should read your build thread!

I notice the old bars had what looks like a locating hole for the choke/indicator cluster - I didn't seem to have any trouble getting this all back on the new bars - I assume I don't need the hole then?
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:03 AM   #72429
chethro
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Location: WV
Oddometer: 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I've responded to you before on this (I think?) so, sorry if 205.
My DDM single bulb kits are now both over two years old. (two different bikes) The single bulb set up require NO running of wires. Its truly Plug & Play. You simply plug into H-4 plug and plug ballast and igniter together ... so easy. Its quite bright ... so I found no need for HI and LO beam. My high beam is OFF which is handy for starting or when running a lot of accessories in daylight.

My other bike has two headlights ... so the low beam side is the HID, hi beam side is stock. I intend to replace it with another DDM Tuning HID in near future.

The Single bulb units I think are up to $25 ... not a bad deal. I think a spare HID bulb is $12. Good luck.

So, did you use the 35 watt or 55 watt and 5000k for bulb color?
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:37 AM   #72430
gippyphil
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Well I finished the bar installation - I ended up having to file down the locating pins inside the two electrical boxes (there are locating holes on the stock bars), but the worst thing was the right hand grip was completely bonded to the throttle tube! I tried cutting it back, but that wasn't happening, so I just used a sanding disk on the grinder to remove the bulk of the rubber as best I could, then slid (forced!) the new grip down over the top. It went on a little naff looking, but there's no way it's ever slipping Thankfully the bark busters didn't need too much adjustment (besides taking off a sleeve on the expanding locking pin), and the whole set up is now much more comfortable for me!
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:56 AM   #72431
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chethro View Post
So, did you use the 35 watt or 55 watt and 5000k for bulb color?
i have the hi-lo kit, and w/the 35w it's still way bright enough. i would also recommend the 4500k, unless you like that blue look. even the 4500 is so much whiter than the stock halogen lights. it's almost verging on blue, and i don't like the blue look, so for me, 4500k is the way to go.

doug s.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:59 AM   #72432
Nullarbor63
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Location: Western Australia
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.

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)[/QUOTE]

You have a GSF12 and you've never cleaned out the spark plugholes before? I'm surprised. I have an RF900 (basically the same motor) and I clean mine every time I pull the plugs. Maybe we get more dirt over here. Everyone's talking about ways to blow air down the holes. I suck. I really do. I have a piece of plastic conduit just large enough to slide over the plugs, and it's sleeved up with progressively larger bits of conduit till it fits in the end of my vaccuum cleaner hose (the old one in my shed). Before I pull the plugs I drop the conduit adapter over each plug and suck the dirt out. I run around the base of the plug with a long screwdiver blade to loosen any baked on shit, then suck it out again. Then I pull the plug and suck the last bits before I put the new plug in. This carries the risk of your vaccuum cleaner exploding with petrol fumes, but danger adds a little spice to life, don't you think? And exploding vaccuum cleaners are as funny as shit! :)
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:06 AM   #72433
Nullarbor63
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Location: Western Australia
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  1. Is there any special trick with applying the grip glue, or do you just smear it on and push the grips home?
A wise old Yoda once told me to spray hair spray onto the bar, then push the grip straight on while it's still wet. It worked. Bit of a bastard to get off though. I guess that's because hair spray is basically varnish. Cheap though.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:40 AM   #72434
gippyphil
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
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The guy at the shop threw in a tube of "grip glue" which as far as I can work out is basically superglue. It is messy and stinks, and I'm still picking it off my fingers, but I'm sure it's effective (as would be the other methods suggested)
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:05 AM   #72435
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gippyphil View Post
You were spot on Rusty - as soon as I top the top clamp off, it popped right back


That was a problem I had on my KDX's years ago. I used to race enduros on them. They had the rubber cones and every time you fell and hit the bars with any force, they would twist like that. The solution was a metal "bridge" that was the right size to put all 4 handlebar clamp bolts through it and make it a one piece top clamp. (my KTM has it ) Then it couldn't twist like yours did. I wish there was a clamp like that avail for the DR. I ride mostly offroad and have had that twist happen. Fortunately while it's not a race, I can take the time to loosen the clamps and straighten the whole deal. I have marked my bars with a scratch mark where they line up with the clamp so I can get them back into the correct position without any trial and error.
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