the DR650 thread

[gippyphil]

Thanks Berg, took me a minute to realise that was a DR650 in the picture - I really should read your build thread!

I notice the old bars had what looks like a locating hole for the choke/indicator cluster - I didn't seem to have any trouble getting this all back on the new bars - I assume I don't need the hole then?

[chethro]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

I've responded to you before on this (I think?) so, sorry if 205.
My DDM single bulb kits are now both over two years old. (two different bikes) The single bulb set up require NO running of wires. Its truly Plug & Play. You simply plug into H-4 plug and plug ballast and igniter together ... so easy. Its quite bright ... so I found no need for HI and LO beam. My high beam is OFF which is handy for starting or when running a lot of accessories in daylight.

My other bike has two headlights ... so the low beam side is the HID, hi beam side is stock. I intend to replace it with another DDM Tuning HID in near future.

The Single bulb units I think are up to $25 ... not a bad deal. I think a spare HID bulb is $12. Good luck.

So, did you use the 35 watt or 55 watt and 5000k for bulb color?

[gippyphil]

Well I finished the bar installation - I ended up having to file down the locating pins inside the two electrical boxes (there are locating holes on the stock bars), but the worst thing was the right hand grip was completely bonded to the throttle tube! I tried cutting it back, but that wasn't happening, so I just used a sanding disk on the grinder to remove the bulk of the rubber as best I could, then slid (forced!) the new grip down over the top. It went on a little naff looking, but there's no way it's ever slipping Thankfully the bark busters didn't need too much adjustment (besides taking off a sleeve on the expanding locking pin), and the whole set up is now much more comfortable for me!

[doug s.]

Originally Posted by chethro

So, did you use the 35 watt or 55 watt and 5000k for bulb color?

i have the hi-lo kit, and w/the 35w it's still way bright enough. i would also recommend the 4500k, unless you like that blue look. even the 4500 is so much whiter than the stock halogen lights. it's almost verging on blue, and i don't like the blue look, so for me, 4500k is the way to go.

doug s.

[Nullarbor63]

.

**EDIT** Anyone have any hints for getting sand out from around the spark plugs before I pull the plugs? I blasted out the holes as best I could with carb cleaner, but i dont have compressed air since I have no power (bikes at a storage place). They look clean now, but im mostly worried about sand/dirt that might be hiding under the thermistor for the vapor tach (on outside spark plug). Any tips would be cool :)[/QUOTE]

You have a GSF12 and you've never cleaned out the spark plugholes before? I'm surprised. I have an RF900 (basically the same motor) and I clean mine every time I pull the plugs. Maybe we get more dirt over here. Everyone's talking about ways to blow air down the holes. I suck. I really do. I have a piece of plastic conduit just large enough to slide over the plugs, and it's sleeved up with progressively larger bits of conduit till it fits in the end of my vaccuum cleaner hose (the old one in my shed). Before I pull the plugs I drop the conduit adapter over each plug and suck the dirt out. I run around the base of the plug with a long screwdiver blade to loosen any baked on shit, then suck it out again. Then I pull the plug and suck the last bits before I put the new plug in. This carries the risk of your vaccuum cleaner exploding with petrol fumes, but danger adds a little spice to life, don't you think? And exploding vaccuum cleaners are as funny as shit! :)

[Nullarbor63]

1. Is there any special trick with applying the grip glue, or do you just smear it on and push the grips home?

A wise old Yoda once told me to spray hair spray onto the bar, then push the grip straight on while it's still wet. It worked. Bit of a bastard to get off though. I guess that's because hair spray is basically varnish. Cheap though.

[gippyphil]

The guy at the shop threw in a tube of "grip glue" which as far as I can work out is basically superglue. It is messy and stinks, and I'm still picking it off my fingers, but I'm sure it's effective (as would be the other methods suggested)

[Rusty Rocket]

Originally Posted by gippyphil

You were spot on Rusty - as soon as I top the top clamp off, it popped right back

That was a problem I had on my KDX's years ago. I used to race enduros on them. They had the rubber cones and every time you fell and hit the bars with any force, they would twist like that. The solution was a metal "bridge" that was the right size to put all 4 handlebar clamp bolts through it and make it a one piece top clamp. (my KTM has it ) Then it couldn't twist like yours did. I wish there was a clamp like that avail for the DR. I ride mostly offroad and have had that twist happen. Fortunately while it's not a race, I can take the time to loosen the clamps and straighten the whole deal. I have marked my bars with a scratch mark where they line up with the clamp so I can get them back into the correct position without any trial and error.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by Feelers

Not to be the redneck around here, but I have done excellent painting work with just spray paint.
I used to HATE HATE HATE painting because I am a perfectionist so I went to all the trouble for a great prepping job and stuff, but then the paint would get scratched or marred or stained with gas pretty quickly. So much for all my hard work. However, I found some aerosol 2-part "2k" clear coat that is awesome! Tough, gas resistant, etc! It's a bit pricey, but I will use it for every bike related paint job I ever do in the future! Oh, it's made by Spraymax!

Very interesting, thanks Feelers.
I have checked with the auto paint shop where I have been getting supplies and they do recommend it too.
The price here is $25 a can...

I do like the simplicity of spray cans and I have lots of experience with them.

I just don't like the short life.
But with a good hard clear coat over it, that sounds good to me.
As you say, it will get scratched up the first time I ride it no doubt.
But this is my sumo street bike and will be ridden so I don't want to put a lot of money in the paint.

I think I will give it a try!

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by chethro

So, did you use the 35 watt or 55 watt and 5000k for bulb color?

Yes, 35 watt bulb, 4500K color temp. Higher than that gets TOO BLUE!

I have a complete install thread posted on Thumper Talk:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/817...p#entry9831942

Starts at post 29, page 2. Very simple.

[Motodeficient]

Agreed. I have the 35w 5k DDM hi-low kit, and while the color is ok to me, I would rather have gotten the 4500k.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket

That was a problem I had on my KDX's years ago. I used to race enduros on them. They had the rubber cones and every time you fell and hit the bars with any force, they would twist like that. The solution was a metal "bridge" that was the right size to put all 4 handlebar clamp bolts through it and make it a one piece top clamp. (my KTM has it ) Then it couldn't twist like yours did. I wish there was a clamp like that avail for the DR. I ride mostly offroad and have had that twist happen. Fortunately while it's not a race, I can take the time to loosen the clamps and straighten the whole deal. I have marked my bars with a scratch mark where they line up with the clamp so I can get them back into the correct position without any trial and error.

I've twisted my rubber cone dampers several times from falls. I've never bothered to take anything apart. I simply put the handle bar against the opposite stop and push. Now go back to center and see how you did. Need more? Go too far? It's all easy to adjust. But riding is the key. Get on the bike ... make sure everything is straight while riding. If either the forks or rubber cones are tweaked ... the bike will track off center, and the bars may appear not centered. They BOTH need to be centered up.

[neo1piv014]

So after a good test ride with the heated grips this morning in <10 degree weather, I've decided that heated grips are going to be mandatory on any bike I own in the future. If you don't have them, they're worth it.

[Mongle]

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

So after a good test ride with the heated grips this morning in <10 degree weather, I've decided that heated grips are going to be mandatory on any bike I own in the future. If you don't have them, they're worth it.

< 10 in NM? The news doesn't have anything about Hell freezing over!

As I get older I have decided I just don't want to ride bad enough to ride in below freezing! They would be nice on those days it gets cool and you forgot to pack the cold weather gloves!

[Feelers]

Originally Posted by JagLite

Very interesting, thanks Feelers.
I have checked with the auto paint shop where I have been getting supplies and they do recommend it too.
The price here is $25 a can...

I do like the simplicity of spray cans and I have lots of experience with them.

I just don't like the short life.
But with a good hard clear coat over it, that sounds good to me.
As you say, it will get scratched up the first time I ride it no doubt.
But this is my sumo street bike and will be ridden so I don't want to put a lot of money in the paint.

I think I will give it a try!

Awesome! It does make for a lot easier and cheaper job with no cleanup. One reason I hated painting with aerosols is because the paint always sucked. I've tried many. Most of the acrylic enamels (most paint available) never really fully cure, which makes them a pain to use, a pain to cover, and takes forrrrrevvverrrr to get a finished product. I sprayed a second coat of the exact same paint 2 weeks after the first coat and there was a major reaction and it all bubbled up. It reacted with itself... They sure advertise the hell out of it though to be tough and chip resistant. Yeah, no crap! It's hard to chip something that isn't fully hardened.

Anyway, most recently I used duplicolor lacquer as the base coat. Supposedly, it's not as durable as acrylic enamel, but it sprayed and went down beautifully, and doesn't take over a week to cure while dust and bugs get in it. And, I was covering it with the spraymax 2k clear anyway. So, instead of a crap job that took over two weeks, I had an excellent job completely dry and finished in under 48 hours.

My point is just that acrylic enamel bites a big one.