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Old 01-02-2013, 12:58 PM   #46
Shuffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootertrash View Post
Thanks straightrod, it's built in Canada, all stainless hardware. Very nautical build quality. Supposed to weight 300lbs empty.
Yep, sharp rig. I'm in a Tundra now, but my '98 Taco needed some help so I bolted on Supersprings along with 1" blocks, and taller/stiffer springs up front ... gave the truck a nice mild lift so I could +1 on my tire size and not be rubbing. I also bolted on some Spidertrax wheel spacers which widened the stance a bit.

A loaded bed and towing my 6x12 trailer was enough to mash the rear end down, so the Supersprings were perfect to keep it level.



Even with the blower and a tall cap, I was still managing about 20mpg on the highway.

I love the Tundra but still miss the Tacoma ... they are great trucks.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:18 PM   #47
High Country Herb
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I agree the 265/75-16 would be the better value when your 70's are worn out. They are a good width for snow use, and one of the cheapest 4X4 tires out there.

I did a 1.5 inch lift on my Chevy, and am happy with it considering it only cost about $50. I added 1.5" blocks to the rear leafs, then tightened the front torsion bars until it was level (about half of the adjustment).
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:44 AM   #48
broncobowsher
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
Answer = none. Therefore, lifting is almost guaranteed to have a negative effect on fuel mileage, a fact that is already very well substantiated in the real world.
Sometimes you are arguing with someone who does not live in the real world.

Lay a sheet of paper on the ground and drive over it dead center. If the paper does not get sucked off the ground you have enough lift that it doesn't matter, you are probably in an airplane. The rest of us will notice that the air displaced by the vehicle actually goes that far and will violently move that paper. Aerodynamic forces extend beyond the depth of the paint job.

I can find forum page after page with all makes and models fo trucks where a 20 MPG truck has dropped to 15 MPG after the owner decided to "improve" the truck with lift, tires, lights and generally destroy the millions of dollars invested into tuning the MPG as much as possible withen the constraints of still having a functional truck.

I have seen the flip side, diesel (old 6.9 idi) F250 lowered, shaved, skinny tires, all the aero tweaks, taped seams, filled grill, etc. they were pulling 30+ MPG, nearly double original.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:18 AM   #49
High Country Herb
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How many miles per gallon will a truck get when it's high centered in packed snow?

Sometimes MPG takes a back seat to functionality. Don't get me wrong, 48" tires are pretty much useless, but there are uses for a truck where 30" tires just won't cut it.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:39 AM   #50
danny4744
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Nice truck

I had one that had a frame issue Toyota bought back. Wish I still had it... Was a very capable truck without a lift. Have fun
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:20 PM   #51
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I would never jack up a truck.



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Old 01-03-2013, 03:28 PM   #52
leakypetcock
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I would never jack up a truck.



That truck is definitely jacked ...
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:36 PM   #53
Sniper X
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Do what YOU want. I personally would not lift it any more than a couple inches. I have had everything from a 1974 Ramcharger with 8in of lift and 40in tyres to a Blazer with a big lift and too much lift does no good off or on road and I have found with everything from mild to somewhat wild off roading a lift does no good either. Unless you want to do it strictly for looks a lift is not needed unless of course you plan to rick crawl a Toyo truck......
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:38 PM   #54
Sniper X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country Herb View Post
How many miles per gallon will a truck get when it's high centered in packed snow?

Sometimes MPG takes a back seat to functionality. Don't get me wrong, 48" tires are pretty much useless, but there are uses for a truck where 30" tires just won't cut it.
I live in the Mountains where we see over 3ft at a time a few times a year and have NEVER been stuck with 30in tyres.....And I agree, huge tyres don't do much good, especially if you don't know how to drive in the slicky stuff.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:25 PM   #55
liquidsmile
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Yes, level it. It will look great.
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:47 PM   #56
Bueller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country Herb View Post
How many miles per gallon will a truck get when it's high centered in packed snow?

Sometimes MPG takes a back seat to functionality. Don't get me wrong, 48" tires are pretty much useless, but there are uses for a truck where 30" tires just won't cut it.
Since the original topic of this thread was a Toyota truck that the OP was thinking about lifting 2.5" mainly for looks, it's a bit of a stretch to assume there's now a traction issue in snow or a clearance issue for the OP. But since it seems people want to discuss this, consider that what most people seem to miss about lifting is in most vehicles the diffs are the lowest point (unless you have front AND rear independent suspension), and suspension or body lifts do nothing to change any of that. The only way to change ground clearance is to put on bigger tires, and that's where lifting comes in so the body can clear the bigger tires as well as gain articulation (if the right kind of lift kit is used).

I'm not against lifting a vehicle for that purpose. I have a new Rubicon that will get a set of 35's and a suspension lift (with upper & lower arms, not a shitty budget boost or body lift), and a bunch of other mods. I intend to go back to Moab in the future and put it to good use, just like I did with my previous '09 Rubicon. Right now what I'm trying to decide is whether to get the Metalcloak 3.5 inch kit (which will require driveshafts), or get the same kit with 2.5 inch springs (which won't require a rear driveshaft, but will likely still require a front driveshaft and flat fenders). In this particular case, I could just cheap out and lift the vehicle 2.5 inches with a budget boost and 1" body lift, and have a "lifted" Rubicon for less than a grand (plus wheels and tires). This is the crap you typically see in many of the mall crawlers. Lifting in this manner reduces wheelbase and moves the front wheels towards the back of the wheel openings, and rear wheels towards the front of the wheel openings, misaligns the axles towards one side, misaligns the pinions causing wear on the driveshaft joints, and reduces caster in the front end causing handling issues. It also performs comparatively like shit off road compared to properly lifting a vehicle. Conversely, doing it right involves a full suspension kit that will run up to $2500.00 with control arms and track bars, flat fenders that will cost a grand, driveshafts that will cost a grand, and the list goes on & on.

Essentially this means you can stuff a set of 35's under a late model Jeep and look cool for a little over 2 grand, or you can do it right for around 7 grand, depending on the components. And to the untrained eye it will look nearly the same from 10 feet away. In fact, in my case it might cost more to lift the Jeep 2.5" than it would to lift it 3.5" due to the lower lift requiring flat fenders to clear the tires. But to serve my original point that less lift is generally better, for handling purposes I may just spend the extra money and lift only 2.5 inches.

As a side note, the effect of lifting the jeep 2.5 inches and going up 1" in tire height (2" in tire diameter) is a 20% - 25% drop in fuel mileage despite the lower engine RPM at cruising speed.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:24 PM   #57
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I got this little truck with mild lift. I got few things to do and it will be a decent driver.
I had it for sale but after people drama decided to keep it.

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Old 01-03-2013, 09:34 PM   #58
_cy_
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Essentially this means you can stuff a set of 35's under a late model Jeep and look cool for a little over 2 grand, or you can do it right for around 7 grand, depending on the components. .
or simply start with a vehicle that needs no lift. a Dodge 2500 4x4 with 12v Cummins, 5sp ... dead stock fits 35in tall tires.

mileage is 20-24mpg ... 16mpg dragging a trailer loaded to 15k+ lbs.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:02 AM   #59
Bueller
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or simply start with a vehicle that needs no lift. a Dodge 2500 4x4 with 12v Cummins, 5sp ... dead stock fits 35in tall tires.

mileage is 20-24mpg ... 16mpg dragging a trailer loaded to 15k+ lbs.
Let me know how well it works rock crawling on a tight trail in the Utah desert and I might have interest.

I didn't see a single full size truck out there on any steep trail. I'm sure some people do it, but I went through places that required 4 point turns in a two door wrangler.

I've owned full size 4wd trucks. I have no use for one currently, and can haul everything I need to haul with a Wrangler and a utility trailer. And I like driving a Wrangler.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:37 AM   #60
Rick West
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I love my latest new toy. The stance is just a little too 2wd ish for me. This pic actually makes it look taller than it is. There is about 3" between the tops of the tires and the fenders. I'm thinking about a 2 1/2 lift.

If you must lift it just for the looks, then what ever you do, don't get a set of black wheels too. The "lifted with black wheels" thing has become so overdone, it's comical.
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