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Old 12-31-2012, 04:21 AM   #196
RexBuck OP
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Dec 23 To Cali

Would like to get away from traffic so try to find some roads away from the highway. Start right off with a great little road south from Armenia – not a lot of traffic. Some places not real scenic but that’s ok – just relaxing not having to wrassle trucks.

Route leads to the little town of Caicedonia and on exiting find a huge banner across the road “Road Closed” (well, it didn’t say that, it was in Spanish). Some people down the road confirm the road is impassable. OK, back we go.

The GPS map was a little sketchy with detail here so, back into town and see a guy washing his little bike on the side of the road and ask him which way to Sevilla, the next town. Try his directions for a bit but they seem to be going the wrong way. Return to the main street (where the guy was washing his little bike) and carry on down it and, lo and behold, it turns into the road to Sevilla. In fact, this is the road I should have been on but the GPS routing decided we should take a shortcut.

Came to one spot where there had been a little slide and there was a little mudhole. Was anxious to see how the new back tire would work in this because I know the old one would have been wiggling all over the place. Went through like it was on rails. I like that.





Still see lots of horse drawn carts in rural areas. Most horses are not fat but usually not quite this skinny





Farmer taking a load of mangos to maket





Eventually back on the highway. Then take a nice roundabout road to Cali. Stopped to buy some water from this guy who was sweeping his dirt with his corn husk broom





Across the street was a tire shop. I thought their dip tank made out of a piece of old tractor tire was quite innovative





Saw this pretty little creek flowing through a new planting of coffee and bananas. It's amazing how they fit coffee plants in every available space.





Starts raining a bit but I’m thinking it won’t last long . . . then all of a sudden the skies open up and I decide I had better shut it off. Pull over to get geared up for rain and, sure enough, within one km dry pavement. Worked like a charm.

Stopped at a little summit restaurant to derainize and have a snack – had some of that sausage. Really tasty.






Was heading for Casa Blanca Hostel in Cali, a well known haunt for travelers in Cali. Owned by Mike and his wife who also own Motolombia a bike rental and tour business. http://www.motolombia.com/ Mike was very helpful when I was planning my Colombia route. If you ever have an urge to take a couple of weeks off of the daily grind of supporting Geezers, hop on a plane and ride Colombia with Mike.





Great bike parking in Mike’s fenced and guarded lot down the street. They have a young fellow who looks after the lot and lives there along with a pit bull who would rather lick you than bite but looks mean.







Fortunately Casa Blanca Hostel was at the closest side of town so didn’t have a lot of city riding to get there. Nice place – my first real hostel.

Two other travelling bikes are there, Mike from Scottland and fellow inmate Kedgi from New Brunswick, Canada. Kedgi recognized my bike as soon as I pulled in as he had dropped his bike off at Girag in Panama after I did and had seen it sitting there. Mike has been on the road for about 6 years, rides a 1200 GS - oh, and is 71. Bit of an inspiration. Here is Mike with a couple of the German kids we got to know.





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Old 12-31-2012, 05:23 AM   #197
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How much?

The place looks beautiful. How much for the night?


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I’m going in the general direction of San Miguel de Allende where I’d like to spend 2 or 3 days. Not a lot of options to get there – the direct route looks boring. Decided to go by way of Real de Catorce which is supposed to be a cool town on a mountain top and a place I've wanted to go to anyhow.

To summarize the riding today . . . flat, straight, cuotas, trucks. Spent about $450p ($35) in tolls . . . The Libres were essentially running parallel to the cuota and I was on them for awhile then got back on the Cuota as I had left Parral late not realizing I would lose an hour moving to the next time zone. I didn’t want to be wandering around Saltillo in the dark.

Came across a Mexican prison – don’t see many around – I guess not as many as I would expect a lower percentage of criminals go to jail . . . Not a great picture as I didn’t want to be overly obvious and end up in there myself.



The gas situation proved to be interesting today also. Riding at 100 -125 kph for most of the day with some decent winds at times and my mileage plummeted. I was expecting to fill up at one station in the middle of nowhere and arrive with about 30km of fuel left to find they are completely out of gas – all the pump jockeys sitting around doing nothing. Next gas is about 110 km. There is a station about 5km in a small town but they were out of gas also. So, in goes my spare gas and off we go.

Coming into Saltillo, I expected a station about 60 km from town but never saw it. Was gunning for the first station in town when I came across one about 10km out. Took 16.1 litres . . . my tank holds 16 litres. I’m thinking I would have had to dip into the spare gas again had I not come across this station at that moment.

Interesting terrain – kind of a high desert. Mostly 4-5,000 feet – varied between sand and cactus and agriculture. Had to get through the large city of Torreon but the ring roads do a pretty good job of getting through with only minimal drama. Still don’t like cities.

Had decided to go to Hotel Rancho el Morilllo in the City of Saltillo based on some recommendations. Supposed to be a nice place located out of the downtown area. However, my GPS and the genius operating it took me off the perfectly good ring road and dragged me through the middle of town anyway because I guess that seemed to be shorter. Oh well.

The lady checking me in showed me my room and then said I could park in front of it. Had to take my bags off to get around the corners but made it through. First had to make a hard right through this gate.



Then down this long sidewalk



Around this corner to the left



Then down these sidewalks to in front of the far window



And, there she is, hiding. My room is right behind the purple flowers.



Had to take my bags off to get around the corners. Going in, the angles worked just right but going out, that last corner with the gate just wouldn’t make it. So, I just dragged the ass end over about 2 inches and I was good to go.

Hotel turns out to be quite nice. Older place with beautiful grounds. Owner Norma is a great lady. She is the third generation operating the hotel and restaurant and the family has done a great job of keeping it well maintained and very comfortable. They have only 14 rooms so the place isn’t a madhouse.






Dinner of tacos



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Old 12-31-2012, 06:15 AM   #198
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The place looks beautiful. How much for the night?
The place in the first picture is free room and board . . .

Hotel Rancho el Morillo was about 750p which is a little under $60
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:08 AM   #199
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Dec 23 – Dec 28 Cali

One of the reasons I wanted to get to Cali is I thought it would be a good place to spend Christmas. They get into Christmas decorations so it does feel a bit like Christmas – except it is comfortably warm.



Had a manger scene in this funky looking building




In addition to Kedgi and Mike, a few more traveling bikes showed up – Frankie from Hong Kong and Tony from San Francisco on their KLRs. Frankie is an expert at the ADV salute.








Adam from Perth Australia showed up without his KLR. Took a bus over from Popoyan as the Cali Hospital has a reputation for first class medical care. Great attitude - just wants to get his bike fixed and continue his trip. Plans to hang out for a couple of months while he gets himself and his bike back in running condition.







Pretty relaxing time. Casa Blanca is well located with numerous bars, restaurants and shops nearby. This little place next to the bar we frequented had a barbeque out front and made all sorts of tasty stuff. There were a number of bars in the neighborhood and they did a pretty good business delivering food to the hungry drunkards





Like this







About three blocks away is the Chipichapi Shopping Center – a very nice, upscale shopping center that would rival any in large North American cities.They even have an artificial skating rink inside







A Colombian Zamboni (Just have to wash the dirt off)








A big hotel is attached - looking up the inside of the tower







A few random pictures around town


Saw this truck built around an old Willys pickup body - Colombians can make these old vehicles last forever.









Folks collecting cardboard and other recyclables frequently used these giant hand-trucks







Some of the Transit Police - usually 2 up on these little bikes. Ideal for the city as they can easily weave through stalled traffic and get through places a full sized vehicle never would





We are all familiar with the Vespa scooter, of which you see thousands around town. How about this rig, a Vespacar









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Old 12-31-2012, 11:46 AM   #200
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Dec 23 – Dec 28 Cali - Fruits and Vegetables

Nah, not what you think.

When I was in Bogotá, my friend Pablo and his wife took me along to a giant Produce Store. Colombia has a gazillion unique fruits and vegetables and I had failed to bring my camera . . . idiot!

So when wandering through a store in Cali, I thought I would share a few of the things they eat here. You may recognize a few things but most are unique to Colombia. I didn't get everything (particularly the tomatoes that grow on trees) but here is a sample.

They like their bananas. Here are two types with a whole stack of extra ripe ones in the back



Plantanos - usually fried up in various forms



Couple of root vegetables behind the guy.



Get a bundle of some different lettuces with some flowers mixed in



Different types of peas



These guys on the right apparently come from a cactus



Random photos










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Old 12-31-2012, 12:27 PM   #201
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Dec 23 – Dec 28 Cali La Feria de Cali

Some pretty big festivals going on in this season. Kedgi and I decided to go downtown to take in an annual event in Cali, La Feria de Cali. Traditionaly, December 26 was the only day of the year people were allowed to ride their horses in the streets of Cali. In the past it got a little out of hand so they now restrict it to one area of downtown. There were thousands of horses from all over parading through the whole time we were there and I’m guessing there were a hundred thousand people having a good time.

It was hard getting close enough to see the horses so, here is one horse pic and some random shots of the people of Cali having a good time.





Spray foam is a very active part of the celebrations












It seems to be popular for individuals with, umm, enhancements to dance around, stop traffic while passing the hat. This Dude was at least 6' 6"





Guy and his dogs








A cool old Triumph





This one's for Albert - I know he likes hats . . .






Some of the vendors - here is some more traditional Colombian hats





You see these vendors everywhere. Sell cell phone calls by the minute. Usually the phones they have are tethered by a 6' chain so they don't disappear.





Mangos






Guy making toffee of some sort. At first I thought he was making hats






These kids had a little game going. Bet on which little hut one of the Guinea Pigs would go into first and win. I'd bet they made pretty good money.







Selling pop and beer. Dozens of people would go down to the store and buy a dozen beer, stick them in a bucket or a little ice chest with some big blocks of ice and wander around selling cold beer.






This guy was a real character.
My camera battery ran out or there would have been more.










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Old 12-31-2012, 01:17 PM   #202
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Wicked

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This one's for Albert - I know he likes hats . . .





Thanks Geezer, I like "Hats" too
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Old 12-31-2012, 07:58 PM   #203
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really enjoying your ride report and get a smile every time I open it. As you can see my trips are by F800GS Geeser.

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Old 12-31-2012, 11:12 PM   #204
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Geez(s)ers of the world, unite!

Thanks lakota - glad you are enjoying it


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really enjoying your ride report and get a smile every time I open it. As you can see my trips are by F800GS Geeser.

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Old 01-01-2013, 05:59 AM   #205
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Dec 28 Pasto

Left through Cali with Kedgi, Tony and Franki






Long day to Pasto. Beautiful country with some massive valleys and rugged mountains. This is the main highway so encountered fairly regular groups of traffic that always took a bit of time to get around.









Don't see many road varmints but still the odd one





Stopped at pretty good sized road-side restaurant for lunch. A guy pulled up on a little moto delivering some big bags of something for the restaurant and had full rain gear on. It was like 29C. Strange. But, we will discover why later.

They had a great view from the restaurant





and even had a zip line to the other side of this little ravine.




Starts getting more arid (Less jungle) as we approach Quito













Start encountering a number of old people begging on the side of the highway. Then lots of groups of kids pulling ropes trying to stop traffic for money. Then the kids started using long bamboo poles, on on each side. Never a problem driving through – as soon as they saw you weren’t slowing down, the rope dropped or poles raised like a gate. Really difficult stopping for any of these as it takes so long to dig some change out and a stopped motorcycle in the road is asking to get run into.

Then was behind a bus and a group of kids absolutely nail it with numerous buckets of water. I’m presuming windows were open as it was pretty warm and those buses have no air conditioning. More and more groups – some dressed in costume, most just having a good time using hoses, buckets and any other container they could find throwing water at anything that moved. I started to encourage them as getting soaked in the heat was very refreshing. One kid had particularly good aim and got me right in the old kisser with a bucketful – felt like I was punched in the kisser. Wasn't so refreshing though as we gained altitude and the temperatures dropped into the high teens (That'd be C - mid 60s in F) .

Went through a few toll booths and when we got to the last one before Pasto, I noticed it had particularly high walls (still fit under my bags) and had a couple of higher concrete walls. I’m riding through this thing trying to figure how to get a picture for all you FFs when BAM! - I’m rolling off the right side of the bike. Bike is propped up on the right side wall. There was a whole flock of little bikes behind me that I had just passed coming up the hill now bunched up waiting to get through. I quickly pick up the bike, hop on and restart and hear this honking behind me. Look back and here is a guy carrying my left side bag up to me. Crap! Hit the wall and popped it right off. Got out of the way and had to bend a couple of flanges back and replace the lock mechanism. I have an extra as it is designed to breakaway like that. At least I figured out how to get a pic – looking back. That grey part sticking out is what I tried to knock off. It won.





Arrive in Pasto and pick a hotel nearby from the GPS list and go check it out. Little room with single beds and they have parking and internet. Sounds good. Have a look at the parking and they want us to drive up a 3” ramp through a door and squeeze all the bikes into a little room. We don’t think the handlebars will fit through the door so move on up the street.

As we are waiting at a stoplight a lady with a couple other people in her car pulls up next to me and asks what we are looking for – tell her hotel and she tells us to pull over. Asks me if I want to talk in Spanish or English and I choose English so, she gets her husband on the phone. Tell him we want a cheap hotel with parking. He says ok, stay right there, he will guide us there. She decides instead to lead us to the hotel.

When we arrive, she is telling us what the deal is but seems a bit anxious and wants to leave – I wanted to thank her and get her picture but she is gone. Dario shows up and we get chatting. Dario is a businessman and rides a GSA.





Turns out his wife was taking an aunt to the hospital with a broken arm, sees a bunch of fellow riders wandering around looking lost and decides that Auntie can wait for a few more minutes while she sorts the gringos out. Hey Auntie, it’s not hurting that much is it? Just chill for awhile, OK? These idiots need to get sorted out – it’ll be just a few more minutes.

This is an example of the people here. They are so incredibly friendly, want to help so much and make sure your stay here is pleasant that they leave a busted up relative in the car while they help complete strangers find a place to stay. I am just blown away.

As we were coming into town, this whole water thing was taken to a whole new level and hoards of people were dowsing anything that moves from the tops of buildings, standing in the road and out of vehicles. Ergo all moto riders are in full rain gear.

Apparently an annual tradition in Pasto – Diá de Agua (water day) is the start of their week long Carnival. Of course there was no lack of booze involved in the celebrations and eventually the city shuts down the city water supply to encourage the revelers to go home. Once the system is drained, no water. Good thing most of the buildings are made of concrete.


Met up with the three German kids from the Casa Blanca hostel in Cali. One of them had left his passport and cash at Casa Blanca so we brought it over for him. Nice kids touring around South America.




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Old 01-04-2013, 05:47 AM   #206
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Dec 29 Into Ecuador

Four of us left Pasto for the boarder today - the hotel we had the previous night





Pasto was a pretty good sized town but you still see these carts wending their way down the streets





Saw this thing parked next to a gas station. Looks like a giant tanker with a nozzle on the back. Don't know if it was just on standby for crowd control or they got involved in the Water Day festivities the day before . . . wouldn't that be a hoot to watch, bunch of guys heaving water balloons off a building and this monster comes lumbering around the corner blasting away?






Stopped at the famous Santuario de las Lajas, a Cathedral built over a gorge in a spectacular setting.












The story goes that in the 18th Century somebody saw the image of the Virgin Mary in the rock and the spot became a pilgrimage for many. Between 1916 and 1944 the Church was built.

We can certainly attest to the place being a popular Pilgrimage – we were there on a Saturday and there were tons of people making their way to the church.





The church was packed with quite a procession going in and out





The long pathway down (which of course was the pathway back up . . . "It's Wheezin Geezer Time" sung to the tune of the Howdy Doody theme song) was packed with vendors selling just about anything you could think of





This guy was selling Llama rides





The river gorge which the Cathedral spans





They have even built a nice park and picnic area at the bottom






The building is quite the structure with a massive foundation to the bottom of the gorge








This guy was carrying a large bag of something to one of the vendors on the other side of the river






This Priest/Friar/Monk with a funky haircut - looks like a crown






See a lot of groups like these guys. Usually have a dummy (more on that tradition later) with one dressed up as a "lady" collecting donations. I think these were a bunch of local cops





This little guy was quite enthralled with the bikes - so he gets a test ride





Got to the boarder at about noon. Check out of Colombia was straight forward – 15 minute wait in line for passport stamp then over to Aduana and that guy takes the papers for the bike and says “Thanks”. Done. In front of the Colombia Migración





Meet a couple of Colombians starting a South America trip and a couple of guys from the US doing the whole Americas trip. Ken and Ben – father and son riding GSAs. Ben has a motorcycle rental business in Colorado.

Cross the bridge to Ecuador, park and stand in line for over an hour and a half to get the passport stamped. There were busloads of people waiting to get in. Apparently a lot of Colombians travel to Ecuador for New Years celebrations. What a gong show. The line started around the end of the parking lot to the left and they would let you in to the Migración office under the blue and white sign one by one.







Run into our young German friends again - Lawrence is 6' 6" - handy for changing light bulbs





While we are waiting a whole bunch more bikes show up – I think there was 25 or 30 bikes waiting. All the new arrivals were from Colombia – real friendly guys as we try to tell them about our trips in our rotten Spanish.





Aduana was pretty straight forward. Get a photocopy of the entrance stamp, they fill out some paperwork and done. All together it was 3 ½ hours – the longest crossing yet.

Decided to take the first hotel we find so we aren’t riding in the dark. Stop in the nearby town of Tulcan and find an ok place for $12 each. They use the US $ in Ecuador. Easier to understand but I was starting to think in terms of thousands of pesos in Colombia - 12 is not a number you hear in Colombia.


Ken and Ben joined us. A lousy pic of them - Ben on the left






Went to a Chinese Restaurant for dinner – had a kind of Chop Suey except they mixed French fries in it instead of noodles. Weird. Don’t usually put pics up of marginal food but this was so strange, here it is.





Tasted ok but what doesn't after a few beers?

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Old 01-13-2013, 04:34 PM   #207
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Dec 30 To Quito

Uneventful ride to Quito. and quite cool in the morning. Beautiful country and then became fairly arid – terrain much less lush but still spectacular until closer to Quito. Sorry, not a lot of pictures as there weren’t many places for a group to pull off.






Lost the other boys around Cayambe as they were going to the Equitorial Monument for New Years while I was heading to Casa Helbling in Quito to wait for Mrs RexBuck to arrive.

Quito a big city – glad I arrived on a Sunday – at one point there were two roads turning left – I chose the wrong one and wound up in a 2 km tunnel . . . not a lot of traffic on the other side of the tunnel so was able to do a 4 lane uey.

Casa Helbling seems to be a great place. Certainly a bit better class than Casa Blanca. Big room, lots of decks and common rooms. Food, booze. Good parking for the bike. They will look after our luggage and the bike while we cavort around Ecuador.

It is interesting to note the immediate differences between Colombia and Ecuador. So far, the people appear much more native – facial features and body type dramatically different than Colombia with what appears to be more Spanish genetic influence. Seeing a return of traditional dress and customs. Noticeable lack of little motorcycles and scooters. Won’t miss those little pests in traffic.

Ate crappy Chinese food from the place next door to the Hostel as it was all I found since I’d apparently gone looking for food in the wrong direction.

Mrs RexBuck arriving Jan 1, then we are heading out to Galapagos and then touring around Ecuador. I almost had this ride report caught up now back to a couple of weeks behind which probably won’t get a lot better while Mrs RB is here. Be patient and we’ll eventually get caught up again.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:50 PM   #208
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Welsome Back

Been waiting for ya..........Hope you had a nice visit with the Mrs.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:51 PM   #209
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What he said. . . . .

Welcome Back!!!!!
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:36 PM   #210
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Thanks guys - it's nice to be missed.

Mrs still here till the end of the month but I'll have some updates on our exploits (well, not all of them) to date and the tour to some other parts of Ecuador that starts tomorrow. Looking forward to getting back on the bike.
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