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Old 01-04-2013, 06:46 AM   #61
pennswoodsed
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not following

Quote:
Originally Posted by rawdog View Post
I have the same truck and I lifted it slightly. Now I think it is perfect. I used Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks in the front (lowest lift setting) and 1" blocks in the rear. That was all it took. With stock BFG A/T's 265/75/R16, I think the truck looks the way it should. Those tires are big for a mid-size truck, now it looks right with the mild lift. I bought the parts from wheelersoffroad.com - they have very good service.

It's dark out, so I can't get a pic.
Did you only lift rear ? or am I just pre coffee ?
Thanks,Ed
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:46 AM   #62
Grreatdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostrider.y2k View Post
I got this little truck with mild lift. I got few things to do and it will be a decent driver.
I had it for sale but after people drama decided to keep it.

It looks better like that than with the stock nose low suspension. Even my wife said my Ranger 4x4 needs a some kind of suspension lift because it looks so ridiculous stock.
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Old 01-04-2013, 06:58 AM   #63
madeouttaglass OP
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
Since the original topic of this thread was a Toyota truck that the OP was thinking about lifting 2.5" mainly for looks, it's a bit of a stretch to assume there's now a traction issue in snow or a clearance issue for the OP. But since it seems people want to discuss this, consider that what most people seem to miss about lifting is in most vehicles the diffs are the lowest point (unless you have front AND rear independent suspension), and suspension or body lifts do nothing to change any of that. The only way to change ground clearance is to put on bigger tires, and that's where lifting comes in so the body can clear the bigger tires as well as gain articulation (if the right kind of lift kit is used).
Being in snowy NY for 50 winters, I'd like to point out that any lifting of the undercarriage is a help. Packed snow under your skidplates sucks. Many years ago I frequently got stuck in the snow with my old Subaru Brat while playing off road. A 8" lift still had parts dragging through but the body was no longer hanging up on packed snow. Modern snowmobiles got rid of the huge belly pan for the same kind of reasons. Did I say digging out packed snow sucks?
Anyway, I have the 2.5" lift and will put it in this spring. No new tires or rims.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:43 AM   #64
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Post the before/after photos when you do it!
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:21 AM   #65
Hardware02
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Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
or simply start with a vehicle that needs no lift. a Dodge 2500 4x4 with 12v Cummins, 5sp ... dead stock fits 35in tall tires.

mileage is 20-24mpg ... 16mpg dragging a trailer loaded to 15k+ lbs.

Bingo.

When it's time to replace the stock 265/70SR17E tires on my 2500 Outdoorsman I'll go with the stock size for the Power Wagon (285/70SR17D) to give a slight increase in ride height & clearance without giving up much in terms of mpg.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:41 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madeouttaglass View Post
Being in snowy NY for 50 winters, I'd like to point out that any lifting of the undercarriage is a help. Packed snow under your skidplates sucks. Many years ago I frequently got stuck in the snow with my old Subaru Brat while playing off road. A 8" lift still had parts dragging through but the body was no longer hanging up on packed snow. Modern snowmobiles got rid of the huge belly pan for the same kind of reasons. Did I say digging out packed snow sucks?
Anyway, I have the 2.5" lift and will put it in this spring. No new tires or rims.
Then if that is the case, you should go with bigger tires too.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:40 AM   #67
bobcat
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Can someone explain leveling? I'm not familiar with it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:32 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by bobcat View Post
Can someone explain leveling? I'm not familiar with it.
Lift the front a little (or drop the rear) so the truck sits level without a load in it.
Then you look like a stupid idiot with the back all squated down if you put anything in the bed. You are putting asthetics in front of function.

I understand how you are confused, it doesn't make any sense to buy a tool then destroy the functionality of it to make it look better.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:46 AM   #69
liquidsmile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
Lift the front a little (or drop the rear) so the truck sits level without a load in it.
Then you look like a stupid idiot with the back all squated down if you put anything in the bed. You are putting asthetics in front of function.

I understand how you are confused, it doesn't make any sense to buy a tool then destroy the functionality of it to make it look better.
Most trucks you can add a block that is an inch taller to the rear and it takes care of that.

My 250 before leveling and adding the 350 blocks to the rear



Post

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:58 AM   #70
Grainbelt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
Then you look like a stupid idiot with the back all squated down if you put anything in the bed.
Hey, that's a good look, K-cars and 4runners came that way stock for decades.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:21 PM   #71
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Thankfully most truck owners fall into the:

A: Don't got shit in the bed ever.

or,

B: Always got shit in the bed, cuz I'm too lazy to unload it all the time.

The C: Often vary load by hundred of pounds through the course of the week catagory is rare. Perhaps most common in landscapers who occasionally haul dirt/material that is then unloaded and empty till the next job.

Construction folks are usually in B. Suburbanites and most of the jacked up country trucks are A:.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:16 PM   #72
dwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leakypetcock View Post
It's only been a few days since installing the kit and the only thing I've put in the truck is a bunch of cardboard to take to recycling. I lifted the front only with a 2" spacer on top of the strut. Since I did nothing to the rear, I'm guessing (only guessing) that the rear axle is the fulcrum and it actually lowered the tailgate somewhere around 1/4". I haven't really noticed anything different with the truck except for the 2" bigger gap between the top of the tire and the fender opening.

The day I bought it.


How it looks now.
Alright...thanks so much. The primary reason for me considering a leveling kit would be lowering the tail gate, you probably saved me $300 (with the alignment)
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:24 AM   #73
EsconDeasy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
Lift the front a little (or drop the rear) so the truck sits level without a load in it.
Then you look like a stupid idiot with the back all squated down if you put anything in the bed. You are putting asthetics in front of function.

I understand how you are confused, it doesn't make any sense to buy a tool then destroy the functionality of it to make it look better.

OR............some folks think a truck looks right if it squats with a load in it.

Even though all of the OP's questions have been answered (plus lots of questions he didn't ask) the direction this thread is going is so RIGHT!
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:47 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
And what production truck or SUV that generally gets lifted for extra tire clearance has a good aerodynamic profile?

Answer = none. Therefore, lifting is almost guaranteed to have a negative effect on fuel mileage, a fact that is already very well substantiated in the real world.
I will continue to drive my lifted Jeep getting better than stock fuel economy.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:27 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Range Motorsport View Post
I will continue to drive my lifted Jeep getting better than stock fuel economy.
Better than it was rated perhaps, but worse than you would get if you sat it back down
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