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Old 12-26-2012, 09:59 PM   #5026
go::ahead
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All good info, thanks man. My girlfriend works for a photovoltaic systems distributor and they have a solid electrician in house, I'm going to have him over to check the circuit. I hadn't realized that outlet was added as an after thought but now its obvious!

I finished insulating that wall tonight and picked up the sheet rock, I'll get the wiring squared away and start hanging rock tomorrow. I can't believe there were actually smoke stains around your electrical "handi-work", I know this wiring isn't up to today's standards but I haven't found anything as bad as 6 wires taped together
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:54 PM   #5027
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This was the overnight parking I was offered at Backpackers we stayed at on our recent trip down south. (The milling machine is on the opposite wall)
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:20 AM   #5028
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:12 AM   #5029
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I wouldn't redo a rental, either. It might pay to get friendly with your landlord and have them consider hiring an electrician to help you and to protect the property and your life. If your city requires inspections of properties for sale, that property would have to be brought up to code.

Obvious stuff: There are no wire protectors on the wire running through the studs. The wires running to that switchbox(?), in the corner, aren't through the corner studs and unprotected. That particular circuit is clearly added into an existing circuit, by the way the left wall is cut into. If you're sheeting that back wall, the switchbox(?) must face out, as there can't be any type of box concealed by sheating. Also, you need to verify that circuit (how it's mated to the existing circuit, appropriate gauge wire/breaker, protection, etc). None of the wiring is secured to the studs with staples, as required in any code. Some codes have switch/outlet height restrictions.
Ok so I tore into the box last night and discovered this mess



Does that look like burns to you?



Back together



Conduit that feed through the wall doesn't reach all the way to the box, maybe 1.5" shy. I can't figure out what this these wires even run to, they go through the wall and down into the ground outside of the house.



Still no where near perfect but its the best I could do to just tidy up the wiring safely, I'll have my guy check it all this weekend. My real fear is that I'll find more birds nests like that in the house, I'm going to poke around and make sure...



Here is the first wall finished. No tape or mud, it would really throw off the aesthetic of the place
Those gaps aren't crooked cuts either, some sheets are unlevel at joints by a quarter inch depending on where the studs are
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:09 PM   #5030
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Ok so I tore into the box last night and discovered this mess



Does that look like burns to you?

WOW!
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:49 PM   #5031
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Nice score. I've got two rolling red metal work carts that I don't really need, but might want to have back at some distant point in the future. If you want them in the new cave 'till that day - and that day may never come - PM me.

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So here it is!



My girlfriend and I finally found an affordable rental in Santa Fe that has a garage, no small feat! The house is a 50's signature faux adobe, thus no insulation and sketchy wiring. On the plus side the ceiling is so high i couldn't get it into the frame of the crappy cell phone camera. Those shelves you see behind the garage door are hanging down a good 3' and wrap all the way around the space, endless storage!

Since this is a rental I'm keeping costs to a minimum, I'm giving myself a budget of $200 to make it a more enjoyable workspace. I think I have a free roll of fiberglass insulation which should take care of one wall, that just leaves me one other exterior wall to insulate. I'm thinking of hanging thin ply over that.

Last night I started by ripping out that nasty old peg board on the back wall, the 'workbench' is coming out today after I pick up a crowbar on my way home from work. I'll insulate that wall then put in a proper workbench, hopefully I can find a formica counter top to use
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:53 PM   #5032
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Hey go:ahead

I have a copy of the 2009 IRC (the current code that controls in Santa Fe) here at the office that you are welcome to thumb through if you can make heads or tails of it.


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Thanks guys, I was thinking the same things. Just do it right

What looks (noticeably) bad about the wiring on the back wall? I'm pretty sure that's original work, not that that's a good thing... I'm not about to redo all the wiring on a rental!
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:23 PM   #5033
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Back together



Conduit that feed through the wall doesn't reach all the way to the box, maybe 1.5" shy. I can't figure out what this these wires even run to, they go through the wall and down into the ground outside of the house.

I would cap the brownish wire too, just in case it gets hot later.

Looks much better!

Jim
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:27 PM   #5034
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You should buy a 1.5inch octagon box extension ring to allow you to get a locknut on the conduit in the back of the box. It appears to have only one bare ground wire from the romex, If so, tie that grounding wire to the junction box. Also the 2 white wires appear to be showing bare conductors, they need to be trimmed to the correct length, retwisted and wirenut reinstalled. When I am trying to do my best work I will wrap scotch 33 or 88 tape on all the conections over the wire nut and around the wires to help prevent the nuts coming off or the wires from seperating. Tape or wirenut all unused wires.The 1/2 inch knock out hole on the left side needs a pushpenny or plug in it to help contain a fire inside the box. Use diagonal cutter to trim cleanly the outer jacket on the romex. Other than all that, it looks good.

This last comment should be at the top of the page.

Change batteries in smoke detectors when you change your clock for daylight savings.

jeep8 screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 07:35 PM
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:59 AM   #5035
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I would cap the brownish wire too, just in case it gets hot later.

Looks much better!

Jim
What kills me the most is I can't figure out what it goes to or why, the hunt continues!
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:01 AM   #5036
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You should buy a 1.5inch octagon box extension ring to allow you to get a locknut on the conduit in the back of the box. It appears to have only one bare ground wire from the romex, If so, tie that grounding wire to the junction box. Also the 2 white wires appear to be showing bare conductors, they need to be trimmed to the correct length, retwisted and wirenut reinstalled. When I am trying to do my best work I will wrap scotch 33 or 88 tape on all the conections over the wire nut and around the wires to help prevent the nuts coming off or the wires from seperating. Tape or wirenut all unused wires.The 1/2 inch knock out hole on the left side needs a pushpenny or plug in it to help contain a fire inside the box. Use diagonal cutter to trim cleanly the outer jacket on the romex. Other than all that, it looks good.

This last comment should be at the top of the page.

Change batteries in smoke detectors when you change your clock for daylight savings.
Thanks! I'll open the box tonight and touch it up.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:04 AM   #5037
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WOW!
You think that's bad? Wait till I get some pics up of the switch & outlet box I opened last night, pulling all that apart and redoing it correct is going to be its own project
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:24 AM   #5038
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Nice garage. I am not familliar wit US domestic electric schemes, since I am from EU, but to me it looks like an atempt of a 3 phase outlet, so you may want to check it out, I may be wrong but just an idea :-)
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:27 AM   #5039
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I would cap the brownish wire too, just in case it gets hot later.

Looks much better!

Jim


there should be a 1/16 thich sheet metal plate covering the holes where wires pass through studs, and where the studs are notched shown in the pic (post #5040). just my 2 cents. i'm quoting the 2011 NEC from NFPA 70 the sheet metal plate is to prevent screws or nails from puncturing the wire assembly.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:07 PM   #5040
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there should be a 1/16 thich sheet metal plate covering the holes where wires pass through studs, and where the studs are notched shown in the pic (post #5040). just my 2 cents. i'm quoting the 2011 NEC from NFPA 70 the sheet metal plate is to prevent screws or nails from puncturing the wire assembly.
huh, hadn't seen that before
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