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Old 01-04-2013, 12:16 AM   #14071
heirhead
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heated grips

Hello,

Want to put heated grips on 95. Should I be able to put on with out any bad battery problems.
How about gps also. Thinking about Oxford hot grips or Symtex. Any better for this bike?

Thanks,

Heirhead
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:54 AM   #14072
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Want to put heated grips on 95. Should I be able to put on with out any bad battery problems.
How about gps also. Thinking about Oxford hot grips or Symtex. Any better for this bike?

Thanks,

Heirhead
I have used a heated jacket for hours at a time on my 93, and that takes more current than grips. Switch out a few lamp bulbs for LED (tail/brake and instrument lights) and you'll free up almost enough to compensate for a set of grip heaters on low.

I don't know the current Symtex grips but I chose the Oxford Heaterz for my 1100GS a few years ago after considerable research because they had a combination of robust connector wires and a rubber grip feel (rather than slippery hard plastic like some others.) Planning to put heated grips onto my GTS1000 and will go with Oxford again.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:10 AM   #14073
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Want to put heated grips on 95. Should I be able to put on with out any bad battery problems.
How about gps also. Thinking about Oxford hot grips or Symtex. Any better for this bike?

Thanks,

Heirhead
As long as you have the street model stator, you should be able to add an item possibly two
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:23 AM   #14074
saddlsor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I'm guessing the longer guard can be very useful in preventing chain lube from flinging on things above it. I don't notice this problem when I ride dirt, but I do notice some chain lube fling when I ride long pavement distances a few times each year (hundreds of miles on a single hot day). Currently I only have the dirt chain guard, which only fits between the tire and the swing arm. I've been thinking about getting the longer version just for the chain lube issue on longer trips.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
I have just the dirt guard on mine also. recently I thought I would try something new in regards to lubing the chain on long trips and installed a loobman oiler.



first thing I found out is you end up pressing the oiler to much because it takes more time than you would expect for the oil to get to the chain. this of course makes a mess. when you get used to it not so much but still more than spray lubes so time to do something about that.



I didn't want to spend the money on a new one so looked around the garage and found some scrap aluminum and a little strap metal and made my own. bolted the front to the existing guard and the back to a bolt on the inside of the swingarm. been on there for several hundred miles and seems to be doing the job.

after using the oiler for a while, I believe it will work out well for the way I ride, time will tell. what I like about it is the ability to oil the chain after coming off gravel or dirt roads without having to break out the can of lube. just reach down and press the button for a couple of seconds and keep going. plus it's one less thing to carry on a long trip as well as keeping the chain lubed a little better over the course of the day when you're alternating between gravel and pavement. just my thoughts.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:05 AM   #14075
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlsor View Post
I have just the dirt guard on mine also. recently I thought I would try something new in regards to lubing the chain on long trips and installed a loobman oiler.




I didn't want to spend the money on a new one so looked around the garage and found some scrap aluminum and a little strap metal and made my own. bolted the front to the existing guard and the back to a bolt on the inside of the swingarm. been on there for several hundred miles and seems to be doing the job.
I like your chain guard better that the original, Im prob gonna do the same.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:16 AM   #14076
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
I like your chain guard better that the original, Im prob gonna do the same.
Yep, neat idea and I need to whittle down the spare metal in my 5 gallon buckets of "metal too good to throw away" :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:31 PM   #14077
DualDog
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Tires

To the poster asking for tire recommendation. I still have 2 or 3 extra rear tires that will fit the DR350 for sale. $75 shipped to your door. Bridgestone TW302 in 4.10-18 size. These are brand new with stickers still on them. I have due to an error (overorder) when I bought these.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:30 PM   #14078
visovm
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Dr350x

I have some carb questions regarding my DR. But before that I will contribute a picture of my DR350 to this thread.



Next post will be pertaining to the carb on this bike. Making sure i am identifying it correctly and a few other questions.
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Old 01-04-2013, 08:50 PM   #14079
visovm
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Question DR350X Carb questions

Now on to my real reason for posting here:

I have been working on the bike for a while now and know it pretty well, but I am still a bit confused as to what type of carb this bike has. 1999 Suzuki DR350X ...that sounds easy, but I think its the E33 model (read California only) after looking through the parts fiche and shop manual.

Here is what the carb looks like:

The number on it "14DB" matched the service manual for the 1998-1999 X model bikes (CA only). So this is the BST33 carb found in the California model X bikes, correct?






Now for the next question: Assuming I am correct (Im about 95% sure), is this a pumper or CV carb? Its close resemblance to the BST40 leads to to believe its a CV carb.

A few related questions to the one above:
Did most of the DR350 dirt model bikes come with pumper carbs? (TM33?)
Is this a CV carb because CA regulations and not the TM33 carb that the service manual shows for the other dirt model bikes for that year?

Now for the last question:
But first a statement, the air box, carb needle and jets, and exhaust are all stock, and I would rather it stay that way.
Would it be worth while to get a TM33 carb from a non-California bike and swap it into mine? Or would it be better to do similar mods at the BST40 (spacer under needle, adjust idle screw, slide drilled) to get better throttle response?

Pictures below show the BST33 as it is: all stock (the slide here has two holes in it already, like the BST40 mod, so maybe all I need is a spacer under the needle and an extended idle screw?)

Any recommendations for the number of turns to start out with on the idle screw? I was thinking two turns out would be a good base point.







I hope this is not too confusing and I am not posting something thats already been discussed. I also hope this is a good place for this post

Thanks inmates!
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:30 PM   #14080
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by visovm View Post
Now on to my real reason for posting here:

I have been working on the bike for a while now and know it pretty well, but I am still a bit confused as to what type of carb this bike has. 1999 Suzuki DR350X ...that sounds easy, but I think its the E33 model (read California only) after looking through the parts fiche and shop manual.

Here is what the carb looks like:
The number on it "14DB" matched the service manual for the 1998-1999 X model bikes (CA only). So this is the BST33 carb found in the California model X bikes, correct?


Now for the next question: Assuming I am correct (Im about 95% sure), is this a pumper or CV carb? Its close resemblance to the BST40 leads to to believe its a CV carb.

A few related questions to the one above:
Did most of the DR350 dirt model bikes come with pumper carbs? (TM33?)
Is this a CV carb because CA regulations and not the TM33 carb that the service manual shows for the other dirt model bikes for that year?

Now for the last question:
But first a statement, the air box, carb needle and jets, and exhaust are all stock, and I would rather it stay that way.
Would it be worth while to get a TM33 carb from a non-California bike and swap it into mine? Or would it be better to do similar mods at the BST40 (spacer under needle, adjust idle screw, slide drilled) to get better throttle response?

Pictures below show the BST33 as it is: all stock (the slide here has two holes in it already, like the BST40 mod, so maybe all I need is a spacer under the needle and an extended idle screw?)

Any recommendations for the number of turns to start out with on the idle screw? I was thinking two turns out would be a good base point.



I hope this is not too confusing and I am not posting something thats already been discussed. I also hope this is a good place for this post

Thanks inmates!
Looks like you're right....Cal CV carb in NY ?

If it runs to suit you, keep it. My "98SE with stock CV carb and exhaust runs great and gets 60+MPG.
Some people have switched to the pumper and said they have good results but most report worse MPGs. In some cases a lot worse. At least one has switched the pumper for a stock CV set up.....Maybe others will reply with their results.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:57 AM   #14081
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Looks like you're right....Cal CV carb in NY ?

If it runs to suit you, keep it. My "98SE with stock CV carb and exhaust runs great and gets 60+MPG.
Some people have switched to the pumper and said they have good results but most report worse MPGs. In some cases a lot worse. At least one has switched the pumper for a stock CV set up.....Maybe others will reply with their results.
Yes, definitely a CV carb. Looks like the CV carb fit to all of the street models (AFAIK). As to any California connection or set up, your guess is as good as mine.

I swapped from a used pumper to a new pumper and was very pleased with the improvement over my worn original pumper.

Then, in an attempt to gain more miles range without carrying extra fuel, I swapped to a used (but in good condition) CV carb. Indeed, my miles range went up - satisfying my goal. I've set my CV carb up as stock for my 1993 model year dirt model (including the "turns out" for the mixture screw). While my diaphragm was not torn, it was extremely difficult to seat properly while getting the black plastic cover back on top. I replaced it and found performance to improve slightly (indicating a tiny leak, perhaps?). At any rate, I remain satisfied enough that I sold both pumper carbs and am living quite happily with my CV carb.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:02 AM   #14082
mustangwagz
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You got yourself a Gas sipping CV right there my friend. If you want 60+ mpg, thats the carb to have. Is for me anyhow! lol i was half tempted to drop 400 bucks and buy the pumper setup a while back...but instead i didnt, just kept cruising my 60+mpg. With my sprocket combo and weight, along with riding rather sensibly i push REALLY close to 80mpg outta mine. its insane. When i first bought and rode thsi bike i though something was wrong. lol but then i started readin on here and suddenly the facts started coming out and i was Tickled pink! lol
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:53 AM   #14083
markk900
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I don't think there are any physical differences between the various IDs of the BST33 - I think they were marked to make it easier to ensure the right carb for a given market was installed at the factory. If my assumption is correct, the only difference is jetting.

I did a little looking myself and from what I can tell the jetting you have is probably the leanest of any of the DRs....stock main jets go as high as 132.5 for other markets, and correspondingly richer pilot/air/etc settings. Which is probably why that model is such a gas sipper.....

I think some experimentation is in order - you can clearly go richer on the jet and the needle even with everything else stock, but as others have said you might not be happy with the results.....personally, on my canadian DR I went with the airbox mod and richened everything up for better response in the woods, but I wasn't worried about outright mileage. I'm happy, other than with a bit of surging on pavement at steady throttle....that I am told requires a pumper to really correct.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:52 AM   #14084
jmderyke
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Hi visovm
Switching carbs might not be worth the money to you or it could be depending how picky you are. The pumper carb will have better throttle response, might flow a little more, but will be less gas efficient cause its made to squirt raw fuel down the carb when the throttle is opened quickly to prevent a lean condtion.
The Constant Velocity carb is controlled by atmospheric conditions and engine vacuum, so when you open the throttle wide open quickly the slide will not open until rpms catch up. The good is that it runs smoother and more efficient cause the slide works with engine and a squirt of raw fuel isnt required.
Im surprised that a cv carb is on a dirt model they are better for the street, but if you are happy with it id leave it. As long as your air/fuel ratio is good.
Two screws out is pretty much standard for a starting point on most carbs. Then when the bike is warm adjust it, so if the engine idle goes up it likes it and then turn the idle knob down, ajust the a/f screw to best running conditions.
Usually CA model carbs have the air/fuel screw blocked off so you cant adjust it, nothing a drill cant fix lol
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:42 AM   #14085
tntmo
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I bought a 1998 DR350 dirt model because I wanted the good suspension and carb for the extra street legal frame I had. When I got it home and started tearing it down I noticed the same thing as you, it had the CV carb. I figured the same thing as you, the CA market (and even some unlucky folks outside of CA) ended up with the CV instead of the pumper. Suzuki does this on a lot of models, the DRZ400E and the DRZ250 both had pumper carbs initially and the CA market got the CV carb.

I swapped out for a pumper carb after a few months.

Quote:
Originally Posted by visovm View Post
Now on to my real reason for posting here:

I have been working on the bike for a while now and know it pretty well, but I am still a bit confused as to what type of carb this bike has. 1999 Suzuki DR350X ...that sounds easy, but I think its the E33 model (read California only) after looking through the parts fiche and shop manual.


The number on it "14DB" matched the service manual for the 1998-1999 X model bikes (CA only). So this is the BST33 carb found in the California model X bikes, correct?

Now for the next question: Assuming I am correct (Im about 95% sure), is this a pumper or CV carb? Its close resemblance to the BST40 leads to to believe its a CV carb.

A few related questions to the one above:
Did most of the DR350 dirt model bikes come with pumper carbs? (TM33?)
Is this a CV carb because CA regulations and not the TM33 carb that the service manual shows for the other dirt model bikes for that year?

I hope this is not too confusing and I am not posting something thats already been discussed. I also hope this is a good place for this post

Thanks inmates!
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