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Old 01-06-2013, 08:56 AM   #72571
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I hope you constantly rib her about that now and then.

D.


Sounds like a Yogi Berra comment.

"Nobody eats at that restaurant, it's too crowded"
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:26 AM   #72572
thumpididump
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I've used the trick described in #6 many times on motorcycles and also on on 1970-80's snowmobiles. Works like a charm in sub-freezing temps. #2 is also a good tip for engines that don't like starting in cold temps....



Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:35 AM   #72573
justcountry04
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Location: Gilchrist County Floriduh (AKA farm country)
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fuel screw

yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:51 AM   #72574
rockydrxrvr
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Oregon Mountains, Great Riding,Not too cold.
Oddometer: 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Behind the head light cowl there should be an unused port you can tap into. If not behind the engine is one, right below the fuel tank. Just be be sure they are good, conenct your volt meter to it with the key on and read 12v, key off should be 0. If you have a vapor dash board, the stock speedo light makes a good keyed 12v point.

I use the speedo light as my 12v plug, and the unused port behind the cowl for my grips. Never had an issue.

Thank you very much for the info, and will rewire accordingly. ---but a bit disappointed the Oxford Controller would not totally shut off the green L.E.D. light.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:54 AM   #72575
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:57 AM   #72576
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
I've used the trick described in #6 many times on motorcycles and also on on 1970-80's snowmobiles. Works like a charm in sub-freezing temps. #2 is also a good tip for engines that don't like starting in cold temps....
When I used to ice-race, the common thing to do was park the bike so that the exhaust from your truck blew on your engine.

I had a '75 Yamaha 400mxb that for some reason couldn't be kicked over if the temp was below freezing. I don't mean it wouldn't start, you couldn't move the kickstarter with your foot. Once you got it started it was good all day. What I used to do, (NOT recommended), was heat the bottom of the gear cases with Sterno.
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:06 AM   #72577
justcountry04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:34 AM   #72578
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Mine, but I don't remember the vendor.



Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Beautiful ride, no traffic. Don't tell anyone.

Heirhead
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 10:44 AM
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:21 PM   #72579
macrae85
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: New Zealand,Scotland,Arizona USA.
Oddometer: 384
Copart USA.

For auction on the 30th January on Copart.com a well loaded DR650......goes to prove 1 thing,that casing protectors dont always save casings!


Lot # 27227712.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:29 PM   #72580
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
I'm pretty darned sure that's the way mine was from ProCycle... just a tad longer. Since I'm guessing it fits up into a hole, 2 or 3mm, with spring tension, shouldn't be the factor to allow it to fall out... I'd think it would have been tensioned even if you had hit something... but you shoudln't be hitting something up in there with the tapered tip of it.

The one ER70 pictured wasn't like mine.. mine was brass, I'd guess, but I can't recall anything other than the tapered cone seeming longer.

I'm at a loss.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:29 PM   #72581
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
Oh, it's definitely the right screw.
The idle mixture screw we put in the jet kit comes with its own longer spring and a new oring and washer. If you try to use the stock spring you probably won't have any tension on the screw.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:56 PM   #72582
dobbo
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Riverina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
Hey Ive been meaning to see if anyone has a problem with the extended fuel screw from pro cycle? I bought a jet kit with the extended screw included. I noticed right away that the shape was a little different. but installed anyway. After test and tune time, my first ride out with a friend of mine, I stopped after a few miles and the bike died. I started it back up and died again. fired it up and it would rev and stuff but would not idle...... my friend noticed that the extended screw had fallen out and luckily was laying perilously between the starter and the head. I rode back home and checked everything out and ended up puttin the oem screw back in as it fit more securely. the depth of the oring seating area was too deep on the aftermarket one and would not hold the screw in with tension because of this. anybody else have this issue???
I also had problems with the 'extended fuel screw'; I found I could not get it to fully seat, without using pliers to screw it fully in; therefore, I could not get the right amount of turns when I backed it out . I thought this a bit risky, as I might strip the thread from the housing, so I switched back to the OEM screw, which appears to wind in without as much resistance as the Ext fuel screw.
Because I could not get the 'Extended Fuel Screw' to seat properly, in meant that I could not be sure on the amount of turns out the screw was.... ie: what I thought was 2 turns out, in reality may have been 3 or 4.

Runs fine with the OEM screw, was always rough with the EFS.

I just put it down to a bad batch of EFS, so have stuck with the OEM screw. (Being in Australia, the cost of postage, negates the return of such a small item)

cheers
Dobbo
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Old 01-06-2013, 02:28 PM   #72583
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dobbo View Post
I also had problems with the 'extended fuel screw'; I found I could not get it to fully seat, without using pliers to screw it fully in; therefore,
You have a different idle mixture screw. The one pictured a few posts back is the "Kouba" screw which was originally a Keintech product. It has about 2 or 3 additional screw threads which sometimes have difficulty screwing into the 'unused' internal threads in the carburetor. The screw included in the jet kit is a genuine Mikuni part which has a longer shaft which eliminates the occasional problem with the 'virgin threads'. But it does require the longer spring that comes with it.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:01 PM   #72584
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 650
petcock

I picked up a 2006 DR650SE bone stock with 4500 miles last week. It rode great and I'm pleased with it. Got it home and topped off tank and inadvertently put petcock selector swith on PRI so most of the gas ran out. I switched it over to RUN position and gas is still dripping. Any suggestions?? Only other position is RES.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:18 PM   #72585
Davis53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I picked up a 2006 DR650SE bone stock with 4500 miles last week. It rode great and I'm pleased with it. Got it home and topped off tank and inadvertently put petcock selector swith on PRI so most of the gas ran out. I switched it over to RUN position and gas is still dripping. Any suggestions?? Only other position is RES.
Get a petcock called a Raptor from Procycle that you can shut the gas off. It is a Yamaha petcock that will fit the DR tank, that has a off position. The stock DR petcock can't be shutdown.
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