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Old 01-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #72541
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #72542
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
I've used the trick described in #6 many times on motorcycles and also on on 1970-80's snowmobiles. Works like a charm in sub-freezing temps. #2 is also a good tip for engines that don't like starting in cold temps....
When I used to ice-race, the common thing to do was park the bike so that the exhaust from your truck blew on your engine.

I had a '75 Yamaha 400mxb that for some reason couldn't be kicked over if the temp was below freezing. I don't mean it wouldn't start, you couldn't move the kickstarter with your foot. Once you got it started it was good all day. What I used to do, (NOT recommended), was heat the bottom of the gear cases with Sterno.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:06 AM   #72543
justcountry04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
IIRC, my new screw from the kit was different at the tapered end (which I believed may have been on purpose to better control the mix), and it may have, indeed, been longer by a bit. Are we talking, like, 2 or 3mm longer here, or is yours 10mm longer or something?
yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:34 AM   #72544
ER70S-2
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Mine, but I don't remember the vendor.



Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Beautiful ride, no traffic. Don't tell anyone.

Heirhead
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 11:44 AM
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:21 PM   #72545
macrae85
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Copart USA.

For auction on the 30th January on Copart.com a well loaded DR650......goes to prove 1 thing,that casing protectors dont always save casings!


Lot # 27227712.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:29 PM   #72546
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea 2 or 3 mm is about right, it was enough that the screw wouldnt tighten down. Im thinking I might need a new spring or something
I'm pretty darned sure that's the way mine was from ProCycle... just a tad longer. Since I'm guessing it fits up into a hole, 2 or 3mm, with spring tension, shouldn't be the factor to allow it to fall out... I'd think it would have been tensioned even if you had hit something... but you shoudln't be hitting something up in there with the tapered tip of it.

The one ER70 pictured wasn't like mine.. mine was brass, I'd guess, but I can't recall anything other than the tapered cone seeming longer.

I'm at a loss.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:29 PM   #72547
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
yea i checked, I have the spring and the oring and the washer in proper order. the problem is the machined area where all the spring washer and oring sit is longer on the extended screw therefor it never has tension on it even with the screw fully seated , which cannot happen of course, I think I may have got the wrong screw, but the taper is proper, its just the stepped down area is longer. you'd think as proud as procycle is of there stuff, they'd put the right screw in.
Oh, it's definitely the right screw.
The idle mixture screw we put in the jet kit comes with its own longer spring and a new oring and washer. If you try to use the stock spring you probably won't have any tension on the screw.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:56 PM   #72548
dobbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justcountry04 View Post
Hey Ive been meaning to see if anyone has a problem with the extended fuel screw from pro cycle? I bought a jet kit with the extended screw included. I noticed right away that the shape was a little different. but installed anyway. After test and tune time, my first ride out with a friend of mine, I stopped after a few miles and the bike died. I started it back up and died again. fired it up and it would rev and stuff but would not idle...... my friend noticed that the extended screw had fallen out and luckily was laying perilously between the starter and the head. I rode back home and checked everything out and ended up puttin the oem screw back in as it fit more securely. the depth of the oring seating area was too deep on the aftermarket one and would not hold the screw in with tension because of this. anybody else have this issue???
I also had problems with the 'extended fuel screw'; I found I could not get it to fully seat, without using pliers to screw it fully in; therefore, I could not get the right amount of turns when I backed it out . I thought this a bit risky, as I might strip the thread from the housing, so I switched back to the OEM screw, which appears to wind in without as much resistance as the Ext fuel screw.
Because I could not get the 'Extended Fuel Screw' to seat properly, in meant that I could not be sure on the amount of turns out the screw was.... ie: what I thought was 2 turns out, in reality may have been 3 or 4.

Runs fine with the OEM screw, was always rough with the EFS.

I just put it down to a bad batch of EFS, so have stuck with the OEM screw. (Being in Australia, the cost of postage, negates the return of such a small item)

cheers
Dobbo
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #72549
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dobbo View Post
I also had problems with the 'extended fuel screw'; I found I could not get it to fully seat, without using pliers to screw it fully in; therefore,
You have a different idle mixture screw. The one pictured a few posts back is the "Kouba" screw which was originally a Keintech product. It has about 2 or 3 additional screw threads which sometimes have difficulty screwing into the 'unused' internal threads in the carburetor. The screw included in the jet kit is a genuine Mikuni part which has a longer shaft which eliminates the occasional problem with the 'virgin threads'. But it does require the longer spring that comes with it.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:01 PM   #72550
gofast1320
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petcock

I picked up a 2006 DR650SE bone stock with 4500 miles last week. It rode great and I'm pleased with it. Got it home and topped off tank and inadvertently put petcock selector swith on PRI so most of the gas ran out. I switched it over to RUN position and gas is still dripping. Any suggestions?? Only other position is RES.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:18 PM   #72551
Davis53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I picked up a 2006 DR650SE bone stock with 4500 miles last week. It rode great and I'm pleased with it. Got it home and topped off tank and inadvertently put petcock selector swith on PRI so most of the gas ran out. I switched it over to RUN position and gas is still dripping. Any suggestions?? Only other position is RES.
Get a petcock called a Raptor from Procycle that you can shut the gas off. It is a Yamaha petcock that will fit the DR tank, that has a off position. The stock DR petcock can't be shutdown.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #72552
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I picked up a 2006 DR650SE bone stock with 4500 miles last week. It rode great and I'm pleased with it. Got it home and topped off tank and inadvertently put petcock selector swith on PRI so most of the gas ran out. I switched it over to RUN position and gas is still dripping. Any suggestions?? Only other position is RES.
The stock petcock can be disassembled, cleaned and lubed which will likely fix the leakage. Many riders prefer to replace the vacuum operated stock petcock with the Raptor style petcock.
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Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:00 PM   #72553
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I picked up a 2006 DR650SE bone stock with 4500 miles last week. It rode great and I'm pleased with it. Got it home and topped off tank and inadvertently put petcock selector swith on PRI so most of the gas ran out. I switched it over to RUN position and gas is still dripping. Any suggestions?? Only other position is RES.
Where did the fuel exit from?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:08 PM   #72554
jessepitt
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An interesting aside on the extended fuel screw in my write up. It is out of a spare TM 33 pumper for my DR350. I looked at it pretty carefully before installing it because I had no idea if it would work or not. It visually matched the stock screws taper and length. Its been in there a couple thousand miles now and I havent had to adjust it after getting it set. I even used my OEM spring and o-ring as they were brand new.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:28 PM   #72555
gofast1320
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Davis53 and Procycle- Thanks, I thought I'd previously seen something about that but did not remember the particulars. I'll check it out. Two more tanks came with the bike- One (the OEM) only had one tank of fuel put through it before PO bought a yellow one and put it on it. I just noticed the OEM does have a petcock on it.

Motolab, Where is gas coming from? Have not had an opportunity to "Really" look at it and figure it out- its been bad cold and I haven't wanted to mess with it outside, which is where the leaking fuel is making the bike sit.

I've had numerous folks tell me that it may be running into the crankcase but according to the sight glass on the side of the crankcase there has been no rise in the level of oil/fluid in the crankcase.
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