Loctite

[DockingPilot]

Thanks Dirty,

*only 3 threads ? not the entire threaded shank or shaft ?

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by DockingPilot

Thanks Dirty,

*only 3 threads ? not the entire threaded shank or shaft ?

If you really want to, but it's an overkill. Apply the threadlocker where the male and female threads actually come in contact with each other once the fastener is tight.

Dirty

[DockingPilot]

Appreciate your help.

[snakeroll]

This was a good thread! I learned things that I didnt even know that I didnt know!

[indr]

Not Loctite specific but thought this would be the place to get an answer.

Re-installing the oil pressure switch on the bike calls for using silicone sealant on the threads.

Would some of this work or do I need expensive automotive silicone sealants?

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by indr

Not Loctite specific but thought this would be the place to get an answer.

Re-installing the oil pressure switch on the bike calls for using silicone sealant on the threads.

Would some of this work or do I need expensive automotive silicone sealants?

Wrong product, flat out. If you don't want to run the risk of leaks get yourself down to the local NAPA/Auto Shack parts place and buy a tube of sensor-safe RTV. You'll know it's the right product because right on the package it'll say "Sensor Safe" OR might say something to the effect of "Safe on O2 Sensors".

Don't get anything labelled Red High Temp RTV. It's crap and your brake fluid will break the stuff down causing a leak in short order.

Make the purchase then remove the cap and take a whiff. If you smell vinegar, it's not sensor safe. Vinegar smell tells you it won't stand up to oils fuels, or any petroleum based fluids. Return it. You should be safe with the purchase of a Black Sensor Safe RTV.

Take a whiff of the product. You're looking for a clean smell. These are in the oxime cure family of RTVs and are safe on electrical components, fuels, oils, greases, and any other fluid found on a bike.

What you have pictured is what is called an acetoxy cure RTV. As this RTV cures one of the by products is a flashing off of acetic acid gas which wreaks havoc on electrical components.

I've covered acetoxy vs. oxime cure RTVs in great detail earlier in this thread, it shouldn't take too long to locate the information if you want to feed your head.

Dirty

[wheels]

Hi Dirty, I'm working on a late model Ducati air box. The cover that get's you access to the air filter has three screws that hold it in place. The allen bolts thread into a metal insert that is embedded in the plastic body. One of the inserts pulled out. I'm not sure what type of plastic the body is, it looks like ABS, but not sure. Question is what's the best adhesive to bond the metal insert to the plastic.

Thanx
Jim

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by wheels

Hi Dirty, I'm working on a late model Ducati air box. The cover that get's you access to the air filter has three screws that hold it in place. The allen bolts thread into a metal insert that is embedded in the plastic body. One of the inserts pulled out. I'm not sure what type of plastic the body is, it looks like ABS, but not sure. Question is what's the best adhesive to bond the metal insert to the plastic.

Thanx
Jim

After looking over Loctite's Metals and Plastics bonding guide I'd go with 401. A 3gm tube is likely all you'd need given the application.

pn. 40104 Locite 401 Instant Adhesive, 3gm tube

The insert is likely knurled and the injection molded plastic will likely be very rough. This is good because because both surfaces have a good mechanical profile which increases the surface area which makes for a strong bond. Clean it out with a liberal shot of Electrical Contact Cleaner and blow out the hole. Let it dry completely.

You'll have about 15 seconds to press the insert into the airbox body. I'd grip the bolt head with a pair of vice grips, screw the insert onto the bolt 3 or 4 threads worth, apply the adhesive inside of the stripped out airbox hole, then firmly press the insert back into the airbox and maintain pressure for 2 minutes.

Let everything sit for a few hours or overnight if possible before you button her back up.

Dirty

[ttpete]

Originally Posted by wheels

Hi Dirty, I'm working on a late model Ducati air box. The cover that get's you access to the air filter has three screws that hold it in place. The allen bolts thread into a metal insert that is embedded in the plastic body. One of the inserts pulled out. I'm not sure what type of plastic the body is, it looks like ABS, but not sure. Question is what's the best adhesive to bond the metal insert to the plastic.

Thanx
Jim

I'd probably just stick a wellnut into the hole and screw the cover back on.

[wheels]

Originally Posted by ttpete

I'd probably just stick a wellnut into the hole and screw the cover back on.

That's a good idea Pete, and it's plan B, but I'd have to secure it anyway. If a wellnut got loose in the airbox and got in the intake that wouldn't be good.

[wheels]

Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez

After looking over Loctite's Metals and Plastics bonding guide I'd go with 401. A 3gm tube is likely all you'd need given the application.

pn. 40104 Locite 401 Instant Adhesive, 3gm tube

The insert is likely knurled and the injection molded plastic will likely be very rough. This is good because because both surfaces have a good mechanical profile which increases the surface area which makes for a strong bond. Clean it out with a liberal shot of Electrical Contact Cleaner and blow out the hole. Let it dry completely.

You'll have about 15 seconds to press the insert into the airbox body. I'd grip the bolt head with a pair of vice grips, screw the insert onto the bolt 3 or 4 threads worth, apply the adhesive inside of the stripped out airbox hole, then firmly press the insert back into the airbox and maintain pressure for 2 minutes.

Let everything sit for a few hours or overnight if possible before you button her back up.

Dirty

Thanx Dirty, that's exactly the plan.

[indr]

Another question, similar to the one I asked before.

On the stator engine cover, at the point where the wires run from the inside to the outside, there is a removable rubberized seal used. This itself doesn't properly seal the oil in so, a dark reddish silicone adhesive is also used around the edges to provide a proper seal.

Does Loctite make a similar product? Something that sticks to both metal and rubber...

I was looking for a Loctite product that matches your criteria for sealing crankcases and came upon this: http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...=8797922295809

It's resistant to oils and chemicals. Would this work for both my previous and this current application?

Cheers.

[a109drvr]

Hey Dirty,
Read this whole thread, quite an education - thanks!

I've got a few questions about my dodge truck. For sealing differential covers would you recommend 598 RTV? These covers don't use gaskets. The repair manual calls for red Mopar silcone sealant or equivalent.

Can I use 518 on my transmission pan and get rid of the gasket? It perpetually weeps every time I change it whether I use an oem or aftermarket gasket. Clearance shouldn't be an issue without the gasket.

Lastly, is there anything I can use that will stop the corrosion on brake caliper bleed valves? I don't have a problem with them sealing, but I'm in the rust belt and tired of using cans of kroil and hoping I don't snap them off.

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by indr

Another question, similar to the one I asked before.

On the stator engine cover, at the point where the wires run from the inside to the outside, there is a removable rubberized seal used. This itself doesn't properly seal the oil in so, a dark reddish silicone adhesive is also used around the edges to provide a proper seal.

Does Loctite make a similar product? Something that sticks to both metal and rubber...

I was looking for a Loctite product that matches your criteria for sealing crankcases and came upon this: http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...=8797922295809

It's resistant to oils and chemicals. Would this work for both my previous and this current application?

Cheers.

Indr- I saw this post the other day and forgot to get back to the answer.

Ding Ding Ding!

The link of the product posted is exactly what I'd go with. Good call!

Dirty

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by a109drvr

Hey Dirty,
Read this whole thread, quite an education - thanks!

I've got a few questions about my dodge truck. For sealing differential covers would you recommend 598 RTV? These covers don't use gaskets. The repair manual calls for red Mopar silcone sealant or equivalent.

Can I use 518 on my transmission pan and get rid of the gasket? It perpetually weeps every time I change it whether I use an oem or aftermarket gasket. Clearance shouldn't be an issue without the gasket.

Lastly, is there anything I can use that will stop the corrosion on brake caliper bleed valves? I don't have a problem with them sealing, but I'm in the rust belt and tired of using cans of kroil and hoping I don't snap them off.

For stamped assemblies like a rear diff. cover, the gaps are all over the place. Around the bolt heads you'll have a minimal gap, then when you tighten up the bolts, the cover will bow ever so slightly as you torque the bolts. Don't ever use a red RTV on anything that involves fuel, oils, or ethylene glycol-the RTV will break down and leave a drip/puddle on the carport floor. You want to use an RTV like the aforementioned 598, Instant Gasket, or any other RTV that says somewhere on the tube "Sensor Safe" These types of RTV's fall into the oxime cure family rather than the vinegar smelling rtv's which are acetoxy-cure RTV's.

For what it's worth there are many different colors of RTV's in each of the two main single component RTV retail consumers have acess to.

As far as the Transmission pan, more than likely, it is a stamped part like the differential cover. The same holds true with gaps that are all over the place. For wildly fluxuating mating gaps, this is when we choose a suitable RTV.

Gasket Eliminators like 515, 518, 510, etc are for rigid gasketed assemblies where once two parts are mated and torqued up, the gaps are minimal- normally no larger than 0.005" to 0.010". An example of a rigid assembly on an engine would be where the jug mates to the case, or the jug mates to the head, or where the engine case halfs mate.

Good questions-keep 'em coming.

Here a stump the band question for everyone-
Who knows why its so difficult to bond glass?

Dirty