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Old 01-08-2013, 04:22 AM   #14116
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah M View Post
Im looking for some lowering links if anyone has some for sale!
Just bought another 350 and need it lower for the misses
I don't have any, but there is always the kuobo links:
http://www.koubalink.com/

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:24 AM   #14117
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto View Post
Mine doesn't sump too badly but you must get this motor nice and hot to check the oil level. If you've got 2qt in it you are fine. Take it for reasonable
Ride for 15 minutes then check it and it will read normally if not a bit high.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
The reason I always check my oil after a ride is so I don't have to go through the hassle of warming the engine up and waiting until I can check the oil level. As Brian mentions, you'll be fine with 2 quarts in there.

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Old 01-08-2013, 04:31 AM   #14118
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Don't know why anyone would spend $70+ for one of those jet kits for $20 or $30 worth of jets and a couple of washers.
I agree. I believe what is being sold is a "easy and complete solution". In reality, it is someone else's opinion as to what will make the carburetor perform better. The kit will very likely make the carburetor work differently, but I'm not so sure it is always (or even often), better. Like you, I would rather have my own set of jets and understand what I am doing with each one as I change each variable individually.

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Old 01-08-2013, 05:14 AM   #14119
Stretch67
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Agreed. Whenever the seller brags about having a "jet kit" installed in the bike I'm buying, the first thing I do is buy an assortment of factory jets for it and rejet it myself properly.

In doing so, having threads like this (and other similar resources) can be invaluable for finding the proper starting place based on your specific carb, exhaust and intake, elevation, etc.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:33 AM   #14120
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Just got this in from fleabay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMR-RACING-C...7f6deb&vxp=mtr

Maybe tomorrow I'll have time to swap it out with the stock one to see if that helps with the backfiring.
I got the bike fired up two days ago (it was 19*F) and it seemed to idle alright, but still backfired like a SOB when you gave it throttle. I did determine that the backfiring is coming from the tail pipe, and having the choke on seemed to help.

Who knows if this new coil will help, if it doesn't at least I have a spare coil now.

i think that pablo put one of those coils in. Said it did not make any difference.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:13 PM   #14121
Noah M
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Thanks Greg, but I cant justify spending that much.

Anyone know the measurments? Perhaps we will make our own!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I don't have any, but there is always the kuobo links:
http://www.koubalink.com/

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:20 PM   #14122
MrPulldown
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If you are going to be making your own just play around with the size a little. I am pretty sure they are longer than stock. I know a guy wow might want to sell his K links.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:42 PM   #14123
jplum1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
I am redoing the head on my 91 dr350s and I wanted to know if anyone has redone their head with a wiseco 10.5 to compression piston and a web cam camshaft looking at there 223 grind. Im interested if theres any clearance issues thanks!
I'm running the webcam 223 grind with the 10.5 wiseco and haven't had any issues with clearance.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:29 PM   #14124
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah M View Post
Thanks Greg, but I cant justify spending that much.

Anyone know the measurments? Perhaps we will make our own!
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=13644 ....Haven't done it myself yet, but I'm gonna.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:34 PM   #14125
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I agree. I believe what is being sold is a "easy and complete solution". In reality, it is someone else's opinion as to what will make the carburetor perform better. The kit will very likely make the carburetor work differently, but I'm not so sure it is always (or even often), better. Like you, I would rather have my own set of jets and understand what I am doing with each one as I change each variable individually.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Hi Greg
thanks for all your help, what a guy !!!
have a question,
we are thinking bout a new rack design for the dr350 and have noticed that on some models they have blinker brackets on the grab bar , is that on most bikes or a rare thing, would make a good landing point for a rack, mike
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:53 PM   #14126
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
Hi Greg
thanks for all your help, what a guy !!!
have a question,
we are thinking bout a new rack design for the dr350 and have noticed that on some models they have blinker brackets on the grab bar , is that on most bikes or a rare thing, would make a good landing point for a rack, mike
I'm not mr bender, but i will speak up. Mounting points for signals would be a wise idea. Some dont use the type that mount to bolt holes, but those that do would greatly appreciate it im sure. Ive seen some ppl use the mounting holes for T/S holes, which in my opinion isnt a good idea. most of the time, the T/S mounting tube is Hollow, which is weaker as we all know, than a regular bolt. This leaves room for failure due to either Overweight items, Clipping a tree with the T/S and breaking the tube and then having a loose rack..(no one likes a loose rack...lol...hardy har har) Ive also seen some T/S's come loose, then again..leads to a loose rack. Something that MAY be nice, would be T/S mounting tabs or...possibly, a way to incorporate "guards" for the T/S's..this way when we lay em down, or squeeze em through a tight spot (threading the needle) thats one less thing we need to worry about.

SO in short, will it make a good selling point, To some yes sir it will. To others, maybe not so much. Its all about the Overall strength, and rigidity of the rack. ANd just how much Banging around it'll take! lol Not to mention, the price! in this day and age, price is always a big thing, no matter who ya are!
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:56 PM   #14127
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
Hi Greg
thanks for all your help, what a guy !!!
have a question,
we are thinking bout a new rack design for the dr350 and have noticed that on some models they have blinker brackets on the grab bar , is that on most bikes or a rare thing, would make a good landing point for a rack, mike
Hey! It is good to hear from you :>

The dirt models had one rear bar style (made of aluminum) and the street models had another rear bar style (made of steel with turn signal mounts). You won't be able to count on that mount unless you only sell to street model owners. Sorry.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:58 PM   #14128
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
The Germans don't mess around when it comes to putting stuff together ;> I can't wait to see the pictures!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
You are right sir, they dont mess around! The Cage kit is awesome, i have a pile of parts ive been saving up and buying that i intend to put on the bike all in one weekend. I managed to find the plastic Front Brake/Rotor Guard i wanted, Now the crash cage, and im still searching for the frame guards by the foot pegs, but THATS a tough one.

Gonna meet up with my buddy who fabricates stuff outta pipe and see if he can duplicate the cage. Ive tried finding the company that made the cage, but its tough...i havent found any good leads. They were made by a company in germany called JT motosports, GmBh. There's some numbers N stuff but i cant make much of them. Them guys over seas got it all! lol
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:16 PM   #14129
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
I'm not mr bender, but i will speak up. Mounting points for signals would be a wise idea. Some dont use the type that mount to bolt holes, but those that do would greatly appreciate it im sure. Ive seen some ppl use the mounting holes for T/S holes, which in my opinion isnt a good idea. most of the time, the T/S mounting tube is Hollow, which is weaker as we all know, than a regular bolt. This leaves room for failure due to either Overweight items, Clipping a tree with the T/S and breaking the tube and then having a loose rack..(no one likes a loose rack...lol...hardy har har) Ive also seen some T/S's come loose, then again..leads to a loose rack. Something that MAY be nice, would be T/S mounting tabs or...possibly, a way to incorporate "guards" for the T/S's..this way when we lay em down, or squeeze em through a tight spot (threading the needle) thats one less thing we need to worry about.

SO in short, will it make a good selling point, To some yes sir it will. To others, maybe not so much. Its all about the Overall strength, and rigidity of the rack. ANd just how much Banging around it'll take! lol Not to mention, the price! in this day and age, price is always a big thing, no matter who ya are!
thanks for the sound advice , blinker tabs
on the rack then use real bolts , thanks
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:19 PM   #14130
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hey! It is good to hear from you :>

The dirt models had one rear bar style (made of aluminum) and the street models had another rear bar style (made of steel with turn signal mounts). You won't be able to count on that mount unless you only sell to street model owners. Sorry.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
No worries, glad to see your still kicking greg , getting some good advice here , great group
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