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Old 01-07-2013, 02:50 PM   #16
RottVet
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Being persnickety and fastidious on the all the carb/performance enhancers is key to a smooth running Ural. I think that the Gossie needles were the #1 carburator replacement item for me. Play with different jetting, drill the slide, proper idle screw adjustment, proper valve adjustment, careful balancing of the carbs, and making the cats disapear are a must. These rigs are severely underpowered as it is, don't leave anything on the table. Or, off the rig, as it were! I never use my enrichers above 35 degrees, and when I use them it is only to get her started, they are pushed off within a few seconds. Good luck..
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:55 PM   #17
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I have re-jetted my '07 according to recommendations, and really improved things (except mileage).
But last week my wife and I went for a ride and it was only 7 deg. F! I could not run without popping unless my enricheners were on. When I returned home I pulled my plugs. They were a little dark, but not fouled by any means.
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:46 AM   #18
PetrB
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I think that the problem is not in the carburetors, but in the air coldness. The fact that on the new 750cc Urals, the air filter is made in a separate hull. Therefore, the air it does not heat up before its get into the carburetors diffusers.

And at the old 650cc Urals, the base of the air filter is made integrated with the gearbox housing. When driving, the gearbox are heats from the engine, and the air, before getting into the intake pipes, a little heats from a gearbox warm. For example, I can ride in -4F (-20C) without any issues.

However, I using another carbs, old good K-63
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:50 AM   #19
pjm204
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Mine pops a bit for the first 5 or 10 minutes and then it goes away. I rejetted to 42 or 45 pilots(I forget at the moment) and 130 mains. Compliance fittings are brand new. I'm going to turn out the air/fuel screw and shim the needles next. I may also go back to the 125 main since the 130 seemed to do nothing.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:05 AM   #20
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What these things need is a way to run a 1/2 choke on them on or off just does not get it. Even my /6 needs 1/2 choke for the first 2-3 miles when very cold. If I ever get energentic I would try the Bings or at least a real carb with a normal choke on the Ural. Bet there is a older carb design that would work slick.

Running too rich makes them run nice in the cold. But mine after the first little bit quits popping and has good power.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:46 AM   #21
camaroz1985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montague View Post
Lots of good answers.

I have a 2006 Gear Up and was always frustrated with the long warm up.

Switched both idle and main jets to recommended large sizes after several years of living with the problem and viola, a beautiful running bike.

Little bit of enricher to start, but shut off shortly after, minimal popping and farting at idle, very short warmup time and definitely better top end.

Can't say it is more power (from a Ural, power is not a real word) but so much smoother and pleasant to drive, I kick myself for not doing it sooner.

My understanding is they are set up at the factory very lean for CARB and emission reasons but at the expense of driveability.

Absolute must do for every Ural owner.
Did you notice a drop in MPG?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:52 AM   #22
Montague
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fuel economy

I don't track it that carefully but likely there is a slight decrease as more fuel is being burned.

And of course, on some rides it is just my bulk, sometimes the 100lb dog and sometimes the XXXlb wife, so it would be hard to get a consistent standard to measure.

But to be honest, for the trade off of smoother running, even if I was giving up 10% economy, I would not care.

In the same vein, I use premium fuel despite the extra cost, not for octane but to avoid having the nasty 10% ethanol that the government here mandates for all regular fuel.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #23
tattoogunman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grisezd View Post
I'm surprised the Ural dealer lets it go out the door without rejetting it first. Could be a nice profit center. When we bought an air-cooled Ducati the dealer offered a rejet, sprocket change, and slip-ons, as a package - actually strongly suggested it. When I declined he pushed the rejet and sprocket change, saying I could take it as is but I'd be back in a week. He was right, was the most unhappy running, badly geared (way too tall) motorbike I'd ever ridden. Now that I work in the vehicle testing industry I understand jetting for emissions and gearing for EPA noise requirements!

I've never had a bike where I absolutely *HAD* to do the rejetting. It was always recommended, but not necessarily required. I had a Honda that had similar problems and the idle screws took care of the problem. Not saying that I'm not going ot rejet my Ural, but if I don't *have* to do it, I'm not going to. The other thing that was brought up was the air filter. If it's over oiled (like mine probably is), it bogs down the bike. I was having these problems before I did the air filter though, but I'm sure it's not helping. Kind of ridiculous, but oh well - I knew what I was getting into when I bought one. I'll get it squared away eventually and it will all be good
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:51 AM   #24
Qwik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PetrB View Post
I think that the problem is not in the carburetors, but in the air coldness. The fact that on the new 750cc Urals, the air filter is made in a separate hull. Therefore, the air it does not heat up before its get into the carburetors diffusers.
Thats a good thing. cold air is denser air. Denser air means more power. and Yes I realise its a relative term when you are talking about Ural's.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:30 PM   #25
gspell68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RottVet View Post
Being persnickety and fastidious on the all the carb/performance enhancers is key to a smooth running Ural. I think that the Gossie needles were the #1 carburator replacement item for me. Play with different jetting, drill the slide, proper idle screw adjustment, proper valve adjustment, careful balancing of the carbs, and making the cats disapear are a must. These rigs are severely underpowered as it is, don't leave anything on the table. Or, off the rig, as it were! I never use my enrichers above 35 degrees, and when I use them it is only to get her started, they are pushed off within a few seconds. Good luck..
If you never have to use the enrichners above 35F, then your idle is probably adjusted way too rich (or jetted too rich).
I used to think that having a rig that started on the first kick even with a mound of snow on it was cool, too. But then I went ahead and did the right thing and adjusted them properly. Now, I have to use the ticklers/enricheners even in the summer and give the bike a couple of minutes to warm up.
However, it may depend on your style of driving, too. If you don't run in the idle range a lot, the fuel might not get a chance to pool or "load up" and blacken the plugs. The flip side is after a long hot ride, a rich idling bike may be hard to start (you'll see this problem a lot on the Rooskie bike sites).
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:55 PM   #26
tattoogunman
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I'll post an update to this since I haven't been on here in a while.

Bike was finally sorted out last week by a visiting Ural expert that happened to be in town. All the bike ended up needing was basically a tune up. He helped me with some other issues that developed on mine and we finished up by getting it running right. We (well, he did most of the wrenching while I watched and learned ) adjusted the throttle cables as they were out of whack, adjusted hoses going to/from the carbs since they were not on all the way (causing the popping I was getting), adjusted the idle, and then used his harmonizer to get everything synchronized up. After all of that, not only can I actually kick start the bike now, I don't have to bother with the enrichers at all. Turn the bike on and the bike will usually crank up on the first kick. Give a bit of throttle after it's running to get the idle good and presto, purrs like a kitten. Of course it is close to 100 degrees here again, so I may need to use the enrichers when it cools off in like February
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:26 AM   #27
Norms 427
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Cold engines aren't suppose to start without needing enrichment of some type. If you jet your engine rich enough to need no choke to start it, then you're going to be running pig-rich after it is fully warmed, guaranteed, and suffering from low mpg.

Recently built Urals from the factory need 2 shims under the needles. Do this before u do anything else to the intake or carburetor system.

There is nothing wrong with running with enrichers ON while the motor is warming up. Here is my technique:

1) Regardless of outside temperature, I am ready to ride, sit on it, pull enrichers ON, start motor.

2) Motor runs fine for a few seconds and then usually begins to run a little rough because mixture quickly becomes too rich for idle.

3) After only 15 seconds or so, with enrichers still ON, I engage 1st gear and pull out of my driveway adding some rpms just a little above idle, maybe 2000 rpms, and the motor smoothes out because the higher rpm is able to absorb the extra fuel from the enrichers without the characteristic stumbling of being overly rich.

4) I drive slowly, but shift into 2nd running at about 15 mph, then a bit later 3rd at maybe 20 mph, keeping the rpms above idle speed but not too fast as the engine is still cold. The engine now is smooth and happy ... but still cold.

5) If I come to a STOP sign, I need to keep the engine above idle speed or it will run rough due to being too rich for idle speed.

6) Depending on outside temperature, I drive gently through my neighborhood for 1 mile, more or less, before I reach down and push enrichers OFF ... it all depends on the outside air temps and how much time Olga needs to warm up to be able to shut the enrichers OFF without coughing and bucking. I try to turn enrichers OFF ASAP, but not if she is going to cough, snort and buck like a rodeo bull.

7) When engine is warm enough to push enrichers OFF without coughing, then I'm ready to pull onto the highway and gradually increase speed as she continues to fully warm up.

When I get it right, Olga does not get too much fuel or too little fuel that would make her buck like a bronco.

The problem with the Ural is that the choke / enricher is either fully ON or fully OFF, no in-between. Most carb'd m/cycles have 2 or more steps for the choke or a continuously variable choke so I can adjust them in small increments as the engine warms up, that way there is never any coughing. Ural ... not so.

Norm
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:31 PM   #28
tattoogunman
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I'm at a point where, after having gone through all of this for the last seven or so months, I'm not sure I agree. I'm sure once it gets proper cold again, I'll probably have to use the enrichers a bit on start up and let it idle to warm up. But with it being as hot as it is now, the bike is starting on the first kick and is running fine with maybe one or two mild throttle blips. I've also got two shims on there since I had done all of that prior to the other work my visitor helped on.

I've talked to so many people about this issue on here, Sovietsteeds, and various other boards. Everyone seems to have their own trick they use, their own technique, etc. Cold blooded or not, I do not believe that you should have to operate a vehicle like this for miles and miles with the chokes on before it warms up and seems to want to run right (and that is after letting it idle for anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes, with the enrichers on, before trying to drive it off depending on who you talk to). Hell, my old Honda never needed the choke unless it was really cold and that was in Utah.

I've talked to way too many people who have their bikes set up where they can more or less ride them right out of the garage with minimal warm up. Maybe it will run a bit rich. You know what? Who cares. These things are a tank that don't exactly get outstanding gas mileage anyway. I'd rather have a bike that runs a bit rich and is functional when I want it to be rather than a bike that takes half an hour to warm up to the point where it drives normally. Several other people that I've talked to basically do the same thing and right off the few MPG's they lose.

I've got fresh plugs on it and plan on keeping on eye on them to see how it's running. I do know it was running rich when I got it because the plugs where pitch black and that was without any messing around with it. Even following the procedures that you outlined (which are the same ones that I was given by countless others), my bike did not run right at all (assuming it would even run). It was also several months back when it was down in the 30's - keep that in mind too. 2 shims and a bit of tune up work and the thing is now running like a champ. No rejetting, no cutting holes wider, no air box modifications, etc.

I'll post updates as my brain remembers
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