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01-06-2013, 08:49 PM
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#16 | ||||
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Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Oddometer: 83
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Farkling is a tough thing to give up on ANYTHING I have.. Bike, car, van.... Trailer..?? I am so screwed... lol Quote:
![]() Yea after reading the wiring diagram the lights would not be interdependent from the breaks, but with the 7 pin I would have reverse lights.... For what its worth.. And would control the breaks. Quote:
All in all, I think I am going to do a new axle with e-brakes, because I have no clue what weights I can and can't hold on to with just my van, so a little extra elbow grease, a lot of extra homework, and a case of beer with buddies around. Will make the job that much easier... In no way is replacing my van to keep the trailer, an option for me. And the trailer will take care of me once I have her dialed in and fixed up for my needs. Still, I will take as much input as I can get, but I know what I have to do.. Homework. Thanks again guys, ~Junior
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'02 XR650L: Accerbis tank, motor mods, suspension mods, electronics mods '02 DR650: Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock, everything else stock |
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01-06-2013, 09:40 PM
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#17 |
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Pro-Commuter
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Wayne, NJ
Oddometer: 928
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Upgrading the trailer is going to be way easier no matter how you look at it.
If you go with larger discs or drums on your van then you most likely will need larger wheels to clear the brakes and possibly a larger master cylinder to deal with the larger brake components. Pricey For the trailer if you swap a larger used axle entirely from a used trailer off craigslist or go to your local trailer place and get components or even a new axle. I plan on doing this with mine, I have a 8X12 that I pull with my 3500 silverado. I dont think i could load teh trailer up with enough weight to mess with teh truck without the trailer wheels popping But I would want the ability to put 1 bike on the trailer and tow it with my wifes Equinox in an emergency. So I plan to swap teh axle or get brakes in teh spring.
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"Is it just me or did Erik Buell hire the same fungineers that Walt Disney did" me - just now YES THAT IS EVOLIFE IN MY AVATAR 2006 Buell Uly - barricade orange |
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01-07-2013, 09:56 AM
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#18 |
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Castle Anthrax
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: N.H.
Oddometer: 1,188
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01-08-2013, 04:19 PM
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#19 | ||
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Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Oddometer: 83
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OK, because I am looking for a new axle, the one I found is a 5200#, should I consider a heavier duty axle? My thought is if the spring AND axle are to stiff, the trailer would bounce all over the road while towing whether its empty or lightly loaded with just my buggy alone or 2(3?) bikes. Maybe go all out on an axle, and take it easy on spring rate?? So go for a 6000 or 7000 axle but get a 4500 or 5200 spring? Thoughts, please? Thanks again dudes, still much to learn in life to learn alone, ~Junior
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'02 XR650L: Accerbis tank, motor mods, suspension mods, electronics mods '02 DR650: Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock, everything else stock |
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01-08-2013, 04:41 PM
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#20 | |
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Duel
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Oddometer: 2,187
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Backing a trailer. go slow, crawl if needed. once it jacks, stop and do a small pull up, a few feet not two car lengths to correct the angle. watch the front car fenders that they don't wack something while your busy eyeballing the trailer. Here's the big secret, when backing up a trailer place one hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and keep it there. move hand left trailer tracks to the left. move hand right trailer tracks to the right. use small inputs not big swinging handfuls.
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01-08-2013, 05:12 PM
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#21 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: North Texas
Oddometer: 447
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I would first check your axle and see if you have brake flanges.
I have put on electric brakes and hydraulic surge brakes and for your trailer I would go with the surge disk brakes. Here is a link and the cost. http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brak.../T4843100.html This is a good unit and will cost less and work as well in my opinion.. lol' If you have the flanges, and you probably do, you won't need a new axle. I really like this much better than drum e brakes. The first thing you may want to do, is weigh the trailer and then weigh the hitch. This will tell you exactly what you have. and as you add weight( bikes, gas, ect. you will have a better idea of where to put it and keep the tongue weight at 10% of total trailer and gear weight. When you first weigh the hitch it should be 10% of empty trailer. I don't have E track on mine and use chain links welded to the frame for my tie downs. Then I marked where I wanted the rear tie downs and mounted thru the deck with steel backing plate. Take your bike, and move it to where you want it(center of trailer and forward). Then move it to where you would place the next bike and mark for each tie down. You may want to do this differently. Whatever works for you. Put your lights where they won't get knocked off and use a good bracket. Have fun.. japako screwed with this post 01-08-2013 at 05:18 PM |
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01-09-2013, 01:49 PM
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#22 | ||
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Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Oddometer: 83
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![]() As for the weighing bit.....hhhmmmm might have to get cleaver to figure that on out. The only place I know of that has something like that is the dump, or the border check points.. But it makes sense as to keep the tongue weight right where you want it... As for the e-track, I think I am going to special order some 8' tracks. All I have locally is 5' tracks and those will/are leaving gaps. Not that I mind to much, but for aesthetics I would recommend to someone/anyone start with some 8' tracks. Thanks for the insight guys, ~Junior
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'02 XR650L: Accerbis tank, motor mods, suspension mods, electronics mods '02 DR650: Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock, everything else stock |
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01-09-2013, 02:30 PM
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#23 | |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: North Texas
Oddometer: 447
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Now to weigh the tongue, use a bathroom scale. I use whatever is handy. A 2x4 laid across the scale and one under the ball. Most scales will go to 300#I would still go with the disk brake option, even if you have to buy a new axle.. You were talking about moving the axle. If you do, you will need to make sure you don't mess up the tongue weight. Most will be 60/40. 60% from the front of the bed and 40% from the rear of the bed. This can change for special purpose trailers. Sorry for talking so much..
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01-10-2013, 10:56 AM
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#24 |
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nope.gif
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: I LIVE IN A GIANT BUCKET
Oddometer: 16,034
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If you want brakes on the trailer, get a trailer with brakes. For a two-place open like that, I honestly wouldn't worry about it.
Modify your driving - The "O/D Off" button gets a -lot- of work on my truck when i'm pulling. There's also a "2" and "1" gear besides the usual "D" ... use those when going downhills or you will smoke your tow vehicle's brakes. The 4-pin connector is for lights and lights only. Brake, LT, RT. There's a few varieties of other connectors mostly seen on horse trailers, I'd avoid these and skip right to a 7-pin RV connector. That adds a 12V aux line, ground, reverse, and electric brakes. I replaced the connector on my truck with a dual-connector dealie, has the 7-pin RV and the 4-pin next to it. Between those two, I can hook up just about anything to the truck. And if you do go with brakes on the trailer, spend the money for a decent controller. Tekonsha's the only ones worth getting, I have a Primus in my truck I got on sale and it works well. Other benefit to a better controller is some built-in diagnostics - Mine tells me that the trailer's not only connected, but that the brakes are indeed working and not shorted out. The digital readout's nice so you can go back to a point you liked rather than just guessing. For the trailer you're looking at, you'll be fine. I wouldn't want to put more than my loaded trailer behind my truck, but it gets the job done.
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Spewer of the poignant non sequitur |
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01-10-2013, 10:33 PM
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#25 | ||
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Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Oddometer: 83
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As for disk brakes, I've heard that drum is better for weighted stuff(trailers, trucks, etc..) and disk is more for commuter and small car's... What I heard Never would have thought of stone quarry.... ![]() Quote:
When down a hill in "2" already. Also was told that one, still makes a huge difference. Planning on doing the 7-pin just because of the aux line and the break line built in. Dont care about the signals as much.. Thanks for the heads up on the Tekonsh. Been looking at Napa but they have some other brand that I didn't reconize The thing with me, is that when I load up... I REALLY load up also. I carry about 500#s of wood, 100#'s of food/drink, 400# bike, and gas & gear worth about another 100... ON A VAN! I feel good when I make to where ever im going because of all those numbers, and the swaying with all that weight, makes feel like I got my "Man Pants" on when I am done driving. So adding an extra 1500# trailer is why I am a little sketchy... Mainly cause I dont know how well or how bad it will go, and I dont want to find out the hard way. "Hope for the best, Plan for the worst" kinda motto is where I sit on the subject... Again. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!! Keep it going, take all I can get, ~Junior
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'02 XR650L: Accerbis tank, motor mods, suspension mods, electronics mods '02 DR650: Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock, everything else stock |
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01-11-2013, 08:00 PM
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#26 |
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Duel
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Oddometer: 2,187
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01-11-2013, 09:39 PM
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#27 | |
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Adventurer
Joined: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Oddometer: 83
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HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Skills i sure as hell aint got nor going for... Just a small amount of that would make me happy!!!!! Thanks for that video dude. Think it should be seen by all just to be seen, ~Junior
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'02 XR650L: Accerbis tank, motor mods, suspension mods, electronics mods '02 DR650: Yamaha Raptor 660 petcock, everything else stock |
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