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Old 01-07-2013, 08:43 AM   #241
MotoTex
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Originally Posted by Johnf3 View Post
I don't think so. It still pulls good off idle. Just a tiny bit of a flat spot and only when you try to make it do it. Riding off road under normal throttle openings and operation, it is better than the old air box. Whack the throttle open at 4K in first on the street and you will flip if the tire hooks up.

I don't think the vacuum signal is a factor at all. Maybe an expert like Head2Wind could chime in if this is really an issue or not.

I have found that the low end jetting--air screws and pilots were not really affected too much by this air box. Needle either. These carbs are so forgiving of jetting that it is hard to tell without the right equipment like a wide band and a dyno. The exceptions are the main jets. It needs FAT main jets, no question.
Are you seeing any MPG difference with the new setup?
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:33 AM   #242
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Hi all,

I have now had a bit of time on my 03 Adventure with the air kit I got off Two Moto Kiwis. Its a CPR Rottweiler. It came with needles and jets. 178 & 180 mains, 45 and 55 jets. Needles are on middle clip. They are from Adventure Machines.
It runs real nice everywhere except if the wind is gusty at freeway speeds. Then I am getting the feeling of slight fuel starvation. Its only slight but I can feel it. If there is no wind or a tail wind its fine.

Could this be anything to do with the carb breather hoses? Or possibly float bowl height. This I measured at 3.5mm
Carbs are sync`d and TPS was set right. Breather hoses terminate under carbs in the V of the motor.

It took did nearly 14 kpl doing a quick hills ride.
Anyone like to share their views?

Cheers.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:48 AM   #243
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Originally Posted by MotoTex View Post
Are you seeing any MPG difference with the new setup?
Hi MotoTex,
I would say the fuel mileage is about the same, possibly slightly better with the CPR set up. The best I have done is about 43 mpg coming back from Cloudcroft. Mostly my mileage is mid 30's, but I am a poor example because on our straight flat no- traffic West Texas roads I am normally flogging the poor girl to get to the good dirt quicker.
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:01 AM   #244
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Hi MotoTex,
I would say the fuel mileage is about the same, possibly slightly better with the CPR set up. The best I have done is about 43 mpg coming back from Cloudcroft. Mostly my mileage is mid 30's, but I am a poor example because on our straight flat no- traffic West Texas roads I am normally flogging the poor girl to get to the good dirt quicker.
Man, I have dreams of seeing 43. 33-34 seems to be the norm.

Of course it IS downhill from Cloudcroft to Presidio County, so I guess that accounts for the better smileage.

As long as it didn't lose any mileage per tank the CPR is looking pretty nice.

Thanks!
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:06 PM   #245
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I'm wondering if anyone can compare the Adventure Machines jetting kit, which I believe uses Factory Pro needles, to the 175/180 stock needles setup. Obviously, there is a huge gain with the Rottweiler airbox, but what kind of performance increase is there with Ken's jetting?
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:18 PM   #246
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Man, I have dreams of seeing 43. 33-34 seems to be the norm.

Of course it IS downhill from Cloudcroft to Presidio County, so I guess that accounts for the better smileage.

As long as it didn't lose any mileage per tank the CPR is looking pretty nice.

Thanks!
...and I had a 20 mph dead from the west tail wind. Probably need to throw that result out. Set up right I don't think you will lose any mileage. I have a few K on my set up without any negative results.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:31 AM   #247
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safe to assume

From what I've gathered, my 11' 990R adv w/akra map & exh(with or w/out db killers) is a decent enough baseline to run/flog my bike w/the CPR? Not interested in spending a lot of time & $ in tuning it. Don't want run her too lean either. But shit $300 for 5hp on a bike, sign me up! thanks

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:46 PM   #248
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Just thought I'd kick in some experience on these style filters...

I use the same manufacturer filter on a twin cam Cosworth engine... Just 2 more velocity stacks.. :)

None of the pictures of the filters I've seen on this thread are anywhere near as dirty as we get them on the track.
They are really tolerant of dirt..

Always use grease on the sealing surface, nasty thick grease. I use red-line wheel bearing grease.

We found on the midget would have lean out problems and the fix was to put a aluminum dam around the front of the filter. About 1" away.

If you dyno a engine with velocity stacks you'll see an interesting effect, its called a fuel fog column, it will extend 1 to 2 inches above the velocity stack. (The dyno operator is world class and had lots of experience with formula engines... ) With the engine under power if air blows across the top of the stacks the mixture goes crazy. He demonstrated with the hose from a shop vacume. I suspect if you put a air dam in front of the filter so the air coming through the body work enters the filter form the sides but cant come straight in it will help keep the buffeting down..

Short stacks for RPM & HP long stacks for low end grunt and torque.

Cheers
Dave
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:51 PM   #249
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Thanks Dave for that info. It could be what is going on with my bike. When I get gusts of wind, side or head on, it feels like the mixture goes haywire.
I remember many years ago on my Moto Morini 3 1/2 sport with k&n filter pods, it had the same symptoms. Good in clean air, bad in side/front on buffeting winds.
I have been thinking it may be the carb breather tubes doing something strange to float level. The reason is that it was doing this when I had the airbox and prefilter on it too.
I may try to knock up some sort of dam or buffer out of cardboard first to see.
Cheers.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:17 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead View Post
Just thought I'd kick in some experience on these style filters...

I use the same manufacturer filter on a twin cam Cosworth engine... Just 2 more velocity stacks.. :)

None of the pictures of the filters I've seen on this thread are anywhere near as dirty as we get them on the track.
They are really tolerant of dirt..

Always use grease on the sealing surface, nasty thick grease. I use red-line wheel bearing grease.

We found on the midget would have lean out problems and the fix was to put a aluminum dam around the front of the filter. About 1" away.

If you dyno a engine with velocity stacks you'll see an interesting effect, its called a fuel fog column, it will extend 1 to 2 inches above the velocity stack. (The dyno operator is world class and had lots of experience with formula engines... ) With the engine under power if air blows across the top of the stacks the mixture goes crazy. He demonstrated with the hose from a shop vacume. I suspect if you put a air dam in front of the filter so the air coming through the body work enters the filter form the sides but cant come straight in it will help keep the buffeting down..

Short stacks for RPM & HP long stacks for low end grunt and torque.

Cheers
Dave
thanks that inside, but i would suspect if we put a "airdam" in front of the filter. then the most air comes from below and then we are sucking hot air due to the heat of the engine. and that doesn't help for power. however if we put a plate beneath the filter so no hot air can come from that way and a airdam in front of the filter then maybe it would work....?. (cold air enters from behind in the airbox)


p.s do you mean such kind of mist above the stacks like in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2iBbwocYZw
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:54 PM   #251
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Well I fitted a cardboard dam in front of the filter and it has fixed the problem I was getting of weird fueling at gusting head/side winds. Now to make a proper plastic one. Thanks Dave.

Very happy !
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:12 PM   #252
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Originally Posted by Spark01 View Post
thanks that inside, but i would suspect if we put a "airdam" in front of the filter. then the most air comes from below and then we are sucking hot air due to the heat of the engine. and that doesn't help for power. however if we put a plate beneath the filter so no hot air can come from that way and a airdam in front of the filter then maybe it would work....?. (cold air enters from behind in the airbox)


p.s do you mean such kind of mist above the stacks like in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2iBbwocYZw

Yep that's it, and you don't need high injectors for it, it even happens with 48IDA webbers.

I would suspect that its just a matter of making the air tumble a bit so you don't have laminar flow slicing across the top of the velocity stacks.. ( Just my gut on this one... :) )

You might even be able to just put a piece of denser foam just on the front of the filter so the air comes more from the sides but is not totally blocked? Aero is always 1/2 science 1/2 voodoo.

Dave
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:54 AM   #253
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I have not had time to make the plastic copy of the cardboard air dam yet. But the bike seems to be running real good. BUT I am also wondering if I can use longer stacks than the cut down jobs I got with the CRP unit. I like mid range over top end grunt. The ones I got with the kit are just over 1 inch or 28mm long versus stock ones, 50mm or 2 inchs long.
I tried to fit the 50mm ones but they foul with the filter. Anyone know the max length you can install?
Cheers
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:42 AM   #254
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ITG says minimum clearance between filter and intake trumpet must be at least 19mm, preferably 30mm. So if it is 65mm filter, max you should use is 46mm.
Source: ITG Air Filters
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:11 PM   #255
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Here is a picture of what we did on the midget, the filter is sitting similar to the way it would be on the engine..
The car does between 80 and 100 on track, and as the filter is on the right side it takes a lot of air blast..



http://www.flickr.com/photos/3362913...in/photostream

First time trying this,, :)

BTW ITG is right, if you get the stacks too close to the filter you'll see wet spots on the media..

Dave
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