Lobsters to Llamas, Maritimes to Argentina

[Hevy Kevy]

Still hangin' with you Dwight. You rock dude

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by roadcapDen

What's w/ the 3 upside down American flags?
Safe travels to Peru and beyond...
Might be riding this weekend, over 12 degrees C and sunny.
Been to St Andrews many moons ago.

RCD, N/W Lake Ontario

Good Eye Den!

I don't know. I wondered that myself.

I like St. Andrews NB. Angele and I rode down there for a day trip this Fall. First chance I had to be there in years since we lived in Vancouver for many years. Nice place for a lunch and a stroll.

12 degrees and Sunny! I just heard NL is forecast to get 80cm this weekend. YIKES!




Kedgi

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by QCRider

Hey Kedgi,

I have been enjoying you RR since the beginning! You're doing a fantastic job - thanks!!

I think you're also following JDown's RR, but just in case, crashmaster mentioned this thread http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854270 by csustewy regarding new fees when entering Argentina by land. This other thread as more specific infos for Canucks like us : http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-borders-67957. In short:

**
For Canadians the $75.00 fee is valid for multiple entries from bordering countries for 3 months.
There is a $150.00 option that is valid for multiple entries for 5 years
**
This need to be confirmed, but thought I would relay the head's up anyway.

I appreciate that. I don't mind paying a legitimate fee, if that's what a country thinks is fair. I hate getting taken like I did in Guatemala by my "helpers"

I crossed into Peru yesterday. I'm not hiding from you guys, There was no internet at my Hostal in Macara, Ecuador. The border crossing was easy and painless. They make you buy insurance. I think that's a good thing. it was $35 and there was a $10 fee for a Migracion stamp. No line ups, hardly anyone there at all. I rode 150 kms into Peru before I started to see any amount of traffic at all I will try and post a complete update this morning.

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by Smithee

Odd, that doesn't look like a Home Depot.

FWIW, Cuenca is being touted as one of the hot spots to retire. Perpetual spring, good healthcare and low cost of living. From your photos, it looks like a pretty attractive city.



We can't apply our North American views to time and distance down there. Few weeks ago, I drove 115 km from Santa Ana to La Fortuna, Costa Rica (not on bike, in a Daihatsu Bego). The drive easily took 3 hours, and the roads were paved all the way.

Take 'er slow and easy. Not like you have to be anywhere at any particular time.

That's right and I try and keep that in mind. I am here to see things, not road race. Roads like the Troncal del la Sierra (the E-35 from Loja to Marcara in Ecuador) are better than any track.

GPS arrival times are highly optimistic here. If your GPS says you will be there in 4 hours...figure on 8

A Diahatsu Bego! I'll bet I've seen a lot of those and never knew it. haha

Kedgi

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by qkraxomtz1

Dwight, I met you in McAllen TX, I'm Victor the managerr from Logans. Just finished catching up, a lot happened since November, all I can say is wow and keep going. Have fun and keep the updates coming.

Hi Victor. I remember you well! I also the remember the great steak I had at your restaurant. I wish I could beam myself there for a few hours on Sunday, have a steak, some cold drafts and watch the Seahawks game!!! I'm thinking it's going to be tough to find a place to see it in Peru unless I make it to Lima by Sunday and that's a long ways away, 900kms

I'm glad you're following along Victor, all the best in the New Year.

You're right a lot has happened since November, and there is a lot of Lobsters to Lllamas left to come.

Kedgi

Dwight

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by Smithee

Odd, that doesn't look like a Home Depot.

FWIW, Cuenca is being touted as one of the hot spots to retire. Perpetual spring, good healthcare and low cost of living. From your photos, it looks like a pretty attractive city.



We can't apply our North American views to time and distance down there. Few weeks ago, I drove 115 km from Santa Ana to La Fortuna, Costa Rica (not on bike, in a Daihatsu Bego). The drive easily took 3 hours, and the roads were paved all the way.

Take 'er slow and easy. Not like you have to be anywhere at any particular time.

About Cuenca

It is a very nice town with a very safe, friendly feel about it. Angele and I happened to see a TV show, the one about buying foreign properties, and they did a feature on Cuenca just before I left home. Then in Port Aransas, TX I met a gentleman who leaves TX in March and spends 6 months in Cuenca to get out of the Texas Summer heat. I can see the attraction to Cuenca. I find it a little cool for my personal taste. I think because I spent so many years in the Maritimes I crave a place where it is warm in the evenings, so you can sit outside and have a beer. We get about a handful of nights like that each Summer. Cities like Cali, Colombia get that night after night after night. If you're retired you can hide from the midday heat but sit outside at night. That would be my personal preference. Cuenca is a beautiful place though and I don't want to take anything away from it. I can see why it is so attractive to North American retirees.

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by AlbertaStrom

I can confirm this as accurate. I just went through the process online and purchased the 5 year option. Kedgi, you're going to need to pay the fee online before you enter Argentina. Note that the options don't show up until you actually go through the process and register. Then when it comes time to pay you have the choice.

https://virtual.provinciapagos.com.a.../Registro.aspx

OK

Thanks very much for the information.

Kedgi

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by Hevy Kevy

Still hangin' with you Dwight. You rock dude

Haha that's what they tell me! That and they mention my modesty too!

Thanks

Kedgi

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by Fourty2ri

Safe travels to Peru !

Peru has been great so far and I've only scratched the surface.

Kedgi

[Kedgi]

I have ridden 800kms in the last couple days. I'm sitting in a nice little beach town on the Peruvian Coast. I have a nice room with a view and I can hear the waves, there is a decent restaurant next door and beer is a buck......I'm thinking I'll take a day to enjoy this spot. Got here last night at 5:30. I'm in no hurry to leave.

I have some pictures to post from the ride from Cuenca to here....stay tuned later this morning

Kedgi

[Kedgi]

When I was in Macara the night before last, getting ready to cross into Peru the next morning i wrote these note to Word about the outstanding ride that day.........

I left Cuenca in the rain this morning knowing I would have to ride high in the mountains to make it to Loja. The rain let up before too long and the road was good. Two lane concrete in very good shape. I have heard the President of Ecuador has made an election promise to have the bst roads in South America within 5 years, He is well on his way to keeping that promise.

I rode up into the clouds and fog. I saw incredible valleys on either side of the road and at times on both sides of the road as I rode across ridge lines linking mountains. At about 11am I wanted my morning Coca-Cola and I stopped at three tiendas before any one came when I pulled up. I was finally served by a wonderful lady in the traditional Andes dress, She was great. She even patiently watched as I did a charade of wanting some Kleenex to clean my glasses, and gave me a few sheets of toilet paper.

After I passed Lojas there is only one word to describe the ride. Outstanding! A brief 10 km interval of gravel for construction led to about 150kms of brand new pavement through switchbacks, climbs, descents, eventually leading to a huge descent into a desert valley that stretches for untold winding miles and leads you to the Peruvian border at Macara, Ecuador. I can see Peru from my balcony. Dream type motorcycling, interspersed with goats, pigs, donkeys, horses, cows but no traffic. None! I counted two big trucks all day!
I am at the Gran Hostal Macara for $10/night. Secure parking, spotlessly clean, TV, cold shower, private bath but no WiFi. I’m posting this to Word to post to ADVrider later.
I’m met an opposite direction inmate today, Paul from Brazil at a military check point. He’s ridden Bolivia and Peru on a GS 800 and is going through Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela, then back to Brazil via the Amazon, passing through Manaus. ADVENTURE! Really nice guy, dripping with the enthusiasm for life Brazilians seem to be famous for . When Paul left I spent 20 minute talking to the military guys about my trip, or at least, trying to. Fun! Not he scary bribe sucking people I was worried about when I left home. For the most part, they are very young men doing a job you couldn’t pay me to do, guarding their countries in very remote locations.

When I got to the Hostal I noticed what looked like a horseshoe nail head in my front tire! Yikes! I had just blasted through 150 K of wild mountain road at speed and then this??? True to form with trusty the KLR there was a tire shop beside the hostal!!! WTF! How can that be. I went over there, showed the guys, got out my jack knife and popped the nail out. As luck would have it, it wasn’t a nail but a piece of safety glass that had penetrated the lug but not the tire. Yay!

I bought three beers at the nearest Tienda and am chilling listening to the night sounds, dogs barking little motos, Spanish TV from other suites, in tropically warn Macara. Glad to be stopped but overwhelmed by my ride on what Ecuador calls the southern section of the E-35 the “Troncal de la Sierra” What a great name for and outstanding piece of road.


A marvelously outstanding day.

Peru tomorrow! I am a block from the International Bridge! I cannot see a single light in Peru.

A thought on essential equipment. You need a good down jacket if you come to SA. You will want to wear it from time to time in the mountains but, and this is important, in the tropical regions they make the best damn coolers money can buy. Get a few cold ones at the Tienda and your down jacket will keep them cold for hours.

Also, many things I see, there is nowhere to stop and take a picture. Bananas growing at the side of the road. People in Native dress, butterflies, hawks, vultures, pigs on the road, Llamas, goats sheep, road hazards like piles of sand left in your lane with no warning. Boulders on the road. I saw some today, without any exaggeration, the size of Volkswagens. Do not ride here at night especially in the mountains. I wish I had some halogen accessories lights on Trusty. They would be a good investment.

Buy good maps. Maps of everything. Spend the bucks for city maps etc. You will love them. Bring a Lonely Planet guide of South America or a Footprint Guide. You will use it. There is a map store on Broadway in Vancouver that has everything you need. I cant remember their name but they have everything and they can be found by googling “maps, Vancouver, Broadway” Spend the money, buy everything you might need, you will use it. Buy lots of sealable baggies to put all that stuff in and a binder, Just some thoughts tonight, while I don’t have internet or English TV. Hope it helps anyone planning a South American Adventure

Kedgi

[Cmnthead]

Still following along from my hammock
Sounds like you had a fantastic day. You can feel the enthusiasm in your last post.
Keep up the good work.

[Kedgi]

Just after Loja


Freezing cold




See the airport? Gives some idea of how high these mountains are!




















Perfect pavement





Curves on the GPS all day





A stop for Coca-Cola in blistering heat after the descent











Three guys at the military checkpoint in southern Ecuador. They loved the bike.




Glass in my tire that I thought was a nail





Paul from Brasil





Hostal in Macara








Looking toward Peru




The view from my room




Nice couple in the next room. Estelle and Maria, They were from Ecaudor. He loved my bike. We tried to communicate. I showed them some pictures ffrom my ride. They loved that!





A better shot of my view. Those are the mountains I had just ridden through





Maraca





I thought these trucks were cool. They are a co-op taxi service. Great idea where a lot of people live on farms and need to haul feed, etc and don't have vehicles





At the border




This river separates Ecuador and Peru








This is the insurance office




I met these three guys at a bank in Piura, Peru. They loved the bike. I had to ride 180kms into Peru with no Peruvian money. There was no one changing money at the border. that was a first since the USA/Mexican border. I'm glad I had lots of water and gas.



Peru


Dry


































There is a 200 kms stretch of desert between Piura nd Pimental where there is nothing at at least not much. I looked in my mirrors and saw another adv bike at about the halfway point. It was a rider named Ceasar from Medellin. He was nearly out of gas. He had seen be go by a little restaurant he stopped at and chased me down. he figured if he caught me I could likely help.








We rode together for miles. Nothing! No buildings nothing, just desert.

Then I saw this little place a restaurant and a tire change place. The guy had a can of gas and sold Cesar a gallon




We rode together the rest of the evening, found this nice hotel at the beach, had supper together and rode in a TUK TUK to a bank machine. Had a great chat in spite of the language problem. He speaks about as much English as I speak Spanish. We had a great night. He left early this morning for home. This was the southern most point for him in a 10 day ride.

[Kedgi]

Originally Posted by Cmnthead

Still following along from my hammock


Sounds like you had a fantastic day. You can feel the enthusiasm in your last post.
Keep up the good work.

One of my favorite rides ever. The road from Loja down to Macara "Troncal de la Sierra"

Absolutely outstanding!

Kedgi

[Digasi]

Congratz on getting to Peru. I have really been enjoying the report. Thinking maybe one day I will make the trip my self.