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Old 01-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #16
JustRon OP
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For those who say to put the axle in brake-side first... I've always put it in the way it came out. In the case of my 'berg (which I was working on last night), I happened to be doing the brake side first.

Can the axle be entered either way? I never even thought about that. (In this case it would not have mattered, but now I'm curious.)
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:02 PM   #17
Damifino
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I put my KTM axle in either way, it didn't matter which way it was in
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:17 PM   #18
Dave in Wi
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Now that you have the useful advice, I'll tell you what my dad used to tell me. "Put some hair on it". :-)
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:30 PM   #19
trailrider383
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How tough can it be? A round axle through a round hole.

You must have had a tough time with this game when you were younger.

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Old 01-11-2013, 05:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
How tough can it be? A round axle through a round hole.
[/IMG]
Agreed. That's why it's so frustrating.

Thanks for the replies.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:55 AM   #21
trailrider383
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But seriously it is a pain sometimes. The only tips I have is to get the bike at the correct level so when the tire is sitting on the ground the axle will line up without having to lift the wheel. And removing the brake caliper gives you one less thing to have to line up so that makes it easier.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:34 AM   #22
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I made a long wedge by cutting a piece of a 4 x 6 at a shallow angle, and place this under the rear wheel while fumbling around with the axle, adjusters, etc. Once the first side is started, just bump the wedge forward until everything else lines up. One more mighty shove on the axle and you're done.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:26 PM   #23
bomber60015
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I don't remember ever working on a bike that needed the axle to be installed in one direction or the other . . . . having been to a couple of motorcycle assmbly lines, the direction of installaion seems to be based on ease of installtion on the line (which includes the side the assembler is standing on) . . . .

Put it in either way (I generally try to put the securing nuts on the same side -- makes it easier to check for the presence of the angle clips I tend to use).
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:27 PM   #24
DustyOne
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last year the bikes i had in my garage all were very easy to slide that axle right through.
it did not matter whether i owned them forever, or if it was the first time i worked on the rear end.

well, damn......it all finally caught up with me. now it seems that even my long time bikes just
DO NOT accept that axle so easily

well, after banging, and after retrying, and then banging my hands, fingers, and yes--even banging
the side of my head, i read a mnx manual.

NOW BELIEVE IT OR NOT........the 1 thing that seems to show up consistently in the books, no matter
the manufacturer.......yep, they all state to "remove the caliper before remounting the rear wheel."

so.....i started to use this NEW TO ME technique. AND BEHOLD, those rear wheels popped right on, the axles
slid right in, and the caliper mounted up.....and in record time no less.

so, even on bikes that i have never had a problem with.....i try once, and if the axle doesnt slide right in.....
it is off goes the caliper. and then there are always the trouble bikes (aka ninja rat for one.....and the dr650 with new cush drive spacers), with those I ALWAYS drop the caliper. Axle up, no issues. Caliper on, no issues. Time to ride--priceless!
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:45 PM   #25
Longboardr
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I spread the pads apart with a screwdriver to make it easier to get the disk between them. If the wheel is heavy/a pain I use a shovel to lift it into position.
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:25 AM   #26
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A length of 2x4 parallel to the rear wheel and 3-4 inches away and a shovel.

Push the blade of the shovel under the rear wheel and use it as a lever to get the wheel at the right height, the axle will just slide in.

If you need two hands, sit and push the shovel handle with one leg, looks awkward, but works :), you have a LOT of leverage.

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Old 01-12-2013, 04:31 AM   #27
griffo1962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeemerWolf View Post
NOW BELIEVE IT OR NOT........the 1 thing that seems to show up consistently in the books, no matter
the manufacturer.......yep, they all state to "remove the caliper before remounting the rear wheel."
huh! been doing it this way for 30+ yrs...... always just made sense to me. Seen guys trying to do it without doing this and it just looks like too much hard work
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:03 AM   #28
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I roll the rear tire under bike, slip caliper onto rotor, slide bolt in partway so it stays in place, standing over bike just above tire, lift rim/tire, push/wiggle axle so it catches, use foot to lift/assist hand to position wheel while pushing axle. Usually works for me. Make sure caliper is slotted in the proper position. Met a guy that rode from Chicago to Nevada and never realized the caliper was not slotted properly on his Vstrom. He realized this the first time he backed his bike down a hill at his campsite and the caliper just about fell off, only the hose was holding it on at this point. I was in the next campsite when I saw him do it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:47 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
But seriously it is a pain sometimes. The only tips I have is to get the bike at the correct level so when the tire is sitting on the ground the axle will line up without having to lift the wheel. And removing the brake caliper gives you one less thing to have to line up so that makes it easier.
Well, I learned something today. Thanks trailrider. I always change my wheels using a ATV type lift that goes under the frame. And I always struggle lifting the wheel into position. I never thought of just lowering the lift to meet the wheel. I've been strugglling with that for 12 years.

BTW: On the Magna the axle only goes in one way and the wheel won't come off with out taking the caliper off.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuciferMutt View Post
I sit semi-cross legged in front or behind (for front or rear tire) the bike and use my two feet to wedge/lift the tire in position leaving both of my hands free to position the axle.
Same way I used to pit big tires on my 4x4... never had an issue with the bike doing it like this.
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