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Old 01-11-2013, 12:48 PM   #14161
Wadester
Rides a dirty bike
 
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: 'Cruces
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
The rubber needle tip seemed a little hard (but then again its less than 30*F here so everything rubber is a little hard).
I cleaned up everything and put it back together.

Bike fired right up, ran great for about 2 minutes, then started sputtering again.
After about 4 minutes it really started to run like shit. To the point that riding it back to the barn was a chore.
Did you check the O-ring that holds the valve seat in? Many folks have had issues with that O-ring getting old/hard and not holding.

12 is the float valve/seat "assembly" - but you can see the O-ring. I was used to automotive types where the seat screws in - in this carb it is held by O-ring pressure/friction. This is the CV, but I recall the pumper is the same.
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:31 PM   #14162
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Did you check the O-ring that holds the valve seat in? Many folks have had issues with that O-ring getting old/hard and not holding.

12 is the float valve/seat "assembly" - but you can see the O-ring. I was used to automotive types where the seat screws in - in this carb it is held by O-ring pressure/friction. This is the CV, but I recall the pumper is the same.
If you want to try replacing that o-ring, let me know. I just purchased a bunch of these for selling as part of my DR350 o-ring kits. Test fitment off the bike looks good, but I've yet to test one in the carb. I'll mail it to you for free if you check it out for me and report back :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:26 PM   #14163
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
OK, pulled the plug today to see whats going on with the bike.
Plug came out oily.

So I started taking off the carb. I noticed that it too was covered in oily/drying gas.
This slimy residue was also in the intake boot.

This tells me the float valve is leaking, causing the bowl to over fill and gas to go everywhere.

So I removed the carb, took off the float bowl and float assembly.
The rubber needle tip seemed a little hard (but then again its less than 30*F here so everything rubber is a little hard).
I cleaned up everything and put it back together.

Bike fired right up, ran great for about 2 minutes, then started sputtering again.
After about 4 minutes it really started to run like shit. To the point that riding it back to the barn was a chore.

Now, I can order a new valve assembly for about $40-45, or this setup http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/th...ton-Tip/Detail for about $25 (buit which needle size do I want?).

Or I can order a brand spanking new TM33 for $219 and be done with it.
Or better yet, save that money and use it towards getting a FI Husqvarna Terra 650...
Check to be sure it didn't fill the crank case with gas and thin out the oil. I've seen em fill all the way to the top. Usually doesn't hurt much if you catch it soon enough. It'll sure pump that mess into the intake if it gets bad enough. Sometimes you can smell it in the oil and the oil will look funny/thin. Also if it popping back through the carb/intake from lean condition or ?, it'll soak the air cleaner with an oily mess.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:24 PM   #14164
RuggedExposure
wandering the desert
 
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Did you check the O-ring that holds the valve seat in? Many folks have had issues with that O-ring getting old/hard and not holding.

12 is the float valve/seat "assembly" - but you can see the O-ring. I was used to automotive types where the seat screws in - in this carb it is held by O-ring pressure/friction. This is the CV, but I recall the pumper is the same.
It looks the same on the pumper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
If you want to try replacing that o-ring, let me know. I just purchased a bunch of these for selling as part of my DR350 o-ring kits. Test fitment off the bike looks good, but I've yet to test one in the carb. I'll mail it to you for free if you check it out for me and report back :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Thanks, I'll PM you my mailing address.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Check to be sure it didn't fill the crank case with gas and thin out the oil. I've seen em fill all the way to the top. Usually doesn't hurt much if you catch it soon enough. It'll sure pump that mess into the intake if it gets bad enough. Sometimes you can smell it in the oil and the oil will look funny/thin. Also if it popping back through the carb/intake from lean condition or ?, it'll soak the air cleaner with an oily mess.
Its definitely popping from the tailpipe. And its started leaving soot marks on the rear fender. I doubt its running lean.
Thanks for the heads up on the oil, I'll check that out too.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:26 PM   #14165
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
just put the new 20 dollar mikuni needle/seat in it and ride easy. People on the phone will know which one. Service manual might spec it out, not sure.

When i take my carbs apart i spray starter fluid in every hole to make sure i get good flow...unscrew the pilot screw , slide, even the float bowl screw to get dirt out. Then i crc it for thread corrosion protection. Make SURE you lube the needle and inside the seat before you put the carb back together.

I figure gas eats the lube away with first use but an oldtimer started me doing that and so i just do it and never had an issue with a carb rebuild. I still hate carbs and love fuel injection :))
Reading further it says :

Quote:
ALL Mikuni TM33 carburetors with accelerator pump, standard size is #1.8
I guess I'll order the #1.8. Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to do that.
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Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:27 PM   #14166
markk900
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Did you check the O-ring that holds the valve seat in? Many folks have had issues with that O-ring getting old/hard and not holding.
+1000 - this is what I was suggesting.....BTW - make sure you get gas resistant O rings - don't ask why I said that....
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:37 PM   #14167
RuggedExposure
wandering the desert
 
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,223
Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
+1000 - this is what I was suggesting.....BTW - make sure you get gas resistant O rings - don't ask why I said that....
Why did you say that?


OK, found this website, they have the new float valve for $25.89 here: http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/007_502_su.html

And they also have this for $28.95: http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/025_661_su.html
...
uh...

Why would anyone not spend the $3.06 and get the full kit?


On a side note, I need a dual sport for my 1hr commute to work. Every carb'd bike I've owned has given me fits. I just get this DR350 setup how I want it and its giving me problems. I am seriously considering selling the wife's bike ('03 TTR 250) since its built like a tank and too heavy for her; giving her the DR350 to ride around the ranch, and flying to Tuscon to get one of these: http://husqvarna-motorcyclesna.com/p...?pid=64&cid=24
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The fear and dread of you will fall on all the beasts of the earth

Border Road 100 Border Road Rally Raid
'13 Husky Terra 650, '08 Kawasaki Meanstreak 1600, '95 DR350S
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:49 PM   #14168
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Why did you say that?


OK, found this website, they have the new float valve for $25.89 here: http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/007_502_su.html

And they also have this for $28.95: http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/025_661_su.html
...
uh...

Why would anyone not spend the $3.06 and get the full kit?


On a side note, I need a dual sport for my 1hr commute to work. Every carb'd bike I've owned has given me fits. I just get this DR350 setup how I want it and its giving me problems. I am seriously considering selling the wife's bike ('03 TTR 250) since its built like a tank and too heavy for her; giving her the DR350 to ride around the ranch, and flying to Tuscon to get one of these: http://husqvarna-motorcyclesna.com/p...?pid=64&cid=24
That Husky looks good, but I think I'd look for a good low miles "08 or "09 TE610 (pretty hard to find). I can't get past those two mufflers. Or Yamaha and Honda both have 250 size FI legal DS bikes now that might work if you don't load em down to much and stay below 6k ft.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:02 PM   #14169
mustangwagz
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sup boys/gals

Ok, puttin out a WANTED note in here, if anyones SELLING a set of WHITE or ALuminum Frame guards, please contact me. Thanks much!
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:02 PM   #14170
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
That Husky looks good, but I think I'd look for a good low miles "08 or "09 TE610 (pretty hard to find). I can't get past those two mufflers. Or Yamaha and Honda both have 250 size FI legal DS bikes now that might work if you don't load em down to much and stay below 6k ft.
You gotta remember, I live in the middle of nowhere. Not only does no one ride motorcycles around here (other than mid life crazies with harleys), but I'm 4 hours away from anything. Its a real geographical oddity. I have a better chance of finding DB Cooper having lunch with Jimmy Hoffa than finding one of those bikes.

I don't wanna buy used, and this thing is getting great reviews.
Don't get me wrong, the DR has been a sweet bike for the few months I've had it, and I've been through hell getting it street legal (http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824069), but I need something more reliable than a carb powered project. I wouldn't dare take the shiny Husky Terra on rough trails, and I'd still use the DR for romping around the ranch. Maybe when I get my tax return I can fly out there with cash and ride it home.
It seems like you have more bargaining power when you go to a stealership with a roll full of 100's.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:25 PM   #14171
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 444
adjusting rear brake

Hello,

Recently got a 95 350 and really like bike. 650 to heavy when I fall.
The rear brake pedal is to far down. Tried to adjust up, loosened lock nut and turned. The rubber turned with the nut,I don't like the sound of that!!.
It was getting squished so I stopped, it moved a little. The part that the brake pedal goes into seems oblong so when you push brake it goes down over 1 and 1/2" before it pulls down on rod for brake. Is that for play or is it worn out. My foot doesn't flex that way enough to put brake on hard. Am I missing something? Of course I am!!

Thanks in advance for any help.

Put a few goodies, luggage, on it. Tank, bars, Ricors were on bike when I bought it. Can now hold kitchen sink.
TCI Sequoia, used off?, cut and welded so sides can be removed, Kouba lowering links, 4.25 Acerbis, big pegs, Ricors front, huge Wolfman Expedition tank panniers, Giant Loop tank bag, Orlieb waterproof rear bags, 40" quad rack mounted on top of TCI rack with Rotopax 2 gal gas (yellow), 1 gal water, tool box with huge North Face waterproof bag on top. Symtec grip heaters, Nuvi 500 ProTaper bars, folding mirrors and my fat ass. Ordering HEAVY rear spring tomorrow.
Hope I get out of town. Would put in pic but am tech stupid.

Heirhead
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:53 AM   #14172
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Recently got a 95 350 and really like bike. 650 to heavy when I fall.
The rear brake pedal is to far down. Tried to adjust up, loosened lock nut and turned. The rubber turned with the nut,I don't like the sound of that!!.
It was getting squished so I stopped, it moved a little. The part that the brake pedal goes into seems oblong so when you push brake it goes down over 1 and 1/2" before it pulls down on rod for brake. Is that for play or is it worn out. My foot doesn't flex that way enough to put brake on hard. Am I missing something? Of course I am!!

Thanks in advance for any help.

Put a few goodies, luggage, on it. Tank, bars, Ricors were on bike when I bought it. Can now hold kitchen sink.
TCI Sequoia, used off?, cut and welded so sides can be removed, Kouba lowering links, 4.25 Acerbis, big pegs, Ricors front, huge Wolfman Expedition tank panniers, Giant Loop tank bag, Orlieb waterproof rear bags, 40" quad rack mounted on top of TCI rack with Rotopax 2 gal gas (yellow), 1 gal water, tool box with huge North Face waterproof bag on top. Symtec grip heaters, Nuvi 500 ProTaper bars, folding mirrors and my fat ass. Ordering HEAVY rear spring tomorrow.
Hope I get out of town. Would put in pic but am tech stupid.

Heirhead
Just checked mine. My brake pedal moves about 1/8" (at the forward end) before it starts to move the adjuster rod. Sounds like yours is worn. I think that rubber on the master cylinder is just a dust seal. Lube it a little and the rod should turn in the seal. Sounds like it's set up quite well for travelin.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:05 AM   #14173
OldUKBikerGuy
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Location: Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
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Another 'mystery noise' solved....!

Just before Xmas, I took my 98DR350SE on a 'Mistletoe Run' charity bike ride, here in the UK.
With my girlfriend on the back, we set off for the rendezvous point, but soon became aware of an ominous noise from the bike. It was harsh and metallic, and I immediately suspected something like the cam-chain or its tensioner. Although the bike still seemed to run and idle OK, we stopped twice to investigate, but found nothing obvious.
Unwilling to abandon the ride, and bolstered by the DR's 'bulletproof' reputation, we carried on regardless, completing the fifty-mile trip noisily, but thankfully without mishap.

Having previously read the entire 900+ pages of this forum, I recalled someone discovering a similar noise was due to the skid plate resonating. This made sense, as before my trip, I had changed the oil which meant removing the plate.

Confident of success, I took the plate off again and went for a test ride. No noise! Woohoo!

A few days later, with my girlfriend back on the pillion, we went into town....and the noise was back.
Bummer.
At least this proved the issue was suspension-related, rather than a problem with the engine.

Checking online, there were similar discussions about the noise, blaming the chain roller, especially on the DR650 forum.
Once I focused on this area, the problem was obvious. The upper chain roller was almost completely destroyed and the chain was now eating its way through the mounting bolt. I had thought the roller was miles away from the chain, but obviously the combination of a passenger's weight and lowering links brought things into conflict, as hopefully you can see here:



As the DR650 boys had urged everyone to simply ditch the roller, rather than replace it, I did likewise, and have just returned from a wonderfully quiet two-up ride with no problems at all!
It prompted me to share my experiences, in case it helps somebody else out in the future.

(Incidentally, I can find no trace of the second lower roller; did my model only ever have the upper one fitted?)
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:43 AM   #14174
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldUKBikerGuy View Post
Just before Xmas, I took my 98DR350SE on a 'Mistletoe Run' charity bike ride, here in the UK.
With my girlfriend on the back, we set off for the rendezvous point, but soon became aware of an ominous noise from the bike. It was harsh and metallic, and I immediately suspected something like the cam-chain or its tensioner. Although the bike still seemed to run and idle OK, we stopped twice to investigate, but found nothing obvious.
Unwilling to abandon the ride, and bolstered by the DR's 'bulletproof' reputation, we carried on regardless, completing the fifty-mile trip noisily, but thankfully without mishap.

Having previously read the entire 900+ pages of this forum, I recalled someone discovering a similar noise was due to the skid plate resonating. This made sense, as before my trip, I had changed the oil which meant removing the plate.

Confident of success, I took the plate off again and went for a test ride. No noise! Woohoo!

A few days later, with my girlfriend back on the pillion, we went into town....and the noise was back.
Bummer.
At least this proved the issue was suspension-related, rather than a problem with the engine.

Checking online, there were similar discussions about the noise, blaming the chain roller, especially on the DR650 forum.
Once I focused on this area, the problem was obvious. The upper chain roller was almost completely destroyed and the chain was now eating its way through the mounting bolt. I had thought the roller was miles away from the chain, but obviously the combination of a passenger's weight and lowering links brought things into conflict, as hopefully you can see here:



As the DR650 boys had urged everyone to simply ditch the roller, rather than replace it, I did likewise, and have just returned from a wonderfully quiet two-up ride with no problems at all!
It prompted me to share my experiences, in case it helps somebody else out in the future.

(Incidentally, I can find no trace of the second lower roller; did my model only ever have the upper one fitted?)
My 1998 DR350SE has both upper and lower chain rollers. Wow, the flash sure makes it look corroded, or maybe my eyes are worse than I thought.

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Old 01-13-2013, 08:53 AM   #14175
slartidbartfast
Love those blue pipes
 
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Like your solution for carrying tire irons. Have you ever lost one from this location?
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