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Old 12-03-2012, 04:14 PM   #76
Wentwest
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Good luck with the bushing. That speedo part is hell to get to and I've generally taken everything off so I could turn the cluster upside down and let gravity take the oil into the bushing. It really can scream when it's dry.

The locking screw at the front wheel for the cable is a b***h to get out, too. Soak it with penetrating oil for days, then sometimes you can get it with an impact driver and heat from a hair dryer or a heat gun. You should get a new one before you even start, because you are sure to mess up the slots on the old one. Hondas use Japanese phillips screws and they have differences in the shape of the slots. If you have a screwdriver from an old Honda tool set, use it.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:09 PM   #77
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Good luck with the bushing. That speedo part is hell to get to and I've generally taken everything off so I could turn the cluster upside down and let gravity take the oil into the bushing. It really can scream when it's dry.

The locking screw at the front wheel for the cable is a b***h to get out, too. Soak it with penetrating oil for days, then sometimes you can get it with an impact driver and heat from a hair dryer or a heat gun. You should get a new one before you even start, because you are sure to mess up the slots on the old one. Hondas use Japanese phillips screws and they have differences in the shape of the slots. If you have a screwdriver from an old Honda tool set, use it.
I just removed the cable under the panel, that was easy, and lubed the cable itself. Guess I didn't get to the bushing and that sounds like a bitch to get to. I think this might have done the trick but will know tomorrow when I can take a longer ride. Damn, I was starting to feel good about this but now I'm having my doubts. I'll post up with the results tomorrow. I have sprayed the hub connection so maybe that will loosen up if I have to attack it from that direction.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:17 AM   #78
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Haven't messed with the Elite in awhile but having heard squeaks from the drive area decided to have a look at the bearings today. I'll replace the belt while I'm at it. The bearings look good, no flat spots, but they were dry, I don't have a mic to measure them with so will do that tomorrow at work. They need to have grease on them right? The manual has them shown as being greased.

OK, I greased the weight bearings and the drive pulley sleeve and the squeak or chirp is still there. Any ideas where this is coming from? It's in the rear end somewhere. Not a good video but the sound is fine, have a listen and tell me what you think it might be please. I'm clueless...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iWD9scYTXs
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:01 PM   #79
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Sorry, my ears are too old. I can't hear anything.
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:26 PM   #80
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It's there, sort of hard to hear but it's a chirping sound. Maybe the rear wheel bearings but I don't here it if I just spin the wheel by hand. Guess I'll pull it off and have a look at the bearings. Listen closely around the 5-6 second mark and you'll hear it several times.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:25 AM   #81
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You put oil in the final drive, right?
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:13 AM   #82
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Yep, changed both oils when I got it and just checked the levels again the other night.
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Old 01-13-2013, 02:58 PM   #83
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Pulled the rear wheel tonight to see if the squeak/squeal sound went away and it seems to have. The only real bearing is in the bottom of the shock and that turns freely but not smooth, can feel the bearings hit as I turn it. It doesn't feel real bad but maybe its the culprit. The shaft is also a bit off from straight, not terrible but maybe the two in conjunction are causing the noise. No idea how hard it would be to find a new shaft but I'll check into it or maybe this one can be straightened. Is it a bitch to get off? I think I'll just replace the bearing, hopefully I can get one at my local bearing supplier. Pics to come. Should have shot a video of the shaft in movement, might do that later.

Bearing in question...



Brake shoes, how do they look? I know nothing about drum brakes and can't measure them tonight...



The bottom end of the housing is oily, is that a concern?



Sorry about the crappy iPhone pics.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:29 PM   #84
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It wasn't the bearing causing the squeak. Changed that out tonight and put the wheel back on, it's coming from the drive unit. Could be from the slightly out of true drive shaft, maybe the belt but it isn't consistent so I doubt it's that. I either tear the drive apart or just put it back together and sell it once it warms up. I'm waiting for the title to come, that'll make it pretty easy to sell. I don't want to ride it without resolving the issue and I have two other bikes waiting for winter service.
Question: With the drive shaft slightly bent, could that be causing the noise? Could the belt cause a noise like this? I can pick up a used on on ebay for around $30. I can't hear the noise with the wheel off but it's easy to hear with the wheel mounted. I'm guessing because there's weight on the shaft.
Ready to hang it up and forget about scooting for awhile.

Plan B:
Put it back together, ride the piss out of it and when the squeaking stops and something breaks pull the plate and plastics off, sell the parts on fleabay and say the hell with it, it was fun while it lasted. People already look at me funny when I ride it so the squeak isn't that big of a deal I guess.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:44 PM   #85
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If the 125 is anything like the 150 in this respect, the shaft is held in the transmission case with a press-fitted bearing, and if you remove the shaft, you need to replace that bearing, too, and hopefully with the appropriate tools, i.e. a bearing driver.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:20 PM   #86
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If the 125 is anything like the 150 in this respect, the shaft is held in the transmission case with a press-fitted bearing, and if you remove the shaft, you need to replace that bearing, too, and hopefully with the appropriate tools, i.e. a bearing driver.
and I don't have that tool. Thinking maybe I should just ride it til it stops.
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:49 PM   #87
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If the 125 is anything like the 150 in this respect, the shaft is held in the transmission case with a press-fitted bearing, and if you remove the shaft, you need to replace that bearing, too, and hopefully with the appropriate tools, i.e. a bearing driver.

When you mentioned the bearing in the shaft it got me wondering. Could it be a bad bearing that is causing the shaft to wobble? I might have the tools to press a new bearing in at work. When I turn the shaft by hand I don't feel anything out of the norm though and that makes me think its the shaft, not the bearing. I should feel friction otherwise right?
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:50 PM   #88
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When you mentioned the bearing in the shaft it got me wondering. Could it be a bad bearing that is causing the shaft to wobble? I might have the tools to press a new bearing in at work. When I turn the shaft by hand I don't feel anything out of the norm though and that makes me think its the shaft, not the bearing. I should feel friction otherwise right?
TBH I'm just going off the service manual, and my general experience. Bearings aren't my specialty. Do you have the drive plates and other stuff taken off the transmission side of the shaft? If all that is off, I would assume that it should turn freely by hand, with little to no noise. You could always try to scrub it out with a toothbrush, not a wire brush, and some light cleaner, NOT WD-40. After that try cramming in some new waterproof grease, not too much, and see if that helps.

If you ONLY have the wheel off, as is shown in the pictures, I don't think you can access the bearing itself, and when you spin it by hand, you'll hear lots of noises, since you're spinning all the gears and whatnot in the transmission, too.

Hope that helped some...
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:27 AM   #89
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TBH I'm just going off the service manual, and my general experience. Bearings aren't my specialty. Do you have the drive plates and other stuff taken off the transmission side of the shaft? If all that is off, I would assume that it should turn freely by hand, with little to no noise. You could always try to scrub it out with a toothbrush, not a wire brush, and some light cleaner, NOT WD-40. After that try cramming in some new waterproof grease, not too much, and see if that helps.

If you ONLY have the wheel off, as is shown in the pictures, I don't think you can access the bearing itself, and when you spin it by hand, you'll hear lots of noises, since you're spinning all the gears and whatnot in the transmission, too.

Hope that helped some...
I haven't pulled the drive apart yet, just have the wheel off. Guess that's next on the list. Might as well dig in there and see what's going on.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:44 PM   #90
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I haven't pulled the drive apart yet, just have the wheel off. Guess that's next on the list. Might as well dig in there and see what's going on.
I've yet to take mine apart, but I think the preferred method is to put the wheel back on so you can wedge something in it, braced against the transmission case, to keep it from spinning while you take off the nut at the end of that shaft. I think there is another CH150 thread around here that talks about all that, as it's part of the same process you have to go through to get access to the clutch bell housing, and the roller weights in the driven face.

People have talked about needing an impact wrench to get that nut off...So be prepared to either use that or a breaker bar with the correct socket. Not something you want to round off, heh. Good luck!
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