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Old 01-14-2013, 08:57 PM   #14191
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 435
rear brake

Hello,

Thanks to greg bender and 2bold2getold for there help.
On the rear brake pedal is there splines inside so you can adjust it up or down?
Mine with brakes adjusted is 2 inches to low.

Thanks for your wisdom,

Heirhead
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:09 PM   #14192
ADV BUM
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Previous owner installed the vapor computer. He did not install the temp sensor. I was going to hook it up to the spark plug like trail tech says, but I am reading people dont like those temp readings. I like the idea of hooking it up to the banjo bolt like others have done. Does any one know off hand what size loop/sensor I should order to install on the banjo bolt?

Thank you
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:28 PM   #14193
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,398
Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Thanks to greg bender and 2bold2getold for there help.
On the rear brake pedal is there splines inside so you can adjust it up or down?
Mine with brakes adjusted is 2 inches to low.

Thanks for your wisdom,

Heirhead
No splines. Looks like there is a stop bolt and lock nut in the frame just in front of the brake pedal pivot used to adjust the brake pedal upper limit. And a couple of lock nuts on the master cylinder rod, at the clevis, to adjust the throw. If your pedal isn't bent or messed with.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:34 PM   #14194
heirhead
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Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 435
Hello,

Thanks,
will try and adjust that way.

Heirhead
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:37 PM   #14195
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,235
Just got the o-ring kit from Greg Bender.

Looks like an outstanding setup. Will have pics posted when I get a chance.
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:57 AM   #14196
tntmo
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

Thanks to greg bender and 2bold2getold for there help.
On the rear brake pedal is there splines inside so you can adjust it up or down?
Mine with brakes adjusted is 2 inches to low.

Thanks for your wisdom,

Heirhead
If you are still having issues, let me know. I have three rear master cylinders in my stash of parts. We can get you going in no time!
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:49 AM   #14197
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by visovm View Post
To pick up on the discussion on page 943, I developed a slightly different attachment method for the MooseRacing skid plate I picked up through ProCycle.

I did not like the "P" mounting clamps in the back, and read about others who welded on pieces of aluminum to the rear of the skid plate to attach to the factory mounts. I dont have easy access to someone who knows how to weld aluminum, so I decided a mechanical connection could be no worse than the "P" clamps and would eliminate the bolts sticking out and getting destroyed and subsequently impossible to remove.

I have a lot of old stock aluminum, and machine hardware so that was not the issue. I used some L shaped aluminum and stainless hardware to attach the brackets to the skid plate in the proper position. This was a free mod for me since I have all the tools and materials, but I would imagine it would not be too expensive to purchase the materials if you dont have a friend who can weld it for you.

Here is the solution I came up with:








I hope this helps anyone who is considering something like this. When I have a chance to take it out and beat the heck out of it, I will report back if there are any failures.

I wish Moose and others would just weld on these tabs to use the factory mounting points. I would be willing to pay a little more for a skid plate that used all four stock mounting points.
OUTSTANDING!!!

Like you, I would have been very willing to pay extra to have the skid plate use all four stock mounting points.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:51 AM   #14198
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
Previous owner installed the vapor computer. He did not install the temp sensor. I was going to hook it up to the spark plug like trail tech says, but I am reading people dont like those temp readings. I like the idea of hooking it up to the banjo bolt like others have done. Does any one know off hand what size loop/sensor I should order to install on the banjo bolt?

Thank you
To which banjo bolt are you referring? There are several and I probably know the size or can take a quick measurement in the garage this morning.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:52 AM   #14199
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Just got the o-ring kit from Greg Bender.

Looks like an outstanding setup. Will have pics posted when I get a chance.
Glad to hear it :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:38 AM   #14200
MrPulldown
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
OUTSTANDING!!!

Like you, I would have been very willing to pay extra to have the skid plate use all four stock mounting points.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
That is a great solution. I had a local welder weld on tabs for me. Cost about $30. Which is not bad but messed with the heat treat. After smacking a couple of rocks near the weld, they have now cracked. If I only thought to bolt it together.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:10 PM   #14201
Hotmamaandme
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
Oddometer: 2,650
Rear rack forsale or trade

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...0#post20493730
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:49 PM   #14202
Drufiddy
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Sacramento
Oddometer: 29
Any little DR riders out there have a front rotor for a 94 SE? I did the Western TAT in August and bent the front a tad. Breaking power is pretty bad. Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:15 PM   #14203
O'Hooligan
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 594
OK, I need the opinions of the gathered experts on my paranoia! I removed clutch and sidestand switches and wired the connector wires together and the bike ran fine. I ran the bike a few times no problems, But then my CDI unit malfunctioned, consequently the bike won't run. I know its the cdi as I was able to swap out a borrowed one and the spark was good.

The question is was this just coincidence or did it just decide it was time to quit? Before I drop lots of $$$ on a new cdi, I want to make sure it was not something I did.

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:37 PM   #14204
VooDooDaddy
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: SW Iowa
Oddometer: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Hooligan View Post
The question is was this just coincidence...?
Yes. Many, many of us have removed the 'safety' switches from our bikes. I have had mine removed from just about every Suzuki I have ever owned, including my track-only GSX-R1000, DR350, DR650, and my Ducati track bike, and they have continued to run just as before with no issues what-so-ever.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:38 PM   #14205
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,398
Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Hooligan View Post
OK, I need the opinions of the gathered experts on my paranoia! I removed clutch and sidestand switches and wired the connector wires together and the bike ran fine. I ran the bike a few times no problems, But then my CDI unit malfunctioned, consequently the bike won't run. I know its the cdi as I was able to swap out a borrowed one and the spark was good.

The question is was this just coincidence or did it just decide it was time to quit? Before I drop lots of $$$ on a new cdi, I want to make sure it was not something I did.

Any suggestions?
I removed my side stand and clutch switches about 1200 miles ago. No problems so far.
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