Call all XR600R!!!

[elsalvadorklr]

Hey dudes, for all those that helped with my kickback scenario a few months back...after getting my clutch installed and all here is what I concluded.

1. It appears I was both lean and rich on the idle circuit, how I had some small cracks on the xr intake boot, what was weird is the many air leak tests did not alter the idle, however when riding the idle would creep...I also had too fat a pilot jet on the mikuni, a 20, instead of the 17.5 now...so that made hot starting worse too...I would kickback every 3 or 4 solid kicks....If my jetting would of been leaner I might of not had enough time to get a kicker...jajaja

2. The xrl boot I have now installed was newer than both xr boots I had, one had a brocken lower bolt mount and the second developed these weird cracks.

3. If you decide to use an aftermarket carb that has fitment issues I found out through reading many threads that the xrl boot has a slight DOWNWARD angle to it that points a bit down and to the right when facing the bike from on top...thise helps with the different cable adjusters or pulleys on some carbs...it is also slightly shorter, pulling the carb towards the head...

THINK FCR41, TM38, etc...they have big bodies and addons that make fitment somwehat of an issue

Finally, jetting

for my altitude changes of about 3500feet from up in the city to the sea I had to compromise...

so for my tm38(xrsonly) flatslide my jetting is:

pilot 17.5 2 turns out(in is rich out is lean on these carbs)
6fj41(leanest needle) in second from leanest clip(I need to be lean since I have cw hrc cam which requires less fuel at this position)
220 main jet

I beleive my throttle slide is the #2

Hope this helps anyone in a similar situation, although I dont hear of many guys switching to these old school carbs anymore

To notes is these carbs are what all the ballards guys and mostly asutralian racers used in the 80s and 90s, they were the defacto carb for big bore racers...

Christian

[Clebner]

Originally Posted by rod.whayt

omfg cold starting bitch .. yes i know its 34* out but really that many kicks and that long .....uuuggghhhhhhh wtf .. perhaps it needs a re-jet

I was having some trouble starting my bike when its cold too. I put a heat gun (glorified hair dryer) on the carb boot/ head for five minutes and it started first kick.

[lookfar]

Originally Posted by Mike the Yank

Thank God for that!

Now, part numbers?????
I want to do my XR clutch too.
Last time out it was slipping, ether the synthetic oil or the clutch has to change, I thinking maybe both.
Only want to do it once though.

Mike, you have to use an oil that has NO friction modifiers in it. I used to use Shell Super SF back in the day when the bikes were new......

[husky123]

Hey guys,

I'm finishing up my little XR project and after a couple rides my thoughts are turning to springs. A buddy of mine give me 2 "big boy" springs from his XR6R. One is an Eibach straight rate and the other a Progressive 1187 600/700.

Is anyone running the Progressive springs here? Like them? If so, is the sag setting the same? Here's a little pic of her:

[husky123]

Well there goes that idea for a cheap spring. The shock/spring my buddy gave me was from his '89 XR600R and mine is a '99. I guess Honda made the switch to a bigger bodied shock at some point? Either that or is it possible this one (on the right) is from a 650L? Eye to eye length is the same on both it's just the newer one (right) has a shorter/wider spring. Thanks for any help fella's. Just want to make sure I order the right spring.

[mcma111]

I think Honda switched to the XR650l shock for the XR600 in the mid 90's. Don't know which year.

I just thought of a way to find when Honda changed to the larger body. Go to cheapcycleparts and start checking the shock body part #. When you come to a year that has a new # then you have found the change.

[Captain115]

Hi everyone,

So I pulled the front sprocket off my 89 XR600 to check the sprocket type, number of teeth and see if there is any wear on the splines of the countershaft.

Turns out it's a 14 tooth JT sprocket. I know about the hardened sprockets destroying the splines by the counter shaft actually looked very good, almost no noticeable wear. Anyway, I went to re-install it and for the life of me I couldn't remember which way to install it: flat side out, or lumpy and written side out?

Jumped on the net but seems there are lots of different answers, which made me quite confused. Note that this is an 89, so has the 6 thick splines if that changes anything? As it was, the flat side was out but I thought that wouldn't the lumpy written side be out normally so you can read the info (number of teeth, brand, etc)?

Thanks,
John

[Dino3310]

i install mine with the lumpy written side out i asume thats the norm.

[Dual Sport Armory]

Originally Posted by husky123

Well there goes that idea for a cheap spring. The shock/spring my buddy gave me was from his '89 XR600R and mine is a '99. I guess Honda made the switch to a bigger bodied shock at some point? Either that or is it possible this one (on the right) is from a 650L? Eye to eye length is the same on both it's just the newer one (right) has a shorter/wider spring. Thanks for any help fella's. Just want to make sure I order the right spring.

When you get tired of messing with that- bring it out to us

[Royal Club]

Originally Posted by Captain115

Hi everyone,

So I pulled the front sprocket off my 89 XR600 to check the sprocket type, number of teeth and see if there is any wear on the splines of the countershaft.

Turns out it's a 14 tooth JT sprocket. I know about the hardened sprockets destroying the splines by the counter shaft actually looked very good, almost no noticeable wear. Anyway, I went to re-install it and for the life of me I couldn't remember which way to install it: flat side out, or lumpy and written side out?

Jumped on the net but seems there are lots of different answers, which made me quite confused. Note that this is an 89, so has the 6 thick splines if that changes anything? As it was, the flat side was out but I thought that wouldn't the lumpy written side be out normally so you can read the info (number of teeth, brand, etc)?

Thanks,
John

I've been rebuilding my XR, and had the same question, mounted it both ways and for me the sprocket sat best with the lumpy side OUT it aligned good with the nylon chainslider and with my fierce eye of precision It did too with the rear sprocket..

[beechum1]

Originally Posted by MCCOYBOY

Anyone have any experience with the Edelbrock carb on the xr600?

Never mind. I used the search option lol.....

I have one on my XRL.....

[beechum1]

Originally Posted by mcma111

I think Honda switched to the XR650l shock for the XR600 in the mid 90's. Don't know which year.

I just thought of a way to find when Honda changed to the larger body. Go to cheapcycleparts and start checking the shock body part #. When you come to a year that has a new # then you have found the change.

the bottom mounting bracket is different also from the XRL to XR. Don't remember which now, but I think the right shock in that pic is from the "new" xr600r. The one on the left is from the dual carb???

[nikolic]

Allright, as I have posted before, I've bought a TM40. What's the jetting I should start with considering
a have a 100mm piston . Riding from 0 to 2000m from sea

[Captain115]

Originally Posted by Royal Club

I've been rebuilding my XR, and had the same question, mounted it both ways and for me the sprocket sat best with the lumpy side OUT it aligned good with the nylon chain slider and with my fierce eye of precision It did too with the rear sprocket..

Originally Posted by Dino3310

i install mine with the lumpy written side out I assume that's the norm.

Thanks, I took your suggestions and did it that way, although it means that there is a gap between the locking mechanism and the sprocket (where the bolts go through). Doesn't seem like it would come off or anything (thanks Loctite) but does seem odd. Also, I noticed there was some forward and back play on the sprocket, as in I could move it about 2mm in and out on the counter shaft. Didn't really worry me but I thought I'd check this up, just in case.

Now, I wanted to properly look at my front pads so took them out and they are pretty worn, probably will replace them while I'm here. But more importantly, I had a look at the brake pistons, and the tops seem really chipped and cracked. Plus they seem to have an asbestos-type material in the centre of them)?



Could anyone tell me if a) these are still good or stuffed and b) why they don't look like other photos I've seen of XR6 brake pistons?

Cheers,

John

[husky123]

Originally Posted by Dual Sport Armory

When you get tired of messing with that- bring it out to us

Forks coming soon.