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Old 01-19-2013, 08:56 AM   #72991
acap650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
There are 2 reasons why you don't see grips on the DR page. First, I like to keep the number of 'general' items that folks can usually get at any shop to a minimum - especially on the pages that are so filled out like the DR page. Second, for most folks replacing grips on the DR for the first time can become a nightmare of a job.

Some day we'll have some separate pages for our favorite general items.
After reading about the throttle grip being bonded to the tube it just made sense to order a new tube with the grips-my time is worth more than the few dollars a new tube costs, and the next grip change will be easy.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:57 AM   #72992
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Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Fellas,
Can the carb inlet tube on the stock BST be rotated ?
Yup. I padded the tube with a shop rag, then applied gently-increasing torque with a wrench until it moved.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:00 AM   #72993
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Thanks fellas
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:13 AM   #72994
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grips...

Gran Turismo grips are a good option, have been around at least 40 years...they are tapered and soft in the middle, very comfortable for long rides and not too slippery...vintage British bike parts suppliers often carry them


victor441 screwed with this post 01-19-2013 at 09:42 AM
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:27 AM   #72995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porky View Post
GREAT IDEA

Have been thinking about thicker grips but want to retain my Cramp Buster. Your idea will enable me to keep my Buster.
Inerestingly enough, because I lay down a grip's-length of rope across the grip before wreapping it, with the right placing the throttle's "bulge" from that underlying end of rope it acts as sort of a cramp-buster. That, or for both hands at least an ergonomically better bulge up into the palm than a standard purely-round grip.

The neat thing, of course, is experimenting and catering the rope to your needs.

I don't ever want to go back to tiny Japanese grips again.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:35 AM   #72996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
If you look at the write up you will see that I use a drill bit with an old, dull counter-sink collar on it for grip and drill it by hand. There is really no way to loose control and damage the screw.
Sounds time consuming, but safe.
Quote:
I dont even drill all the way through the plug. The plug has a tiny hole already drilled in it which acts as a pilot for the drill bit but also allows a small fine thread screw to be turned a couple threads in if you leave a little bit of the cap when you drill.
Not drilling all the way through the plug precludes being able to tap the hole, which precludes being able to use a small puller, which opens up the possibility of cocking the plug on the way out, which opens up the possibility of cracking/breaking the fuel screw well.
Quote:
Prehaps I should remove a small amount of the spring in order to counter the increased preload?
If you knew that there were benefits to be had from increasing the spring rate, then clipping the spring would be a viable option. If not, you could modify the spring seat on either end of the spring in order to reduce the preload back to normal. The bottom one would be easiest, but the top one could be modified to simultaneously allow the slide to open all the way (as it is, it tops out ~.060" or so short).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:43 AM   #72997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If you knew that there were benefits to be had from increasing the spring rate, then clipping the spring would be a viable option. If not, you could modify the spring seat on either end of the spring in order to reduce the preload back to normal. The bottom one would be easiest, but the top one could be modified to simultaneously allow the slide to open all the way (as it is, it tops out ~.060" or so short).

Regards,

Derek

Thanks for that. I will have a look at modifying the spring seat rather than the spring length. It make sense that clipping the spring would up the rate just like a fork spring. Will the increased spring tension caused by the needle shim cause a more sluggish throttle response?
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:47 AM   #72998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
He can speak for himself.

If, however, you yourself are saying that none of you (who?) are aware of anyone who has used the stock needle with a modified airbox and achieved optimum results, I agree that with the USA needle, the possibility is slim (no need to shout BTW). If you are asserting that no one has used the non-USA stock needle with a modified airbox and achieved optimum results, then that's either because no one has tried, because whoever did try doesn't know how to tune, or because there is a better needle profile yet.Sure, let's!

The point I have been trying to make is that, based on the chart I have posted several times now, the results when using the DJ needle can hardly be called optimal, and that experience with many different needle profiles (including many of my own) on many different motorcycles has shown me that a profile such as the DJ needle has is likely to produce a wonky CO trace such as the DJ needle does in fact in practice produce. The same experience has shown me that a shape more like the non-USA adjustable needle has will in fact flatten the CO trace vs. what a needle with a shape like the DJ produces. I suppose there is always the possibility of an anomaly, but I can't see how the non-USA adjustable needle would not be an improvement over the DJ.I think that depends on the definition of the phrase "familiar with the practice of how to tune". I'm not saying that to be rude. It's just that there are different levels of experience and different levels of tuning (some of which are equipment-dependent). Unfortunately there's no way around that.

Regards,

Derek
So...Are you saying to try a non-USA (adjustable) stock needle, an open airbox, an adjustable idle-mix screw, a 150 Mikuni main jet, and a x40F0x muff with a smoothed header, at sea-level? Should the pilot jet remain stock or go a size bigger?

I'm planning to buy a brand-new DR, maybe this year. I'm willing to experiment before cutting the airbox (permanent), drilling the slide (semi-permanent), or wearing any carb components to questionable condition.
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #72999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
Gran Turismo grips are a good option, have been around at least 40 years...they are tapered and soft in the middle, very comfortable for long rides and not too slippery...vintage British bike parts suppliers often carry them

Well that was easy:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANDLEBAR-GR...sories&vxp=mtr
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:01 AM   #73000
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Originally Posted by sin3kal View Post
Not sure if this is the right place for this question but wasn't getting too much love on the DDR site since my bike is a pre 96. Anywho, I have a 93 dr650 that broke the knuckle that attaches to the kickstart shaft (yup it's one of those bikes). Not much in the way of kickstart levers for this bike specifically related to the dr650 that don't cost an arm, a leg, and a wallet. Was wondering if anyone knew if any of the kickstart levers from a dr250 or 200 have the same spline count and diameter on their mounting knuckles.
Can it be welded, machined smooth, and then heated to relieve molecular tension?
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:05 AM   #73001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Those are 'replica' grips. Does the original maker still make them?
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:37 AM   #73002
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Originally Posted by Tech23 View Post
Same here, if Suzuki were to make any changes I would rather see it receive better, fully adjustable suspension components.

Tech23
Wide-ratio 6spd and HD stator output would be cool. I don't think the current DR really needs much that the current aftermarket can't already deliver nicely. The DR-Z400 suspension could be grafted on easily and inexpensively, but could they retain the height-adjustment feature? A windscreen, luggage, 10WHP, comfy seat, knobs, skid, handguards, or huge plastic tank are also easy to add.

Let's hope that Suzuki keeps producing a good base to build from...inexpensively.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:47 AM   #73003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I want the ProGrip foam rally grips.

No-one has them
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grip-Foam-.../dp/B0036GNRIC
(just a USA google, havent actually bought them)
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:49 AM   #73004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I will have a look at modifying the spring seat rather than the spring length.
The slide spring can be easily shortened without cutting.

Slip the spring on to a 5/16" shaft or dowel (a #3 Philips screwdriver works well). Compress the spring fully and 'unwind' it a few turns. Naturally you want to measure very accurately before and after. If you go too far you can carefully stretch it back and start over.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:55 AM   #73005
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Alert: Tire Talk!

I'm getting an 18" rear rim. What are the largest tires that will fit in there on an 18? Knobbies in particular - wondering if D606 130 will fit, etc.

Also wondering if anyone has run the Maxxis Desert-IT as a dual sport tire and results?

thanks!
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