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Old 01-19-2013, 08:48 AM   #13981
Longdude
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Location: Devon, England
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Hi, I just sprayed my engine satin black. That's what I did this afternoon.

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Old 01-19-2013, 08:54 AM   #13982
Puddle
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Originally Posted by Resi View Post
Puddle,

are you looking for the bottom seal?

Cheers,
Lars

Gesendet mit Tapatalk über Erdfunkstelle Usingen/Taunus
Yes, I am about to change the bearings and I think the top one is metal and can be reused. Rob
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:10 AM   #13983
Tim
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Hello Gents,about 18 months ago I was fortunate enough to buy this beauty.



As you can see the tanks, and plastics are in very good condition.





Since then I have given it a good clean and have painted a few parts in order to tidy them up and now it is going back together again.





Which brings me to a problem that I have had with the bike. Ever since I got it it has always leaked fuel from the carbs.

Soooo, I took the carbs off to have a look at them. Now, I'm sure that you will be able to spot that the carb that was giving me the trouble is missing something quite important - like the main jet WTF?



And, upon further investigation found that something else was missing. I don't know what it is called so I'll show you what it is. It's this little brass tube (jet?) that my screwdriver is pointing at.





Now, I'm no factory trained mechanic but I'm guessing that these missing parts may be the reason why fuel is pissing out of my bike!

So, my question is what is that missing part called and where can I get one from? Also, I guess that I should be able to order a main jet from a Suzuki dealer or from Stefan Hessler?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:33 AM   #13984
Ladder106
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Hiya Tim,

Very nice bike.

So, to be terse, on to the questions.

The main jet is, indeed missing. Are you certain it wasn't in the bottom of the float bowl when you took the bowl off?

If you were not the one to replace the phillips screws with allens, then whoever was there before you seems to at least have some inkling of doing things correctly, so it's quite odd that the main would be AWOL.

Of course, the main should be replaced. If the UK is anything like the USA, the jets should be available at almost any dealer. Make certain to get the correct size. It should match the other main in number.

On the tiny brass tube, the SR41s (750s) only had a "choke" (enrichener circuit) in the left carb. Unless I'm mistaken this tube provides the fuel pickup for that circuit. The same spot in the right carb should be blanked out and not drilled for anything, correct?

Now, for the fuel leak. Unfortunately, the answer to your leakage question is "None of the above"

Fuel is leaking because one or more of the small O-rings that these carbs use is dried out/cracked/torn/square in cross section/or otherwise damaged.

You'll find these O-rings

(a) under the brass tube that holds the float valve
(b) on the plastic "tree" that supports the floats themselves
(c) on the bottom of the grey plastic throttle slide guides where the guides go into the carb body.

And the other place may be the float valves themselves. If the small black taper is dented or damaged, fuel will overflow since the floats will not stop it. From here it usually fills the crankcase...which it much worse than leaking out of the carbs.

There are also O-rings on the tiny idle mixture screws down at the bottom...they are very very small but should be replaced.

Replacing all these bits is not expensive but is a bit tedious. The bits for the grey plastic slide guides I was able to find from BMW or KTM since a few of their bikes use the same parts. The Suzuki parts diagram does not even list the slides or the O-rings as a seperate part.

Setting the float level correctly and replacing all the O-ring should solve your fuel leakage problems.

BUT...you may also want to check the fuel "T" that lives between the float bowls. There is a seal on each side of this "T". If the "T" spins around in the space between the bowls with little to no effort, these seals should be replaced. The "T" should be able to rotate but should have significant "drag" when moving it. If it seems loose, fuel will leak from that part also.

Once all these problems are solved (a bit of what's required in owning a 20 year old machine) the carbs work quite well.

Lots of information and photos if you do a search for "carbs" on this thread.

Remember to use the fuel valve on the tank and turn the fuel OFF after you put the bike away for the day. Leaving this valve on is asking for problems.

Enjoy

Ladder106 screwed with this post 01-19-2013 at 11:40 AM
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:29 PM   #13985
Resi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puddle View Post
Yes, I am about to change the bearings and I think the top one is metal and can be reused. Rob
Rob,

GSX750 (1999) Suzuki part number 51644-12C00 should do the job.

The only difference is that this seal will sit below the lower ring, you have to mount the seal before (!) the lower ring comes onto the stem.

Cheers,
Lars
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #13986
mait
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About pistons

I did some more research on pistons.
OEM pistons with valve cutouts are not sold any more. They are superceded by simple flat top pistons without any recess or cutout.
I dug out the box of the 0.5mm oversize piston set I ordered 2 or 3 years ago for my SR42. The part number is 12100-31D00-050. And the same piston set is sold now by CMSNL for SR41, SR42 and SR43.

Conclusion - flat top piston without valve cutouts will work on all DR Bigs be it SR41, SR42 or SR43.

Thanks to BigBob on drbig.info who led to the right tracks.

mait screwed with this post 01-19-2013 at 01:03 PM
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:12 AM   #13987
Tim
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Thank you very much for your reply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Hiya Tim,

Very nice bike.

So, to be terse, on to the questions.

The main jet is, indeed missing. Are you certain it wasn't in the bottom of the float bowl when you took the bowl off? Nope, wasn't in the float bowl ...........but - confession time now - I found it on my bench!

If you were not the one to replace the phillips screws with allens, then whoever was there before you seems to at least have some inkling of doing things correctly, so it's quite odd that the main would be AWOL. Replacement allens were me.

Of course, the main should be replaced. If the UK is anything like the USA, the jets should be available at almost any dealer. Make certain to get the correct size. It should match the other main in number.

On the tiny brass tube, the SR41s (750s) only had a "choke" (enrichener circuit) in the left carb. Unless I'm mistaken this tube provides the fuel pickup for that circuit. The same spot in the right carb should be blanked out and not drilled for anything, correct? Correct - I should have spotted that.

Now, for the fuel leak. Unfortunately, the answer to your leakage question is "None of the above" Thanks very much Mr Suzuki for not mentioning any of these O-rings in the troubleshooting section of the workshop manual under "fuel leakage".

Fuel is leaking because one or more of the small O-rings that these carbs use is dried out/cracked/torn/square in cross section/or otherwise damaged.

You'll find these O-rings

(a) under the brass tube that holds the float valve Replaced
(b) on the plastic "tree" that supports the floats themselves Replaced
(c) on the bottom of the grey plastic throttle slide guides where the guides go into the carb body.

This?



If so, how should it come out?

And the other place may be the float valves themselves. If the small black taper is dented or damaged, fuel will overflow since the floats will not stop it. From here it usually fills the crankcase...which it much worse than leaking out of the carbs. Replaced

There are also O-rings on the tiny idle mixture screws down at the bottom...they are very very small but should be replaced. Replaced today - haven't re-tested for leakage yet.

Replacing all these bits is not expensive but is a bit tedious. The bits for the grey plastic slide guides I was able to find from BMW or KTM since a few of their bikes use the same parts. The Suzuki parts diagram does not even list the slides or the O-rings as a seperate part.

Setting the float level correctly and replacing all the O-ring should solve your fuel leakage problems.

BUT...you may also want to check the fuel "T" that lives between the float bowls. There is a seal on each side of this "T". If the "T" spins around in the space between the bowls with little to no effort, these seals should be replaced. The "T" should be able to rotate but should have significant "drag" when moving it. If it seems loose, fuel will leak from that part also. Tested on the bench connected to a gravity fed fuel source - no leak and sufficient "drag".

Once all these problems are solved (a bit of what's required in owning a 20 year old machine) the carbs work quite well.

Lots of information and photos if you do a search for "carbs" on this thread.

Remember to use the fuel valve on the tank and turn the fuel OFF after you put the bike away for the day. Leaving this valve on is asking for problems.

Enjoy
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:34 AM   #13988
Silent Hunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FA53X View Post
letting go those few items below..

anyone interested can quote me a price..

pls email me

emailvw1@gmail.com

i will ship worldwide.

if no takers, will post on ebay soon.

item no. 1)
custom made full exhaust system with laser endcan.



item no. 2)
custom made crashbar (top crashbar using bmw gs1100 hepco & becker)



item no. 3)
devil endcan with devil midpipe



item no. 4)
custom suzuki gsxr endcan to fit devil midpipe



more pictures for reference;
close up of laser endcan for item no.1 and devil exhaust for item no. 3

AJ's Bike!!!!

Got proper cert for the exhausts to clear inspection in Singapore?
If have I buy.
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Silent Hunter screwed with this post 01-20-2013 at 07:41 AM
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:55 AM   #13989
Ladder106
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Tim,

Sounds like you have all the usual suspects already corrected.

The O-rings on the bottom of the slide guides will not normally be responsible for a lot of fuel leakage. But they do affect the carbs performance a bit.

The guides were designed as the "soft-part" in the carb that takes all the wear from the slides vibrating in and out on intake cycles from the big cylinder. They can have significant wear and cause problems with the fueling if badly worn.



To remove the slide, the needle jet (long brass tube) must be removed first.

They can be a bit stubborn so what I do it this:

Unscrew the main jet about 1 1/2 to 2 turns.

Tap the main jet toward the top of the carb with a small soft hammer or even the plastic end of a screwdriver.

This should start the guide moving upward toward the diaphragm area.

If more "persuasion" is necessary you can GENTLY thread in a 4mm screw (I think this is the correct size) that has longer threads and give it a few more taps. Careful here because I don't believe the M4 screw has exactly the same threads as the main jet and you do not want to "rethread" the brass needle jet.

If your slides require replacement, I was able to get mine from a BMW dealer. They are the same ones used on the early model BMW Funduro 650. BMW has these listed as a part number (slide and O-ring" while Suzuki makes no mention of this.

The last thing I'd recommend is to find the carb vent tube that exits the between the two carbs and is usually routed back under the seat somewhere near the airbox.

If you ride off-road or dusty conditions, a small air filter (K&N has them) clamped onto this line will prevent dirt from entering the area under the diaphragms of the carbs. Maybe you found dirt there while cleaning?

Also, On reassembly, particularly in cold weather, I'd recommend removing the bolts holding the airbox/rear fender to the frame. This will allow you to move these bits upward and back a few cm. This will give you more space to refit the carbs and make CERTAIN the boot between the carbs and the airbox is sealed correctly on the carb mouths.

Doing this seems like it takes longer but, in fact, will save time and bad language while wrestling the carbs back into place, pinching and tearing the airbox boot etc.

Lastly, make sure the carb vent tube and vacuum line (the one driving the fuel pump) are connected to the carbs BEFORE you install the carbs on the bike. There is very little space available for installing these lines after the carbs are in place.

Ladder106 screwed with this post 01-20-2013 at 08:00 AM
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:58 PM   #13990
Puddle
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Location: Canada, Ontario, Toronto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resi View Post
Rob,

GSX750 (1999) Suzuki part number 51644-12C00 should do the job.

The only difference is that this seal will sit below the lower ring, you have to mount the seal before (!) the lower ring comes onto the stem.

Cheers,
Lars
Thank you Lars. Really appreciate this. Rob
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:01 AM   #13991
spen
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Location: sunny ireland
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Stuck my center stand on ebay and sold it but the winner decided not to pay so i have had to relist it .It"s quite heavy to post so would prefer UK or Europe . You can make me an offer on it if interested.
NOW SOLD THANKS

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Old 01-21-2013, 02:33 PM   #13992
KilgoreTrout
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Eh? Centerstand

Quote:
Originally Posted by spen View Post
Stuck my center stand on ebay and sold it but the winner decided not to pay so i have had to relist it .It"s quite heavy to post so would prefer UK or Europe . You can make me an offer on it if interested.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DR-750-800...item27cf1a7969
So tell me again just how ridiculous the shipping(cheapest option) is to Canada T3E 6A5 as it still might be cheaper than a welder
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:59 PM   #13993
spen
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Shipping is coming back £60 /£70 .far to expensive although my sister is visiting from Toronto in July , if i still have it i will send it back on the plane with her
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:18 PM   #13994
FA53X
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Location: SINGAPORE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Hunter View Post
AJ's Bike!!!!

Got proper cert for the exhausts to clear inspection in Singapore?
If have I buy.

No proper cert for the exhausts to clear inspection in Singapore.

The devil exhaust is street legal and it came along with my drbig 750. i prefer the devil exhaust compare to laser exhaust but did the switch due to certification issues.

The laser exhaust modification done by AJ will not clear inspection in Singapore. Modification inspired by the KTM.


FA53X screwed with this post 01-21-2013 at 06:22 PM Reason: typo
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:36 AM   #13995
Tim
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I have just spent several hours on the carbs and one is still pissing fuel out

I went right back to square one and stripped them down, removed all of the O-rings and gave them a good clean, wash and dry. Dried everything and gave them a thorough blow through with compressed air. As I already mentioned I have replaced all of the O-rings and lightly lubricated them as I put the carbs back together. I set the float heights using a digital vernier calliper to get them as accurate as I could.

I stood the carbs on my bench and connected up my remote fuel tank, switch on the fuel and within a few seconds fuel starts to run out of the right hand carb. The fuel seems to come from this small hole.



I opened up the float bowl on the leaking carb and bent the float valve arm so that it was virtually closed even when upside down and them tried again - you guessed it! - still fuel leaking out so, how is the fuel getting into and overfilling the float bowl if the float valve is shut?

Any help will be much appreciated - I'm starting to love my fuel injected bikes more and more!

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