it's just a ride..... Miami to Patagonia before the end of the world...

[DSM8]

Originally Posted by rruugger

W'll even feed ya Marcelo!

You've seen what he eats right?

He can live off your front lawn (yes he eats grass, there I said it )

Vegans.....

[rruugger]

the only other vegan over here is a tortoise.

[Hessian42]

Nothing wrong with a little grass










Update on previous page.....

[Hessian42]

Arizona continued...

Meteor crater



The cost





Window rock Navajo Nation








Canyon de chelley

Arizona the story......

So last I left off on page 4 I was in Flagstaff and had finally split with the rider from Moab I had joined up with. The relief and sense of freedom from being alone again was reviving. I really can’t explain it but I’ve learned to accept that I’m just better off alone. I decided to slab it to Window Rock, AZ where I would meet up with 2 guys I had ran into in Arches/Moab. They were into rock climbing and had offered me a place to crash for a few days if I made it down that way. They also had told me about Canyon De chelly which wasn’t far from Window Rock and the old native cliff dwellings which really interested me. I rode East on I-40 straight towards the Arizona/ New mexico border. The ride was boring and when I saw a sign for Meteor crater I decided to take a detour and check it out.

I had seen pictures of the crater before and had read about it and being into cosmology I was siked to see an actual meteor impact crater. As my experience at Mammoth caves back in Kentucky should have taught me anything that requires a ridiculous fee or a tour should be skipped at all costs. This will be road rule # 4 in my book. I rode up to the entrance and was surprised by how small the crater actually was. From the pics it looked like a small town could be built at the bottom but this was not the case at all. Second shock was how much they were charging for a person to go look at a big hole on the ground. $25 dollars if I remember correctly and I was very hesitant to shed out over 75% of my daily budget on this hole. I haggled with the attendant for a while trying to get a senior or junior discount but she said my beard was too long and not white enough. Turns out some clever guy had bought the hole back in the day and decided to make his living out of charging people to look at it. Reluctantly I decided to bite the bullet and pay the stupid fee since I was already there. As soon as I walked in the regret washed over me. The crater wasn’t too impressive, they had built the tourist rails/stand to where you had to stay on and you only got one point of view of the crater. No walking around or exploring and definitely no going to the bottom. I took a few shots to make the best of it, used the bathroom, filled up my camelback and was probably out of there in under 20 min. Lesson learned or not.

Heading east back on 40 with a bad taste in my mouth I saw another sign for the petrified forest, thinking back now this might have been a better detour but i passed it and just throttled on. Eventually I veered north towards window rock right before the border. Stopped for gas at a small station and noticed I was in Native territory and the atmosphere had quickly changed. I had seen a dirt road on my map that would save me some time and asked the attendant about it. She said it wasn’t bad and I’d have no problems on it on my loaded bike. After gassing up I headed north on 191 and looked for any signs of the dirt road. Saw a bunch of dirt roads with no signs and spent some time exploring a few of them which all led to dead ends. It was getting late so I decided to just slab it up 191 and take it all the way to window rock.

Window rock caught me by surprise to say the least. I had heard of the poor conditions natives lived in but was not ready for the shock of how westernized the people had become. I had no cel service and decided to pull into a Mcdonalds for some wifi to let these guys know I was there. There were native teens dressed in skinny jeans with gauged ears, tats and slick girls hair playing on their iphones. Tons of natives munching on mcdeath food. Drunks stumbling about in the parking lot asking for money and looking shady. Finally I noticed I was the only “white” guy hanging aroundI wasn’t uncomfortable at all. But the sights were getting to me and I was eager to get on my way to somewhere fast.

Finally I hooked up with the two guys and we shoot over to their house to drop off the bike and my crap. They both worked for the Navajo nation, freaking lawyers but environmental lawyers so not so bad. They lived inside a gated sort of community with really nice prefabbed homes, a far luxury compared to the standards the native people were living in outside. We hopped In the car and they took me to see the window rock. It was a pretty cool looking place with crazy rock formations but there were buildings all around it so it wasn’t pristine by any sense. We did a bit of bouldering around and I got to take some shots and learn a bit of history about the place. After a bit of talk they decided to drive to canyon de chelley to go check out the cliff dwellings and do a bit of climbing. We shot up route 7 straight to the canyon and made it there just passed sun down. I hadn’t packed my tripod but managed to get a respectable low light shot of the canyon anyways. Hung out there for an hour or so talking and learning more about the Navajo. The place had a pretty magic feel to it at night and reminded me of being in the middle of the everglades at night watching stars. We split a room in the nearby town and grabbed a quick dinner and a few brews. In the morning we were to hit the canyon around sunrise to do a bit of hiking and climbing.

Cannyon de chelley looked completely different and had a very different vibe during the day. I hadn’t imagined the scope of the place at night and even coming from Grand canyon the previous week this place just had a magic of it’s own. I don’t have many pics of the guys or that day and the reason is I really don’t like taking pictures of people. Maybe it’s because I don’t like pictures of myself being taken but I just feel awkward and rude taking pics of people so I simply don’t. We spent the day hiking around doing a bit bouldering and a couple of climbs. To say I was instantly hooked to climbing and a natural would be an understatement. We headed back to window rock later that night and I spent another night there learning, sharing and eating. I had a great time with these guys and they had gotten me hooked on a new vice climbing. They had also introduced me for better or worse into the reality of what the American system has done to the original people of this land. The next day I packed my crap said my goodbyes and hit the road. The Antelope canyons and my most horrible experience while in the Navajo nation were up next...

[Scottishman]

Hi there. I'm new to ADVRider and RR's. Also new to riding. Planning a trip from Bogata to Ushalia to Buenos Aires next fall, so reading your RR with great interest. Keep up the great work.

However, that's not really why I reached out to you! I must say that your pics are simply stunning. You have a great eye for color and composition. Truly magnificent. You say you're not a professional, but IMHO, you have a real talent, and perhaps something you should pursue after you finish your adventure.

Ride safe and keep up the great work.

Cheers

[slide]

Marcelo:

You mention that you found supporting yourself through photography difficult. How did you envision this happening? I mean, who did you think you sell your services or photographs to?

[Hessian42]

Originally Posted by slide

Marcelo:

You mention that you found supporting yourself through photography difficult. How did you envision this happening? I mean, who did you think you sell your services or photographs to?

Why the tone?

I had hoped people following along the adventure would appreciate the time and great effort involved in taking the type of shots I take by helping me stay on the road and buying a print or two. Though as I already knew before leaving hope is for the weak and one only achieves things in life he makes happen himself. I don't have to share my trip, the places I've been, the way i see things or the stories I've lived, but I do it anyway. The help I've received from the few members of this site I've met in person is more than I could have ever hoped for and without it i wouldn't be where i am.

For those guys and the many who will come, I do it for them!

[NSFW]

great pics.

marcelo i heard you met max and the man formerly called sir-crashalot....

hope you're enjoying the warm socal weather.

[Hessian42]

Antelope canyons

If there is a fee involved pass it on… To give a little background the canyons are located inside Navajo land and as such are owned and operated by the Navajo. From my understanding one is not allowed to simply go there without a Navajo escort and so they have setup tours to visit the canyons. I shot over to the area that day with enthusiasm of seeing the same canyons I had seen in photos with the magic light and slick water carved walls. Though as soon as I came within 10 miles or so of the place I noticed the coal burning power plant emitting it’s toxic gases into the air and was instantly downed. Little did I know this plant would end up being less than a mile or so away from the canyons. Upon arriving at the parking lot of the tour area I was instantly thrown back at how commercialized the whole thing was. There were giant tour buses coming in from vegas with mostly Asian tourists among many others. The tour area held a small shack where you’d pay $35 dollars for a 4x4 ride with a small group and a Navajo escort to the canyon. While parking the bike and securing my gear I felt the dense atmosphere and already regretted being there. Watching the moon set behind the high powered lines and coal plant sure didn’t help.

I set out to do what I had planned and went up to the shack, paid my fee and proceeded to wait with a the other tourists. As luck or faith or chance would have it the group I waited with were 6 and I ended up being odd number 7. Since the converted bed of the 4x4 tour truck only fit 6 I got to ride shotgun with my guide. Who again by chance or what have you ended up being non other than the granddaughter of the original Najavo elder who as a child stumbled upon and discovered the canyons. Not being much of a conversationalist I somehow ended up deep into one with my guide. She proceeded to tell me the whole story behind the canyons, her grandmothers discovery and so forth. She opened up and basically talked the entire ride there while I mostly just listened. In addition to hearing about the canyon and it’s history we somehow ended up talking about the power plant. She told me how the power company had persuaded her grandmother among other elders to sign a land contract to build the plant. Promises were made that jobs would be made available to the Navajo and that the electricity generated would be first routed to benefit the local area and people. Nothing but lies as is the norm with ALL industry and corporations of this planet. She went on to mention how local livestock, plant life and unfortunately the very people of the area were chronically ill and suffering from the emissions of the plant. The power generated was sent out to power places outside the Nation like Vegas. She mentioned how different cancers, lung and immunity diseases were common in the area, affecting everyone from the elderly to the young. The more I listened and learned the more disgusted I became and the more I wanted to leave however I knew I had to experience what was happening and stick through it.

“Those who seek the truth deserve the penalty of finding it”

Once we got to the staging area of the canyons I was overwhelmed by the amount of people and 4x4s in the place. There must have been at least a dozen trucks and over 50 people standing around, each group of tourists with their own Navajo guide. The guides somewhat coordinated leading the groups through the canyons so we were waiting for our turn. After my guide stepped off the truck and back into the “real world” all I saw were dollars signs in her eyes. After riding through the Nation and witnessing the shacks, drunks and poor conditions these people had to endure I really couldn’t blame her. She finally led our group through and the place was packed to the point where it was claustrophobic to be there. The groups were rushed through and there was maybe 6 feet of space between us. Sometimes groups piled up while people flashed photography of themselves against the beautifully smooth carved walls which must have taken nature millions of years to carve. I felt like I was alone in a sea of zombies and the only one taken back by what was happening to this magic place and these once proud and flourishing people. Though with camera in hand I was so disgusted and overwhelmed by the whole experience that I only managed to snap a few shots. It felt wrong to be there! This was a sacred beautiful place turned commercial merely because of the conditions the very native people of this land were forced to endure. Thoughts and feelings ran wild while witnessing the masses hypnotized by the beauty while ignoring the truth. I wanted nothing more but for this whole experience to end!

The whole ride back again riding shotgun I was shocked and stunned while listening yet to more and more about the Navajo and their miserable daily lives. I got back to the parking lot packed up and left the place in disbelief, anguish and with my stomach in knots. I couldn’t belief what I had just heard, learned and witnessed but I knew my gut had led me there for a reason. I spent the rest of the day in silence just wanting to find a hole to crawl into. I headed northwest towards the Vermillion cliffs where I would spend the night listening to the Colorado carving away at the land and contemplating the events of that day.

[slide]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

Why the tone?

I had hoped people following along the adventure would appreciate the time and great effort involved in taking the type of shots I take by helping me stay on the road and buying a print or two. Though as I already knew before leaving hope is for the weak and one only achieves things in life he makes happen himself. I don't have to share my trip, the places I've been, the way i see things or the stories I've lived, but I do it anyway. The help I've received from the few members of this site I've met in person is more than I could have ever hoped for and without it i wouldn't be where i am.

For those guys and the many who will come, I do it for them!

I didn't mean to imply attitude but just a simple query. I have a friend who also expected to support himself (partly) by snapping as he went, but hasn't found it practical to both travel and find solid subject matter.

I was wondering if you had a contract with some commercial site or magazine or other publication. After all, it's a dream for some of us to travel but we don't have the spare money or can't stand the loss of income during the travel so something to work at and earn as we travel would be a boon. That's all I was after.

[WhicheverAnyWayCan]

Hessian, your blog is not letting me in. Said it is only for invited only reader?

[rruugger]

Man! When Marcelo takes a pic in our local hills it feels as thou I'm in an exotic local . kick'n the crap out of my usual cell phone pics. Riding across the ridge while the fog rolled over the top of us was sweet for sure

[Hessian42]

Originally Posted by WhicheverAnyWayCan

Hessian, your blog is not letting me in. Said it is only for invited only reader?

Alright blog should be back up and running.

[Hessian42]

Considering other options to keep moving forward.......

[DSM8]

I am confused, why the sudden change in tactics for the trip?