Ask your WELDING questions here.

[kioti]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Question for the oxy-acetylene folks: How often should I be taking my torch in to have the o-rings serviced/replaced? Its a Victor set and is only used sporadically for home/hobby use for cutting and heating.

TIA

Most likely never unless they cause a problem, I bought my first set of Victor Journeymans in 1982 and they are used daily in the shop and have never had the need for servicing.

[JAFO]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Question for the oxy-acetylene folks: How often should I be taking my torch in to have the o-rings serviced/replaced? Its a Victor set and is only used sporadically for home/hobby use for cutting and heating.

TIA

Why would you take them in? Buy replacement orings of the proper sort and do them yourself. It's not rocket science

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[GSWayne]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Question for the oxy-acetylene folks: How often should I be taking my torch in to have the o-rings serviced/replaced? Its a Victor set and is only used sporadically for home/hobby use for cutting and heating.

TIA

I have a set from the 1960s, rarely used, and it still has the original o-rings.

[mark1305]

Thanks all. I guess they will last a good long while. I had read somewhere on the usegroup/newsgroup I hung out on to self-teach myself welding & cutting that it was a prudent thing to do. And I am a little paranoid about OA after some of the stories posted by pros on that group.

[JAFO]

Originally Posted by mark1305

Thanks all. I guess they will last a good long while. I had read somewhere on the usegroup/newsgroup I hung out on to self-teach myself welding & cutting that it was a prudent thing to do. And I am a little paranoid about OA after some of the stories posted by pros on that group.

I can certainly understand your cocerns- look back a few pages and you will see that I had same concerns myself a few back.

Replacement of the rings is not a bad idea as if they are bad you can get a flashback through the torch body. But other than the rings there isn't much else involved in a torch. Get the proper orings and install them yourself. Honestly it is easy. Not to be blunt, but if you can't handle replacing few orings you are probably gonna want to leave the oxy-fuel torch alone. ;-)
Oh yeah- install flashback arrestors, at least at the regulator.

I started with o-a a few months ago, bought a training dvd at Northern Tool for 30 bones.. VERY helpful and I recommend this highly!

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[clintnz]

So I'm about to make some new stronger pannier rails & a rear rack for the 640, will use 5/8 4130 tubing. First thing will be to machine up some mounting bushes from solid bar.

Now, I'm probably overthinking this but... the local steel store has 4140 I could use (& the few scraps needed won't cost much), or I have some plain mild steel on hand. Am I likely to get an appreciably stronger joint with the 4140 to 4130 (will TIG weld & post heat treat with the MAP torch if required) or is there not much in it?

Cheers
Clint

[Benesesso]

Originally Posted by clintnz

So I'm about to make some new stronger pannier rails & a rear rack for the 640, will use 5/8 4130 tubing. First thing will be to machine up some mounting bushes from solid bar.

Now, I'm probably overthinking this but... the local steel store has 4140 I could use (& the few scraps needed won't cost much), or I have some plain mild steel on hand. Am I likely to get an appreciably stronger joint with the 4140 to 4130 (will TIG weld & post heat treat with the MAP torch if required) or is there not much in it?

Cheers
Clint

I'd go with the 4140. Having heat treated many tons of it, it's good stuff. However, it is much more likely to develop hard brittle areas next to the welds (the HAZs) than 4130, so the use of post weld heat is strongly advised. I'd also preheat it a little, say up to ~250F. After welding, use the MAPP torch and get it to dull red hot--as seen inside a garge out of strong daylight. Do NOT take it to cherry red!

It only needs a few seconds at dull red (~1050-1150F), then just let it air cool. You do not want to reheat it past 1300F!

[Pilbara]

I have searched Lincoln site and googled but cannot locate a wiring diagram for a Lincoln Weldanpower 300+ engine driven welder using a Kubota engine. Code is 1316. Model is WP300+. Made in Australia by the looks of it. Any leads appreciated
Cheers
Pilbara

[David R]

Originally Posted by Pilbara

I have searched Lincoln site and googled but cannot locate a wiring diagram for a Lincoln Weldanpower 300+ engine driven welder using a Kubota engine. Code is 1316. Model is WP300+. Made in Australia by the looks of it. Any leads appreciated
Cheers
Pilbara

This is for your code # kabota engine pipeliner 200.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...oln3/im844.pdf

not sure if this is it, code #s have 5 digits.

David

[overlandr]

I have some shipping containers used for storage and need to weld on some steel lock boxes to protect the padlocks from everything but cutter grinders.

There is a single phase power supply 240vac up to 13amps available. I would like to consider purchasing my own welder to weld these boxes onto the containers as the cost of getting a contractor to do it would mean if I do it myself, I'll save and get to keep the welder for other jobs.

What welder would be suitable for this job?

[David R]

Originally Posted by overlandr

I have some shipping containers used for storage and need to weld on some steel lock boxes to protect the padlocks from everything but cutter grinders.

There is a single phase power supply 240vac up to 13amps available. I would like to consider purchasing my own welder to weld these boxes onto the containers as the cost of getting a contractor to do it would mean if I do it myself, I'll save and get to keep the welder for other jobs.

What welder would be suitable for this job?

How thick is the steel?

Do the math, 13 amps @ 220 volts = 2860 watts

Stick Welding at 35 volts, you will have 81 amps not counting 25% loss in efficiency.

I weld 3/32 7018 at 85 amps DC. Not quite enough there.

Mig welding at 18.6 volts you have 150 amps available using c/25. still not counting loss.

Does this help?

[Benesesso]

Originally Posted by overlandr

I have some shipping containers used for storage and need to weld on some steel lock boxes to protect the padlocks from everything but cutter grinders.

There is a single phase power supply 240vac up to 13amps available. I would like to consider purchasing my own welder to weld these boxes onto the containers as the cost of getting a contractor to do it would mean if I do it myself, I'll save and get to keep the welder for other jobs.

What welder would be suitable for this job?

A smaller inverter welder for stick electrodes. Practice until you get good with 6010. With 6010 you can weld right thru paint and rust and get good enough welds for what you're doing. Won't have to worry about outdoor windy days either. If you end up getting an inexpensive AC-only welder, use 6011 instead.

Try 1/8" 6010--doesn't need many amps to get deep penetration. Be careful not to burn right thru the doors!

Otherwise get a 220v MIG setup and use flux-core wire w/o any gas. Flux-core will work in the wind and the arc digs in deeper than MIG.

[JAFO]

I am going to have to offer my non-professional opinion, born of experience here:

A 120vac MIG is more than up to the job for welding lock boxes to connex-container steel doors.

I built three jeeps I have beat the hell out of with my Lincoln 3200HD, welding from 1/16" high-tensile steel sheet (jeep Cherokee monocoque) to 1/4" structural sub frames and OEM chassis (S10 solid axle swap, bumpers and axle bracketry). I have had no problems at all using (flux core E71T-GS) and (ER70S-6 with CO2).

Metallurgically speaking, I am sure this is likely not optimum, but I have never had a problem with these builds and have winched many times without problems, several hard pulls.

Also, used a Lincoln AC225 for some parts of these builds, using 6013, but those welds are by far in the minority since I don't have ready access to 220vac.

Since the OP is new to this and just wants to get a task done and then play with/learn a skill, I would lean toward the stick machine and look for one used on craigslist. I paid $125 for my AC225. Recommend staying away from the Harbor Freight welders as they can be hit/miss.

Also, since presumably the OP doesn't have the ability to do these welds in flat position, I suspect the hardest part will be dealing with the out-of-position nature of this welding task. I think I would run them uphill to keep the slag out of the joint, and clean well with a grinder first. Probably not strictly necessary owing to the rod selected, but you can never clean a weldment too well before burning in.

My experience, and again I am not a professional welder but I have actually welded onto this material at work with the MIG mentioned above.

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[Stan_R80/7]

Hopefully, this will not be a really vague question. I am looking to weld/braze an aluminum fork 'tang' and am scoping out what is needed. The fork is for a BMW /7 motorcycle and the tang is part of the brakes. Specifically, the tang stops the pad from rotating with the disc as the brakes are applied. Here is pic of the lower tang:

The maximum thickness is ~ 3/8" near the fork and tapers to 3/16" furthest away. The project involves taking a left fork leg and converting it into a right fork leg, i.e. making a mirror image. This involves cutting the tang off the left fork inside (nearest the disc) and welding/brazing it to the left front outside (which becomes the right front inside).

My equipment is not heavy duty, I have a Hobart handler 140 with 0.030" 5356 aluminum wire and argon gas. This welder is rated for 1/8" thickness. I also have (and am willing to try) brazing with HTS-2000 type aluinum/zinc using a sheet metal 'mold' to hold the pre-heated and tinned fork and tang in place. I am not a very experienced welder, but have done a bit of oxy-acetylene and some MIg. I have done a lot of brazing.

My questions are:
1. If I file/grind and bevel the fork and tang so there is a 1/8" thickness at the tang and fork pieces, which then increase to ~ 3/8", can a root pass be done with my 140 amp welder with ~ 200 deg F preheat? Or, will this approach likely result in a big mess without considerable skill due to the extra thickness and fork acting as a heat sink?

2. Presuming I can get the 1/8" thick root pass weld to get the tang in place, will adding material (i.e. additional passes) work with that small of a welder? Again, preheat is planned and beads would be applied over the previous weld in a multi-pass approach.

My main concern is that the fork leg is a big heat sink and even with pre-heating will pull heat from the weld. I can arrange the fork and piece on a welding table, and can pre-heat with a Mapp gas or propane. I intend to practice on some 6061 aluminum but those will be small flat pieces and nothing like a fork tube. Any constructive criticisms are welcome - along with tips on locating and recognizing a good weld shop - although this project is not beyond motivating me to buy a 225 amp spoolgun machine.

[David R]

I am at lunch. IN a word no.

Your mig will not do it. You don't have near enough power.

I can elaborate more tonight.

I did my /6 by buying a set of sliders off a 900S from Eurotech in California for $400. I had to send my old stuff back.
It came with caliper, rotor master cylinder and lines all used but inspected and guaranteed to be in good condition. It was. That was in 1993. I am still riding the bike.

Enjoy your bike
David