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Old 01-21-2013, 10:01 AM   #31
Lost on Row 1
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[QUOTE=buls4evr;20539927]
2. An engine can partially seize and not lock all the way up solid if you catch it fast enough. Early Bultaco Astro owners know this feeling well[/QUOTE]

Amen to that.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:48 PM   #32
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Keep us posted Kay.....
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:08 AM   #33
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Definitely sounds like coil or condenser breaking down with heat causing the engine hiccups. I've seen that many times with autos too. As for carb cleaning, the Pine-sol treatment (50/50 with hot water) works very well. Used that trick on my old Evinrude outboard with ancient 2t fuel in the bowl. Not necessary to remove the jets. Just rinse and blow dry after soaking overnight or 24hrs.

See http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117

Hope all the advice helps. You've got a neat bike there.

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Old 01-22-2013, 07:10 AM   #34
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You might even be able to get a condenser at an auto parts store. Take it in with you and try to match up the parts and numbers and mounting. I seem to remember some early Chevy distributors used those condensers.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:09 PM   #35
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I too have considered the condensor electrical idea only because I have read about other KH100s with similar symptoms to mine being fixed with a new condensor. Now, I know what the condensor does theoretically BUT where exactly is it, somewhere in the left side with the magneto?

There is no Pine-sol in Australia I'm afraid. I wonder what else I could use.



Quote:
Originally Posted by EB1156 View Post
Definitely sounds like coil or condenser breaking down with heat causing the engine hiccups. I've seen that many times with autos too. As for carb cleaning, the Pine-sol treatment (50/50 with hot water) works very well. Used that trick on my old Evinrude outboard with ancient 2t fuel in the bowl. Not necessary to remove the jets. Just rinse and blow dry after soaking overnight or 24hrs.

See http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117

Hope all the advice helps. You've got a neat bike there.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
You might even be able to get a condenser at an auto parts store. Take it in with you and try to match up the parts and numbers and mounting. I seem to remember some early Chevy distributors used those condensers.
I can get a condensor for $25 tomorrow. Is it hard to install? I have the Clymer and Kawasaki manual so I'll have a read.

I thought I would look into the left side/timing cover to see if I could spot it. I couldn't see it but I did note a little bit of grease or oil (not sure) in the bottom of the case. Bad sign? Is this my leak?



The clear smudge is where I ran my finger. There is a bit of grime in there for sure.

KayAitch screwed with this post 01-22-2013 at 10:27 PM
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:21 PM   #37
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So this is where I am at:

1. Clean carb and put back together.

2. New condensor to be purchased and installed. Should I look at doing the coil and points too? This is as new to me as the carb. Should be interesting.

3. To find out if that hole is supposed to be in the choke plunger side of the carb body or not and if not, plug it up with a washer and some epoxy.

4. Check magneto side for leak. I might already have my answer there.

Lots to do.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:44 AM   #38
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So my best guess after seeing the mag.... A bad crank seal is very possible. The points are EZ enuf to replace but are behind that flywheel. So...

1. Outer case off

2. Soak down flywheel center thoroughly with a substance like PB Blaster if you have that there.

3. You will need a center pull flywheel puller that threads into those big dia threads after your remove the flywheel nut.DO NOT TRY TO USE AN EXTERNAL PULLER..... USE THE RIGHT ONE!

4. The flywheel is probably really on there. Put pressure on the puller by holding with one wrench and torquing with another. It may help to put a turn or 2 on the puller then let it sit for a while to get penetrating fluid into the taper. Some guys tap on them. I don't like to do this as it may damage the crank end or puller threads. After it sits a bit then try again and usually off comes the flywheel.

5. Let me say I don't trust your re-build guy. Nothing was cleaned up in there. There should be a keyed, tapered shaft that you need to clean off, but first look right at that rubber seal around the crank! Bet that drool trail can be traced right to it. That seal was likely NOT REPLACED.

6. Replace the crank seal. I think you should be able to use a small lady finger like pick to get it out. A seal shop can get you another from the numbers on it. At this point have someone hold the bike down firmly (a fat friend helps here), and see if that crank play is evident. should be no up/down at all.

7. Your condenser is right with the points plate. It is an alum cylinder about 1/2 in by 1 1/2 in long with 1 wire off from it. If you can get points or if yours look bad.....well now is the time to replace those 2.

8. Crankseals must be put on proper direction and I usually use a little Vaseline to put them over that cleaned shaft. Carefully and uniformly press back into the case. Key back in shaft and lightly tap to seat it. Points and cond in? All wire nuts tight? Time to put flywheel carefully back on. It should go most of the way back on and feel snug BEFORE you try to tighten the nut. Torque to spec. Usually hardest part is devising a way to hold the twisting flywheel here. There is a proper clamping tool to use and you might borrow one. It goes around the outside of the flywheel dia and lodges up against the case to hold it still.

Yup, some more work to do................
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:36 AM   #39
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Magneto side crank seal would suck air, making it lean, high revs. Not exactly what you described.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:31 PM   #40
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Thumb electrical

I would bet good money, that this is the condenser or coil from the symptoms OP has described.
I would buy new points at the same time as the condenser and coil, but not install them yet. OP's skill level is limited, so why add timing to the learning curve until it is needed.

BUT I would try blocking the hole in the carb first, if that is known to be a fix on this model bike.

Limit the repairs to one system at a time, until you find the cause. There is plenty of time to learn the rest of the systems.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:02 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by tokyoklahoma View Post
I would bet good money, that this is the condenser or coil from the symptoms OP has described.
I would buy new points at the same time as the condenser and coil, but not install them yet. OP's skill level is limited, so why add timing to the learning curve until it is needed.

BUT I would try blocking the hole in the carb first, if that is known to be a fix on this model bike.

Limit the repairs to one system at a time, until you find the cause. There is plenty of time to learn the rest of the systems.

Because that would mean pulling off the flywheel a second time. You are already doing the operation to get to the ignition....why do it twice? He needs to know how to set up and check points also. No better time to learn than now IMO.And that could also be part of his problem....Timing could be off a long ways.It is clear that no one has been inside that flywheel for years. I really agree with you on that carb hole blocking though. Try some silicone in it to see if that helps at least. That way you could dig it back out if it screws something up.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:15 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by KayAitch View Post
I can get a condensor for $25 tomorrow. Is it hard to install? I have the Clymer and Kawasaki manual so I'll have a read.

I thought I would look into the left side/timing cover to see if I could spot it. I couldn't see it but I did note a little bit of grease or oil (not sure) in the bottom of the case. Bad sign? Is this my leak?



The clear smudge is where I ran my finger. There is a bit of grime in there for sure.


You need to check very carefully for any up-down play in the crank. If there is the slightest amount of movement, its going to need new main bearings. Contrary to popular belief crank seals dont generally fail, but will leak if there is any play in the main bearings.


If there is no play, then change points and condenser, and also check resistance of primary and secondary ignition coils. To change these parts you will need the correct flywheel puller, a flywheel holder (or electric/air impact gun), correct size socket, and tools required to remove points/condenser.

After flywheel nut has been removed, screw the puller fully home into the flywheel, then tighten the puller forcing bolt, and when it is tight a sharp blow on the end of the bolt with a medium weight engineers hammer will generally release the flywheel.

When its time to put the flywheel back on, make certain the crankshaft taper and the flywheel itself are scrupulously clean, or there may be problems with flywheel key shearing. Next you need to torque flywheel nut to the proper figure, using a proper flywheel holding tool. Finally set points gap, and check timing, then you will be ready to test.

If at all possible try to get genuine Kawasaki ignition parts, as the Chinese stuff is often very poor quality, and sometimes new condensers dont work properly.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:55 AM   #43
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Wow, thanks heaps for all this folks. I will reply and update properly in due course. At this stage I haven't had much chance to try the carb fix and that is what I will do first.

I have checked the timing and I am 100% certain it is spot on ;)
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:33 PM   #44
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Catch Up

Finally I've got around to doing a little bit of work on the bike so here is an update.

I've had this repro exhaust pipe from Asia sitting in a box for about 6 months. See, I bought the pipe from Asia for something like $80 only to find it had no internals. It was too good to be true. So having neither the tools or knowledge to do it I took it all to a local exhaust dude to work on it. It looks great and the bike really revs out now. Sounds more like a 2 stroke too. It now has a power band I can feel. It feels QUICK even.

Here it is with the new (low quality) chrome:


While I was waiting for the pipe I pulled apart the carb and gave it a good clean with carby cleaner. I kept the needle in its current position because I figured it was a touch rich, but with a new pipe that will be less clogged and breath better, it will probably go lean by itself. Logical? To my uneducated newbie ways, sure.

Putting the carb back together was fun. I should have taken photos of the order in which I pulled it apart but after 2 or 3 goes I managed to get all the tangly springs, rods, cables, needles, plungers all as they should be.

I have since cut out a small washer and plugged that choke plunger hole in the carb. Interestingly, after plugging it I had a little bit of trouble starting it (the bike always starts 1st or 2nd kick, hot or cold) so I saw this as the perfect test to find out if the choke has its own hole inside the carb. Pulled the choke and it came to life. This maybe tells me that that hole was definitely not meant to be open like that, and that maybe the easy starting was because the hole was letting air in creating a permanent choke pulled situation.

The plug:


Now, the news. Bike ran GREAT. Today is a hot 34 degree day so I just took it around the local industrial estate not too far from home and it was good. Except, albeit it taking longer to do it, it still started stuttering so I shut it down and let it cool before taking it home.

So, it looks like it's time to do ignition, points and condenser. I'm tossing up whether to do it myself or not. From the advice you folks have given me it doesn't seem too hard. I do need to find myself the right flywheel puller though.

Cheers,

Dan
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:38 PM   #45
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Cheers for that FR700. Apart from the puller is there any other special tools I need? I've got just about everything else.

Secondly, I'm wondering how important it is I get Kawasaki parts? Pattern parts seem much cheaper, probably for good reason I'm sure.
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