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Old 10-23-2012, 11:20 AM   #121
beechum1
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Not home in Tijuana
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Infusion will come later. Maybe a peel ply first will keep the resin from disappearing from the fabric? I'm about to start set 2.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:38 AM   #122
Thunderhart8
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Jackson, MS
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I have been reading this thread for a few hours and I would like to thank you guys for the DIY info thread. I may take on a project or two over the winter break to create a auxiliary fuel tank. Thanks again guys !!
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:52 AM   #123
Thunderhart8
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Bump,,
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:53 PM   #124
RandM
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Joined: Oct 2013
Location: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria - Australia.
Oddometer: 178
Hi guys,
I've done a little composite work in the past, now
trying to find out more to start doing it again with
more serious intent.

When I was doing it before they had a Vacuum Pot,
basically fibreglass bucket with a lid connected to a
vac pump. I'm wondering - with the bubble problem,
couldn't you put your pot of resin in the Vac Pot and
get rid of the bubbles? Then if you were carefull with
the application you may not have too many appearing
in your work piece?

Cheers Maurie.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:51 AM   #125
SkunkWizard
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
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I've done some glue work myself in the garage, mostly on race car stuff.
I made these case guards from 15 plies of Kevlar 1 outside ply 8 harness carbon




the big projects are fun and can be a challenge









this one came out very light 20 lbs.



I have gone on the road with the teams fixing broken snowflakes. this is my work area back of the pit garage at LeMans

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Old 06-25-2015, 01:59 PM   #126
Andyvh1959
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Da frozen tundra eh? 1.5 mile west of Lambeau
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For simple pieces I came up this "mold-less" process:
1. I got the usual fibreglas kit from the local auto supplies store
2. Get perforated aluminum sheet (PAS) from a Home Depot, Lowes, etc
3. The PAS is easy to cut with heavy duty scissors or snips, cut the shape
4. PAS is easy to form by hand, curves, flanges, bends, etc
5. Plan the PAS shape, allow 1/8 up to 1/4 fibreglas on the finished piece
6. Cover one side of the PAS with good quality masking tape
7. Apply fibreglas/resin to the side without the masking tape
8. After it sets, remove the masking tape, apply glass/resin to the other side.

The masking tape was easy to remove from the underside after the resin had set, it didn't adhere to the masking tape. With one side done in fibreglas it was already rigid enough to handle laying the glass/resin on the other side.

When done, trim and sand, bondo if needed, and you have a composite fibreglas/aluminum panel made without a plug or mold. The inner layer of the composite is the "mold" in a sense. I made covers for the fairing pockets of a Hannigan fariing this way. In fact, a portion of the Hannigan fairing was damaged in a fire, it burned out the resin but left the fibreglas. I was able to use this composite method to rebuild that inside of the fairing. The cover and the fairing inside could be coated with pickup bed liner to create a very durable non-painted surface.

I plan to use this technique again to make a hugger fender for the rear of my 2007 BMW R1200RT. What is also cool, is you can rivet pieces together to form bigger more complex shapes, and you can also rivet mount brackets or supports, stay arms, to the PAS before you layer on the glass/resin. And, the aluminum core does provide a grounding path.
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:51 PM   #127
flemsmith
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
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Rebuilding some Wixom sidebags...

They're fiberglass, so pretty stout, here's a pix of one of them in the state I bought it (don't ask me how much I paid, it's embarrassing)...

My previous fiberglass experience is all patching holes, cracks, bad spots, I usually use a matt on the inside, and if it's a bracket mounting point, I have often riveted a small piece of aluminum and then glassed some matt over it.
so I have two questions on this piece. The first one relates to cracking damage in the (I guess) gel coat....Here's how the above piece looked when I removed the black paint, which is my second que...

There's obvious cracking damage that I need to deal with (the grey is just a primer coat)...I've never used gel coat, but like I say, I've done quite a few fiberglass repair pieces. After some rough sanding, can I just use the fiberglass resin to try to cover up the cracking damage in the gel coat? The inside fiberglass does not appear to be damaged. If not, I'm gonna need a pointer to the proper repair method, otherwise I'm gonna be quickly over my head... Second question, the black paint was not all that solidly adhered to the grey primer. I ended up just using a razor blader scraper to peel it off, and it came smoothly and willingly. Now I'll start the sanding process, but I'm inclined to think the grey primer is adhered well enough that I don't really need to get it all off, matter of fact, after the first fairly rough sanding, I thought I'd just start in with some glaze to patch the scratches and gaps in the grey primer. (Not talking about the major repair I'm showing above, just the general prep work for painting, which I'll farm out). Appreciate any inputs. Thanks in advance, roy
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