The Yamaha Super Tenere XT1200Z Big Thread

[GrahamD]

[edit] Just so that everything is the in the one spot....

There have been a few users experience the dreaded "hard start".

There is a particular set of things that have to be done to induce this.

Since I have never had this problem I was keen to see whether I could induce it by running through a few scenarios that have led to it...

This is a bit of a log to see whether I could nail down the important parts.

First day was just running through a few of the ideas that had been floating around. (sped up so it doesn't drag on too long)

20th Jan 2013


That was a complete fail as far as the hard start goes.

But often people talk about the bike being left for a few days after fiddling or washing.

Well after 2 1/2 days of sitting without the bike being touched and that includes not charging the battery...

23 Jan 2013.


Now it was cleared pretty easily by going for 1/2 throttle, Some go Wide open and it clears.

After the last video I gave the battery a good rest and a charge.

24 Jan 2013
Started fine. Starting to think it is a combination of a slightly flat battery, cold bike and being left after some short runs.

26 Jan 2013

Last hard tests...


Pretty clear how it happens, pretty clear how to clear it. Put it down to modern closed loop FI. Also note that after the ECU "thinks" the engine has fired , probably from the initial burst of engine acceleration, it turns the headlight on. If you want to save some battery life cycle the ignition again and the headlights will turn off again. No point burning 100W for no reason. It may be a part of the problem.

All of them are together in the "sticky thread" --> Click here <--

[William42]

Nice job GrahamD. Thanks.

[~TABASCO~]

That's just a little bottle jack under the skid plate... Just holding up the bike. Were working with Ohlins on a totally new 30mm cartridge kit for the Tenere. Should have the new forks back next week. Ill post some pictures and ride report with the new hardware.....

Originally Posted by Lambo

Why do you have that upside down plunger looking thing attached to the underside of your shifter?

[/QUOTE]

[~TABASCO~]

Graham,

May I ask, why don't you just hold the start button down one time until it starts... I notice you hit the button about ten times but it doesn't even sound as if the crank is making one revolution ?

It would seem to me that there is obviously a prime 'squirt' when someone turns the key on. I would also think that the injector pulse is probably a bit longer the first few revolutions, and probably has a "fueling sequence" as in 'pulse and duration' each time someone touches the starter button... This "sequence" is probably only initialized from something like 0-10% throttle opening.. But this "sequence" might be turned off or tricked if the throttle is held wide open.

I say this because I had a Tenere here in the shop last week that had something similar with a week battery. I held the starter down and it cranked slow, then tried again, put a charger on it for a few minutes and again. I put my nose at the rear muffler and smelled like raw fuel... After a few more minutes I held the throttle open all the way and it fired up. I did hold the button down until it started. It choked a bit and then ran rough for a few seconds... It sounded like it was kinda flooded....... It had that sound and feeling of a flooded engine.

With that being said, is it possible that these hard starting situation could be because of a semi-fuel injected flooding scenario ? If the bike gets the first prime, and then goes into its normal "starting fuel sequence" and doesn't start, the natural thing is to try again......... But that is just adding more and more fuel.....


I found out last year working with the PCV & AT that the Tenere has a cold start software package in the ECM.. It goes though a different starting / worm up procedure when cold VS when its worm... We could see this on the AT maps when I thought I was seeing something strange last winter.... There is defiantly a different fuel map "sequence" Etc in the cold VS wormer weather.. And its not just when the bike starts but runs a whole different fuel map. This is not added or aftermarket, this is stock. I'm sure its adding more fuel. But what we don't know is on start up it could be really extending the fuel duration or phasing. And also it could be resetting it self each time we hit the start button or turn the key on or off.. Try it, I bet you will smell lots of raw fuel in the muffler.


So, to recap, if its cold, and people hit the started several times I have a feeling, or my thoughts are this seems to be more of an 'over fueling' on start up sequence. It seems the only way to trick the computer is to quite possibly hold the throttle open to turn this fuel off. *** also, when you hold the throttle open you are NOT holding the butter flies open on the throttle bodies..*** These are all computer controlled by the ECM.. This is not cable operated. IMOP, This is a software issue, not a hardware problem. The old days you would be holding open the butter fly and alow in a ton of air to off set the extra fuel, more times than not it would fire up. On this bike its software and sensors, not cables and parts, per-se. We are not in control of this motor, the ECM is... Our riding experiance is a relationship with sensors and software.

These are just a few thoughts I had and wanted to throw on the table to try and help the crowd..... On my bike I touch the starter for less than one second and she has always just fired right up on a dime....

Originally Posted by GrahamD

Last hard tests...


Pretty clear how it happens, pretty clear how to clear it. Put it down to modern closed loop FI. Also note that after the ECU "thinks" the engine has fired , probably from the initial burst of engine acceleration, it turns the headlight on. If you want to save some battery life cycle the ignition again and the headlights will turn off again. No point burning 100W for no reason. It may be a part of the problem. Don't keep cranking without opening that throttle up.

All of them are together here

[avc8130]

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

That's just a little bottle jack under the skid plate... Just holding up the bike. Were working with Ohlins on a totally new 30mm cartridge kit for the Tenere. Should have the new forks back next week. Ill post some pictures and ride report with the new hardware.....

Jaxon,

Will the 30mm cartridge kit require special Ohlins springs?

ac

[~TABASCO~]

Originally Posted by avc8130

Jaxon,

Will the 30mm cartridge kit require special Ohlins springs?

ac

It comes with springs.. and everything is designed for each customer and there needs... There are ten sets that are made. We have deposits on 7-8 of those sets already. If you have any questions feel free to call me at the office or Email me anytime... Ill be happy to talk your ear off...

[GrahamD]

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

Graham,

May I ask, why don't you just hold the start button down one time until it starts... I notice you hit the button about ten times but it doesn't even sound as if the crank is making one revolution ?

You may

See the link at the bottom of that post. I spent a day trying to figure out how to induce a hard start by going through all the popular theories on the interwebs. You should watch all three video's. It's just that I never had the problem and there is not much point speculating about it until it can be reliably re-produced. Once that happens then you can work on reliably fixing the condition. So now I know what to watch for and what to do if it happens.

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

It would seem to me that there is obviously a prime 'squirt' when someone turns the key on.

Nope there isn't I don't think. I can turn that key as many times as I like and it has no effect. See video 1.

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

I would also think that the injector pulse is probably a bit longer the first few revolutions, and probably has a "fueling sequence" as in 'pulse and duration' each time someone touches the starter button.....

With that being said, is it possible that these hard starting situation could be because of a semi-fuel injected flooding scenario ?

With that being said, is it possible that these hard starting situation could be because of a semi-fuel injected flooding scenario ? If the bike gets the first prime, and then goes into its normal "starting fuel sequence" and doesn't start, the natural thing is to try again......... But that is just adding more and more fuel.....

I found out last year working with the PCV & AT that the Tenere has a cold start software package in the ECM.. It goes though a different starting / worm up procedure when cold VS when its worm... We could see this on the AT maps when I thought I was seeing something strange last winter.... There is defiantly a different fuel map "sequence" Etc in the cold VS wormer weather.. And its not just when the bike starts but runs a whole different fuel map. This is not added or aftermarket, this is stock. I'm sure its adding more fuel. But what we don't know is on start up it could be really extending the fuel duration or phasing. And also it could be resetting it self each time we hit the start button or turn the key on or off.. Try it, I bet you will smell lots of raw fuel in the muffler.


So, to recap, if its cold, and people hit the started several times I have a feeling, or my thoughts are this seems to be more of an 'over fueling' on start up sequence. It seems the only way to trick the computer is to quite possibly hold the throttle open to turn this fuel off. *** also, when you hold the throttle open you are NOT holding the butter flies open on the throttle bodies..*** These are all computer controlled by the ECM.. This is not cable operated. IMOP, This is a software issue, not a hardware problem. The old days you would be holding open the butter fly and alow in a ton of air to off set the extra fuel, more times than not it would fire up. On this bike its software and sensors, not cables and parts, per-se. We are not in control of this motor, the ECM is... Our riding experiance is a relationship with sensors and software.

These are just a few thoughts I had and wanted to throw on the table to try and help the crowd..... On my bike I touch the starter for less than one second and she has always just fired right up on a dime....

Pretty well sums it up.

Anyway go and watch the three viseo's. It should validate what you said. I pretty much agree. The best thing about videos is you can watch them over and over and notice things you missed, like when the headlight actually comes on.

[avc8130]

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

It comes with springs.. and everything is designed for each customer and there needs... There are ten sets that are made. We have deposits on 7-8 of those sets already. If you have any questions feel free to call me at the office or Email me anytime... Ill be happy to talk your ear off...

I figured it would have to. 30mm pistons will require larger diameter cartridges. Larger diameter cartridges, I figured, would lead to springs with a larger ID.

I'm excited to hear the reviews. I'm sure they will rock.

ac

[~TABASCO~]

Originally Posted by avc8130

I figured it would have to. 30mm pistons will require larger diameter cartridges. Larger diameter cartridges, I figured, would lead to springs with a larger ID.

I'm excited to hear the reviews. I'm sure they will rock.

ac

It ended up being a lot of custom work.. There where several parts that had to be custom machined and other parts that had to be flown in from Sweden and then machined over here. I have a good feeling it will be worth it !!!
The forks are out for DLC right now....

[avc8130]

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

It ended up being a lot of custom work.. There where several parts that had to be custom machined and other parts that had to be flown in from Sweden and then machined over here. I have a good feeling it will be worth it !!!
The forks are out for DLC right now....

I'm surprised they had such issues. The forks are very standard internals, just longer than most sport bike.

The "Diamond Like Carbon" will look awesome. You'll have to take very accurate set of static sag measurements to see if they really do result in less stiction.

ac

[snakebitten]

Originally Posted by avc8130

I'm surprised they had such issues. The forks are very standard internals, just longer than most sport bike.

The "Diamond Like Carbon" will look awesome. You'll have to take very accurate set of static sag measurements to see if they really do result in less stiction.

ac

I think I'm repeating Jaxon, (heard it somewhere) but as you say avc8130, they are looooonger. And I think the assumption by Ohlins USA was they would be able to take a rod in inventory and cut it down and rethread it for this bike. But nothing was long enough, thus requiring Ohlins Europe to make them up. Also, something about the caps. Again, nothing in inventory could be used.

As for DLC coating, i supposed their is SOME truth to the claims, but my goodness, I can't imagine that I could remotely feel it in my seat of the pants. This is no ultra light road racer leaned over on billiard flat racetrack. :) It's a big fat beast with a big fat old man and his tiny little wife (i'm not stupid) running down gravel roads looking for a good place for mexican food.

But I want it. Cuz it's something to show the GS dudes. :)

[eemsreno]

Originally Posted by snakebitten

I think I'm repeating Jaxon, (heard it somewhere) but as you say avc8130, they are looooonger. And I think the assumption by Ohlins USA was they would be able to take a rod in inventory and cut it down and rethread it for this bike. But nothing was long enough, thus requiring Ohlins Europe to make them up. Also, something about the caps. Again, nothing in inventory could be used.

As for DLC coating, i supposed their is SOME truth to the claims, but my goodness, I can't imagine that I could remotely feel it in my seat of the pants. This is no ultra light road racer leaned over on billiard flat racetrack. :) It's a big fat beast with a big fat old man and his tiny little wife ............ > (i'm not stupid)<........... running down gravel roads looking for a good place for mexican food.

But I want it. Cuz it's something to show the GS dudes. :)

I read this to my wife and she about died laughing.

[~TABASCO~]

Like Snake said... There where parts they thought they could pull of the shelf and it basically happened that after they tore down the forks nothing would work.. The tubes are longer, different machining in the cartridge tubes, different top caps, Etc.. Etc.... So its taken a bit longer that what we all thought.. They do fantastic work so im not really worried about that, I just want to ride the darn bike again... LOL On the plus side, there are basically no off the shelf parts, they are all 'custom' made for the Tenere...

The DLC and hard coat on top is a bit over kill for this application. I think about it this way, this new Ohlins cartridge has a lot to offer in adjust ability. Much more than stock could ever hope for. A lot of this adjust ability is fine tuning. Im not ever planing on getting rid of this bike, so for the long term performance I chose the DLC. At the speeds I travel off road and high way, I want to take full advantage of every bit of the sophistication the Ohlins has to offer. Its definitely a proven mod on forks with super cross and road racing. Im really excited to be working with Ohlins and testing and riding these new forks... Full report very soon.. And the rear to match the front

[avc8130]

Originally Posted by ~TABASCO~

Like Snake said... There where parts they thought they could pull of the shelf and it basically happened that after they tore down the forks nothing would work.. The tubes are longer, different machining in the cartridge tubes, different top caps, Etc.. Etc.... So its taken a bit longer that what we all thought.. They do fantastic work so im not really worried about that, I just want to ride the darn bike again... LOL On the plus side, there are basically no off the shelf parts, they are all 'custom' made for the Tenere...

The DLC and hard coat on top is a bit over kill for this application. I think about it this way, this new Ohlins cartridge has a lot to offer in adjust ability. Much more than stock could ever hope for. A lot of this adjust ability is fine tuning. Im not ever planing on getting rid of this bike, so for the long term performance I chose the DLC. At the speeds I travel off road and high way, I want to take full advantage of every bit of the sophistication the Ohlins has to offer. Its definitely a proven mod on forks with super cross and road racing. Im really excited to be working with Ohlins and testing and riding these new forks... Full report very soon.. And the rear to match the front

Jaxon,

In what way will the cartridge be more adjustable than the stock forks? Will there be external high speed adjustments?

I completely agree with your logic on the coatings. Might as well at this point.

Will the Ohlins cartridge be based on the TTX with Nitrogen?

ac

[DaFoole]

Originally Posted by snakebitten

As for DLC coating, i supposed their is SOME truth to the claims, but my goodness, I can't imagine that I could remotely feel it in my seat of the pants. This is no ultra light road racer leaned over on billiard flat racetrack. :) It's a big fat beast with a big fat old man and his tiny little wife (i'm not stupid) running down gravel roads looking for a good place for mexican food.

But I want it. Cuz it's something to show the GS dudes. :)