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Old 11-18-2012, 07:55 PM   #31
woodly1069 OP
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Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills!
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Bmwhacker, I never thought to pull the front cover before I had this latest issue and was doing some reading on the subject when I found something relating to watching the points arc on a good running bike in a dark garage, man was that an eye opener! Kinda Iike watching plugs fire while laying out on the jugs, unless you know what they look like when they are working normally you would never know the difference if there was an issue...really cool to know the very subtle differences!
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:36 AM   #32
Bgarceau
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Dynatek DBR-1 - no spark - Instructions letting me down

Hello everyone,

I am relatively new to this forum and have gotten quite a bit of help, so thanks to everyone who contributes.

I have a 1976 R90/6 (mfg 10/1975). I used to own a 1975 R90. I restored that one and sold it about 10 yrs ago. The '76 is new to me. I would not say that I am restoring it, but rather since I just bought it I am taking advantage of the down season to do a very complete maintenance, cleaning, replacing parts where needed and improving where is makes sense.

One such improvement is to add a points booster. At the same time that I am adding this, I had just prior also replaced the points and condenser. I just added a Dynatek DBR-1 points booster today, and although everything appears to me to be setup correctly, the bike is not running.

I have done lots of web searching of topics covering this device and there's not much really. This particular thread seems to be the closest in nature. I followed the instructions as best as I can but there is no spark. Removing the wiring from the booster and replacing the original connections gets the spark occurring again.

Here are the instructions I received with the device. In the image with the instructions I also show the strange wire that was included that has some kind of component(s) inside its plastic housing. I have no idea what to do with this as it is not mentioned at all in the instructions.



I believe instruction #5, really meant "ignition condenser", not coil, and so I connected the wires as in the image below.



Then for instruction #7, I connected the red wire to this point on the left side coil. I determined the connection point after following the wires on a (Hanes) schematic from the ignition to the coil, seeing that wire from the ignition to the coil goes to one coil and then there is a crossover to the other coil (in series).



The black ground wire for the booster is connected behind one of the diode board mount screws, against the engine case.

I am hoping that a few of you may have completed the installation successfully and can tell me where I am going wrong or misunderstanding the instructions.

Thanks.

Bg
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:03 AM   #33
Bill Harris
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You've interpreted the instructions wrong:

1. BLACK goes to a ground. Engine case is best, but good frame connection can be used.
2. Disconnect the (factory Black) points wire from coil and plug BLUE wire in it's place.
3. Connect WHITE wire to the (factory Black) points wire removed in previous step.
4. RED goes to coil terminal that has +12v when ignition switch is turned on (has factory Green wire)

--Bill
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:28 PM   #34
Bgarceau
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Thanks Bill,

I rewired as you described/clarified. There is still no spark, so I may have fried the booster or I suppose the device was bad. I pulled everything out and returned the wiring to its stock configuration. It runs fine.

Appreciate the assistance.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:55 AM   #35
Bgarceau
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New DBR-1, now working!

I suspected that the unit that I bought on eBay was faulty and so I bought another from what appeared to be a legitimate source. I installed the new unit today and the bike has spark. So I will attempt to return the faulty unit.

Here are a few pictures of the installation, with numbered connections that correspond with the numbered instructions (image of instruction sheet in one of my prior posts).

Closeup of the mounting location and orientation.



And the reverse. This is shown because the pipe band that is included needs to pass under the master cylinder with no part of it interfering The orientation shown allows for that.



Here are the electrical connections for steps 3, 5, and 6.



...and, for step 7 (a little difficult to see but you get the idea).



Finally, the completed installation.

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Old 01-26-2013, 11:15 AM   #36
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bgarceau-
I'd be a little paranoid about tank chafing with that booster mounting. See my post #28 above. You might want to gob some grease on the outboard edge of the booster, then mount your tank, then remove the tank and examine whether or not you've got grease on the underside of the tank. You don't want to have the booster wearing a hole in your tank.....safety issue for sure. As noted in #28 above, I mounted a similarly sized DYNA ignition module on top of the flat voltage regulator and took a couple extra precautions against chafing. What happens statically is not necessarily what's happening while out on the road.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:53 PM   #37
Stan_R80/7
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Testing the DBR-1 for clearance with the fuel tank is a very good idea. I am about to install a DBR-1 myself. However, I plan to put my ground (step #3) with all the other brown ground wires (shown in step #7). Neatness helps when installing electrical wiring and keeping the ground wires in a common location is good practice.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:35 PM   #38
Bgarceau
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horsehockey View Post
bgarceau-
I'd be a little paranoid about tank chafing with that booster mounting. See my post #28 above. You might want to gob some grease on the outboard edge of the booster, then mount your tank, then remove the tank and examine whether or not you've got grease on the underside of the tank. You don't want to have the booster wearing a hole in your tank.....safety issue for sure. As noted in #28 above, I mounted a similarly sized DYNA ignition module on top of the flat voltage regulator and took a couple extra precautions against chafing. What happens statically is not necessarily what's happening while out on the road.
Horse/Stan, thanks for the info. I refitted the tank and the booster was in fact a bit too far back on the frame. I un-tightened and slid everything forward and using Horse' grease trick I found that this now leaves clearance. I needed to reroute the clamp strap thru the slot in the relay mount. Some kind of rubber patch seems appropriate as well.


Bgarceau screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 03:23 AM Reason: Update after tank fitting...
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