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Old 01-26-2013, 10:30 AM   #121
Voltaire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in NZ View Post
i found spectro oil solved the box issues.
Steve, can you expand on that? anyting to make a beemer box more smooth interests me. I usually just bung old EP 90 in there.....
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:58 AM   #122
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Originally Posted by cooneyr View Post
Other thing to worry about is pace - enough so can maintain balance, not too much to stall or come to a stop if you hit a sizeable rock or so that you get downed by your bow wave. Mid revs first gear normally is about right.

Your welcome to come practice. Plenty of places down here to play ;)

Cheers R
Yes, I think really struggle with the right pace. I'll need to find someone who can dig a ditch and fill it with rocks and water, never mind the current. That would be a good practice. I think they do that at those fancy Enduro courses overseas.

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Old 01-26-2013, 11:02 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Have you had a look at your pushrod piston thing? I have always had a hard time changing between 1st & 2nd or finding neutral when hot. I have found it is the same on both gboxes. I thought I had cracked it when I gave the piston a good sanding.
It seemed to do the job for a while however noticed it's still quite hard.
That's my next job. I have the old metal version in there. Does anyone know if they made different strength clutch springs for the various bikes? Because my clutch is not original.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:18 AM   #124
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For airheads there are two pressure plates, a std one and heavy duty one, The R65 was 'catching' on changes so will report back next week on if its better, I pulled out the clutch pushrod assembly, cleaned it, greased it. the roller bearing on the pivot arm was seized, so that should be better now.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:46 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
For airheads there are two pressure plates, a std one and heavy duty one, The R65 was 'catching' on changes so will report back next week on if its better, I pulled out the clutch pushrod assembly, cleaned it, greased it. the roller bearing on the pivot arm was seized, so that should be better now.
I've put up with this for several years and will be kicking myself, if it's an easy fix. But hey, I'll take it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:03 PM   #126
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2 of my BMWs having had horrible gearboxs. Hard to change gears, find neutral etc.

put Spectro oil in the gearbox and huge transformation. i think Spectro used to supply BMW with the branded oil they sold.

unsure if they still do.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:51 PM   #127
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I found these relays on the the Supercheap website, but haven't got a clue which one would work.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:56 PM   #128
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I found these relays on the the Supercheap website, but haven't got a clue which one would work.
What do you want that replay to do? That relay might work for accessories like lights & horn, where you need a feed directly from the battery.

LED flasher here. But that wont work with your switches or wiring.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:07 PM   #129
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What do you want that replay to do?
I was hoping that for this sort of money the relay would know what to do. Thanks, now I know what to get. It just seems like less of a hassle to buy the proper flasher, than to piss about with resistors.

With the flasher I will be able to change the rear indicators as well. I've never like them, they get knocked off, or vibrate loose by themselves. They also make Basil look porkier than he really is. If Steve B would finally send me my LED tail light, I'd be almost set.

Now all I'll need is for someone to come up with a plug and play LED headlight.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:31 PM   #130
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Apparently, all I need to do is to connect the two point where the red line is.



I had no idea what I was looking at. It's bloody big.



The search continues....
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Kokopelli screwed with this post 01-26-2013 at 05:48 PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:58 PM   #131
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The forks were great, taking some big hits without problems. The hardest bit I did would have been going up the Carrick Town track, at the end of a long day. Because of the exposed rock, it had potential for pain and breakage. We had sections of loose crushed rock to cross and the Lammermoors were rutted and wet in places, but it was great fun going though there.

Apart from the having a really heavy clutch, the R80 went well. Very comfortable and surprisingly agile. On gravel it will keep up easily and the on more technical sections it will get through. Water crossings were terrible. I just hate stalling in deep water. But I just don't have all that much experience with the deeper ones. I like short sharp and fast :-).
Have you fitted a new clutch cable. My clutch used to be heavy, ( I rode another Basic and couldn't believe hoe light the clutch was) and even though the cable appeared ok and was lubbed, I put a new one in. What a difference. It is lighter pull than my DR
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:46 PM   #132
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Have you fitted a new clutch cable. My clutch used to be heavy, ( I rode another Basic and couldn't believe hoe light the clutch was) and even though the cable appeared ok and was lubbed, I put a new one in. What a difference. It is lighter pull than my DR
Voltaire was just here a moment ago. We unhooked the cable and you could well be right. I've never lubed the cable, because I thought they were teflon coated and should not be lubed. Teflon can swell up when in contact with oil.

I'll order a new cable and then I'll know.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:26 PM   #133
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I couldn't find a sheepish grin icon, so this one must do. After Voltaire left, I went and lubed the cable with fork oil. It's all I had. It made a huge difference. I can still feel and hear a bit of roughness, so I am guessing that the old cable has done some damage inside the sleeve. I've just ordered a new cable from Motoworks. Do new cables have to be lubed?

The old cable did not last long in this case, but I never lubed it, because I read somewhere that BMW cables were teflon coated and did not react kindly to lube. Oh well, at least I'll have developed some grip strength in my left hand.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:18 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
I couldn't find a sheepish grin icon, so this one must do. After Voltaire left, I went and lubed the cable with fork oil. It's all I had. It made a huge difference. I can still feel and hear a bit of roughness, so I am guessing that the old cable has done some damage inside the sleeve. I've just ordered a new cable from Motoworks. Do new cables have to be lubed?

The old cable did not last long in this case, but I never lubed it, because I read somewhere that BMW cables were teflon coated and did not react kindly to lube. Oh well, at least I'll have developed some grip strength in my left hand.
I don't lube for the same reason. BUT you can get teflon based lube.

Another thought - is it BMW or Venhill?
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:42 PM   #135
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I don't lube for the same reason. BUT you can get teflon based lube.

Another thought - is it BMW or Venhill?
The cable came from motoworks.
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