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Old 12-06-2012, 05:51 PM   #151
mneblett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Căta View Post
You don't have to drill anything out. Just punch the old shaft out of the pulley, using something < 5mm in diameter. The brass on the spindle is way softer then the pulley, so you won't damage anything ;)

Dan.
Thanks, Dan -- I've whacked pretty good with no movement, so I was checking in before I really start going after it.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:49 PM   #152
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Well, after more solid shots to the shaft without it budging a micron, I put the shaft in my drill press and drilled a hole just a bit smaller than the shaft across the flat. I went in about 3/4", both to remove shaft metal to loosen the pulley's grip, and to make room for a small Phillips screwdriver to be inserted and held straight.

Between the reduction in the compression in the shaft at the pulley from the hole, and the focused, straight shots delivered via the screwdriver, the shaft came out with minimal effort -- 2 or 3 light hits on the screwdriver and it was out.

The rest of the work on the right throttle body went fine, and I end the night with a like-new-feeling TB. Left TB tomorrow evening!

Thanks again, Dan -- great kit. I'll likely be ordering another soon for another pair of TB's I have lying around.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:19 PM   #153
mneblett
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Last post, with one hint.

Left throttle body done, in 1/3 the time of the right TB.

One suggestion when doing the left TB: Measure the resistance across pins 1 and 4 of the throttle position sensor before disassembly with a digital ohmmeter. When you reassemble the TB, you can use the measured resistance as a target for adjusting the TPS.

In my case, my DVM showed 0.962 kOhm, and I was able to get it back to 0.964 kOhm -- so at least I know I'm in the right ballpark. .964 was as close as I could get after several tries -- the amount of motion to change the resistance +/- .01 kOhm is in the sub-thousandths range -- very sensitive, and changes as you tighten down the two T20 Torx screws. After a while you get a feel for how far off to move the TPS with the screws loose to end up at the right place once tightened.
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:11 PM   #154
Dan Căta OP
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But you do have to re-adjust the TPS after you are doing the L/H side. You can either use a GS911 diagnose unit (if you have one), or the tutorial in the HoW, where you set the TPS to have voltage across pin 1 and 4 of .37V.

As a reminder, for 1150 bikes, you have to re-teach the motronic the TPS position. Remove fuse #5(as you sit on the bike, from left side to right, 5th fuse), ignition on, ignition off, put back fuse #5, ignition on, twist the throttle 3 times, start the bike. This is not needed for 1100 users, except r1100s, which is actually an 1150 engine.

In case you are trying to set the TPS to the correct voltage using a GS911 unit on a 1100 bike that has motronic version 2.2, you might not succeed from the first try. That is because the TPS is very sensitive and you end putting it to let's say 1V(if you were to measure the voltage using a DVM). Because of that, the diagnose unit will not work in setting the TPS.

What I do is to set it using the DVM, and then adjust(if needed), using the GS911. Go wide open throttle a few times and let it snap in order to get consistent readings and you are good to go.

Also, a thing that I found out it helps in setting the TPS is to screw in the 2 small screws gently, until I can feel they touch the TPS and then, adjust the TPS by slightly tapping it. This way, when I screw in the allen screws, the voltage reading does not modify.

Hope it helps.

Dan.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:28 AM   #155
mneblett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Căta View Post
But you do have to re-adjust the TPS after you are doing the L/H side. You can either use a GS911 diagnose unit (if you have one), or the tutorial in the HoW, where you set the TPS to have voltage across pin 1 and 4 of .37V.
Thanks, Dan -- I absolutely will be checking/adjusting voltage; the above notes are intended to help folks ensure they are at least "in the ballpark" when they bolt the TB back in place.
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:53 AM   #156
Aaci0r
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Tb

Hey Dan. I was thinkink what's happened with my 1150 and... Yeah. That's my first bike from 21 century. It's not so easy but this bike running ;-). Ok. I need your repair kit. Is there possibility to get one? With manual instruktion how to do it offcourse. And whats the price is now. Thx.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:12 AM   #157
Dan Căta OP
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Originally Posted by Aaci0r View Post
Hey Dan. I was thinkink what's happened with my 1150 and... Yeah. That's my first bike from 21 century. It's not so easy but this bike running ;-). Ok. I need your repair kit. Is there possibility to get one? With manual instruktion how to do it offcourse. And whats the price is now. Thx.
I'll sned you a PM on this.

Thanks,
Dan Cata
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:18 AM   #158
arrcrussell
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Rebuild completed!

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Rich
Dan, finally set the bike up for winter maintenance and completed the rebuild. All went well, per your instructions. No more clickety-clack!! I used a tap to extract the old bushings - a word of caution to others - don't go too far into the bushing and extend into the TB - I did and had to do a little clean up. Fortunately only on one bushing and very minor filing to get the shaft to return to the closed position without any resistance. Great product - thanks for putting it together! Rich
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:40 AM   #159
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Nice job, glad you got it sorted ;)

Dan.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:52 PM   #160
miro13mc
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Question to Dan Cata.

Hi Dan. I've got your the throttle body repair kit for my BMW R 1150 GSA, 2004.
I have the same situation as the user "LandLocked" (on the 6 th page) and according to this, the same question for you. Want to ask you, for what are those 4 small M3 screws with lock nuts, and those 2 small O-rings in your kit?
Can you please forward me the same mail as you send to user "LandLocked" ?
My e-mail is: mirolisjak@gmail.com
Thank you in advance.
Greetings from Croatia!
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:13 PM   #161
Dan Căta OP
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Originally Posted by miro13mc View Post
Hi Dan. I've got your the throttle body repair kit for my BMW R 1150 GSA, 2004.
I have the same situation as the user "LandLocked" (on the 6 th page) and according to this, the same question for you. Want to ask you, for what are those 4 small M3 screws with lock nuts, and those 2 small O-rings in your kit?
Can you please forward me the same mail as you send to user "LandLocked" ?
My e-mail is: mirolisjak@gmail.com
Thank you in advance.
Greetings from Croatia!
The 4 M3 screws are for securing the butterfly plate to the spindle. After screwing them in, put the M3 nuts on the other end. Last step is to punch the threaded end of the M3 screws in a "+" pattern, in order to prevent accidentally fallen of the nuts in the engine. I doubt that this will ever happen, but it is just a safety measure. Also, when punching, remember to put something to hold back on the screw, otherwise the shaft might bend!

The 2 small o-rings are for replacing the ones on your BBS (idle brass screws) in case they are worn.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask me.

Thanks,
Dan.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:07 AM   #162
miro13mc
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Work finished!

Re-hauling on my GSA, 2004 finished. The kit is really perfect, and everything fits like it suppose to be.
I have one more question for you Dan:
Left throttle body does not have the thin washer plate which comes from the engine side-opposite the TPS. It is only one washer on the left TB-thick one which goes after c-clip. Am I right?
But I didn't find the thin washer plate on the right throttle body as well. Only the thick one, which comes from the side opposite the pulley. Is that ok, or someone who has work on the right TB before me, forgot to put the thin washer before installing the pulley on the shaft?
I'm little bit confused, because your photos show that on the right TB should be 2 washer plates.
Please for help.
Thank you in advance.
Miro
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:06 PM   #163
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Please ignore the washer in my pictorial. I was using there another set of TB's, from another bike, from another year. There are different mountings between the same bike model and different years. If you put in what was initially was in minus my kit, and there are no left overs, you are good to go

Dan.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:35 PM   #164
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Please ignore the washer in my pictorial. I was using there another set of TB's, from another bike, from another year. There are different mountings between the same bike model and different years. If you put in what was initially was in minus my kit, and there are no left overs, you are good to go

Dan.
Thank you very much for your help Dan...
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:19 AM   #165
Dan Căta OP
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Thank you very much for your help Dan...
Sure, no problem.

Whenever someone has a problem or a question, please let me know. The important thing is to get the job well done in the first place ;)

Dan.
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